Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
|
|
eeyonkee
If I remember right Long's rt. crack had a chockstone wedged deep near the start, but my memory or lack of could be all wrong. I was surprised to hear how difficult it is now compared to when I did it.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
|
|
Penis enlargement?! Jesus Roy, Bob can hardly walk now? Oh wait, maybe that's cause his knees suck. That's why we don't worry about noogies from Bob, he can't catch anybody. But if he ever does, we are in trouble!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
I thought sure I'd seen a reference to flake removal from Long's
Crack. Thought it must have been in the Hardest Woodson Offwidths
thread. Thought it must have been either Klimmer or Mt Woodson
Guide who posted it. Thought I read that a come-along was used
to remove the flake/chockstone which upped the difficulty.
I also thought it would be easy to find that post.
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
|
|
Ok, everyone here is some more . . .
Bolton on Alcoa
Tom "Too Strong" Donelly getting to the rail
Is this why Bolton has a hernia? The ol Bowline on a coil. I hear he can hang that way for hours no problem . . .
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
Re: Hardest Woodson Offwidths Mar 8, 2006, 06:18pm PST
Author:
mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
From: San Diego
a come-along was used to pull a big flake out of the bottom of right longs in the 80's, making it 11+ and as hard those others.
Starts with a hand stack, go inverted, walk the feet up about 5 feet, and turn back around. way physical way technical
By Gum, I found it. May be senile, but at least I'm not...
uhh...more Advil, that's it!
|
|
mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
|
|
My memory is shot and I can't trust it anymore. Lindner told me that (I think), but someone else (who I think was envoled) just told me a month ago they only pulled on it, or it fell out when they stared at it or something.
Undertow must be the hardest. I've never looked at Vise Principals Office but BVB will chime in and say "dammit, for the last time, Vise Principals Office is fingers to Fists, it's not a offwidth. Then the 11+'s, Mother Superior, Greg's, Right Long's, 13, and 2 more unconfirmed ones I've done (one good and one not so good quality). The low quality one is one of about 100 sharp, aquward, myserable flares made by 2 boulders up against each other. It's right on the road to the right of Rock the Boat between Rock the Boat and the boulder behind it. I should get a couple pictures of the good one because you hang inverted 5+' off the ground thinking about how bad falling is going to f up your head. I've heard of R Longs being done straight in so this new one might be the only one that requires inverting. Theres a couple horizonals between 2 boulder I haven't tried, think they will be V4ish (12-), Leventhal?
There's a classic 5.10 boulder problem OW on the N side of Chimney rock (S from tower1) I never hear anyone talk about, really good.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
ok scuffy, no need to bust my balls because i was too lazy to find a past post on Supertopo. Just makin' conversation is all. Thanks mtwoodsonguide
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
|
|
Mt.Woodsonguide,
I recall you said you are working on a guide exclusively to Woodson. How far out do you think that project is from publishing? You have certainly got a lot of history on Woodson from many theads over the last few years here at ST :-))
Not to mention some great images that people have posted up. Hopefully, many would be more than willing to work with you in submitting images to such a guide.
The bible to Woodson must be written!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Yeah Scuffy, lay off! Lookin for trouble?. Hey Skuffy, I liked your "toast to the slandered", did you think all of that funny stuff up while you we're waiting for the "next available flight?" Thanks mtwoodsonguide, no thanks at all to Scuffy b.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 11:55pm PT
|
yes goddammit, there are NO ow moves on vp's office. it starts with wide flared technical fist in a double-overhanging dihedral, and gradually narrows to extremely pumping thin hands.
the whole thing is overhanging; the first 15' (fist) is about as steep as the start of mother superior; maybe just a tad steeper. actually, closer to a roof.
woodson 5.11c my ass. i barely tr'd it at a time when i could run lap after lap after lap on lie detector. more like woodson 512c.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
BVB: 10B on the outside you pussy.....
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
|
|
Hey Phantom X,
What do I have to do to get Agent 13 to post up those photos I know she has? Ok, if begging on my hands and knees is required, then gosh-darn-it that's exacly what I'm doing right now! If she could only see me. It's pathetic really, but I'm on my hands and knees right this moment, and it hurts! Gosh dang-it, it's a concrete floor for crying out loud!
Perhaps she needs more advice? Inquirying minds want to know. Perhaps you can inspire her?
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
Sorry, that post of mine was meant to be critical of ME, not
eeyonkee. I was trying to say that even though I knew it was there and should be easy to find, I failed, read right past it.
Took another try, found it, tried to point out MY failings...
It's about ME, isn't it? Greg's not hardly old enough to be
accused of being senile, anyhow.
I like mtwoodsonguide's revisionist account better, as well.
Some very intense staring was required to rid the crack of a
pesky chockstone...it is now restored to its rightful state of
full-on bitchin'ness...
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
Phantom X
I didn't think up any of that stuff while waiting for the "next
available flight." At that time I was MIRED in the PAST (very
recent past). For days I could barely think of anything except
that magical day.
Stone the Crows!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
XX By God, I think I've done it! Now lets see if I can repeat the process. Looks like I need to edit size. Please get off your knees, everyone knows that is poor climbing form unless your flopping over an awkward mantle. Thanks to Klimmer and Bee Hay for the help.
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
|
|
Good job Phantom X, now show Agent 13 !! ;-))
(Uh, oh. Now we are in for it. Phantom X and Agent 13 know how to post pictures to ST. People are running for cover . . . lol)
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
|
Re: Right Longs Crack. The flake at the base that you used to start from was removed some years back (Im wracking my brain for who the miscreant was, but the altzheimers is winning on this one), and its apparently harder from off the turf.
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
May 14, 2007 - 03:20am PT
|
mtwoodsonguide - u think that squeeze on chimney rock is 5.10!? I feel more inconsequential than ever, i thought it was hard 11. Do I hear right that you are putting together a guide to the hill? I have records of obscure, unnecessary and approbate problems dating back to 82 and will be happy to fork that info over if ya want it. 49th street, the terminator, the heinous potato, friendly fire, stickmen, all over fred, christ on crutches, the missing link, wild turkey, nothing to fear, the checkered demon, summertime blues, el guapo, alien nation, rough boys, substance abuse, the joker, mean streak, I spy, man from uncle... If you havent heard of em look me up, im in the phone book.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2007 - 11:57am PT
|
i thought that christ on crutches was actually a pretty good problem. a bit high, a bit scary, 5.11, questionable landing, tucked away in an obscure thicket of chapparal way way down by sickle crack. a woodson classic with all the trimmings.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!