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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 24, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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Muir Trail. Badass. Never catch me on the sharp end up there.
And for those of you who want to keep whining, in case you missed it the first time:
Oh... All that Alaska sh#t? I did the eighth ascent of Foraker and soloed the North Face of Les Courtes.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Sep 24, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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The FA rule has been around and well understood long before we started climbing. The Snake Dike and the Dike Route were modified only with the assent of the first ascent parties and those occurred in the middle 1960s. No one to my knowledge has every added a bolt to Coonyard, even though it is very runout. Most other routes on Glacier Point Apron follow the same style.Italic Text
Conyard was my first non-crack lead. Wow, the 80s are along time ago.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Chim-Chim
climber
Sep 24, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Where's Hedge been?
He's back with that goat
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stormeh
climber
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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To Hedge's point...why should we stop at runout slab climbs? What about boulder problems that can't be climbed safely by all due to ground fall potential? Boulders, especially highballs, should be bolted sport-wise so that no one is left out on potential climbs to do at their desired level of safety.
We wouldn't want to risk a broken ankle on Midnight Lightning right? No one should be forced to wrestle with a potential groundfall. If we bolt it, every 3 feet lets say, people can safely lead Midnight Lightning and those that want to boulder it can ignore the bolts.
No objections from Hedge on this idea, I presume.
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stormeh
climber
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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"What about boulder problems that can't be climbed safely by all due to ground fall potential? Boulders, especially highballs, should be bolted sport-wise so that no one is left out on potential climbs to do at their desired level of safety."
Crash pads? Ever heard of them?
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Every person I have ever known to break an ankle bouldering has done so above crash pads. Crash pads are as adequate at protecting boulders as runout bolts are at protecting slab climbs. How can climbers accept this level of risk? What if I wanted to safely climb a 20 foot boulder problem? Bolts are the only acceptable way to protect this style of climbing, and I am certainly entitled to climb any piece of rock within my technical ability in a safe manner.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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...and I am certainly entitled to climb any piece of rock within my technical ability in a safe manner.
Man. The sarcasm is ankle deep in here! My wing tips are getting soggy.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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Get ready .....
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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Take a vacation Joe.
You're losing it again.
And it's not about this thread either.
Just you period.
Have a martini and relax, watch some waves at the beach with nice girl.
It's not so hard.
You can do it.
We know you can .....
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:04am PT
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Do goats like the beach?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Joe, I gots to ask.. why do you have such disdain for children? Your last word whenever you are overmatched is something about children, or a child, or something about little ones. It's an odd quirk to have, and is seemingly pretty deep rooted. Just an observation...
Since you strategically missed it previously Joe, I'll ask again. What is with the kid thing? Odd fixation? Compulsion?
Werner is on to something. Your disingenuous freak show needs a vacation. buh-bye.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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That goat manipulates you? Maybe trade him in for a nanny?
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Taken less than two weeks ago... Nope. None of us have ever raised kids.
Hedge... What the Duck said.
About 500 posts upthread: I'm out. and
Ok now I'm out,
it's like reality isn't even there for them anymore...
Ever question your own motives, Hedge Dawg? It doesn't seem like introspection is your long suit, pumpkin. How come you keep coming back for more? Because we're an attractive nuisance?
(You should really quit when you're behind. Or is it your?)
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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But the goats behind
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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^^^^^ Add about 11.5 years and you might be close.
You're entirely welcome. We aim to tease.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:37am PT
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We're all products of our upbringing
You are glaring proof of this. I'd like to have a long talk with your parents.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Hedge I feel sorry for your kids
"And the possible removal of any "Retro-Bolts" should be encouraged."
I agree
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stormeh
climber
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Sep 25, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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Hedge is getting downright mean with this posts. Someone must have hit a nerve.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 25, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Well, hell, Joe. First, we have old farts - or frauds, posers, fakers and scoundrels to use your terms - doing run out routes several grades below their max on the boulders. Next, these frauds hide behind tradition and the FAs themselves have also said in plain terms that they own the route. Forty years later, for various reasons, all valid, a new generation of improved climbers, unfettered from tradition, having cast off all vestisages of macho, chest pounding and elitism, declaring in plain English that tradition is now null and void because they say so, that nobody own the rock, except maybe them, right now, that some of the old routes need improving to make them fair to those not wanting to put too much skin into the game. It all sounds good. I finally stove to peer pressure and Joe's bulletproof logic (Joe thinks about as straight as the Oregon coastline, but believes his arguments are sound, believes them implicitly, and best of all, expects others to believe them because they came out of Joe's cakehole) and say, fine, I agree that the old museum climbs are taking up space and not getting done and that we should add bolts and make them safe for anyone climbing at that grade, whatever it is. I agree to buy the bolts, drive the climbers to a renown route to put their beliefs to action, to prove that they were not just so much blue wind about needing to fix the old routes, but verily, not a single of those insisting that no one owns the rock and that the old routes needs updating step up to do said updating. No one. Apparently, it's okay to voice strong opinions, rip others, but do nothing yourself to confirm that your words have some weight (action) behind them. In other words, a collection of folk and declared that these routes need fixing. But the fixing has to be done by others, because thy can't be bothered to do anything but talk about it while expecting the museum routes to be updated by others. In fact the only thing I haven't offered to do is to climb the goddam thing for them as well - but we already did that, but poorly, according to this group. So I'm telling you we can win for losing here.
JL
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DavidRoberts
climber
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Sep 25, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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Wow, John. You continue to be arrogant, condescending and disrespectful to anyone that disagrees with you or doesn't want to play your game. Your ego comes though loud and clear in every post. I guess you figure that anyone who doesn't have "sac" isn't worthy of common courtesy. As a climber you were amazing, but your attitude sucks.
David Roberts
Alpine, CA
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 25, 2013 - 02:29am PT
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"Take a vacation Joe"
And take David Roberts with you.
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