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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:17am PT
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...goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
Hey Bob--I want in on this too.
Curt
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goatboy smellz
climber
boulder county
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Holy quads, calfs & bahdunkadunk!
GOOD GOD!
Klimmer, stop teasin'
We know you still have tha goodz.
Don't forget the pushups.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Mt Woodson is a very fine place. I'm making time for this place because of its local.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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I hope to make it up to Woodson this weekend.
Since I am still recovering from a tendon injury sustained back in October, I will only crack climb and wide stuff at that.
What are the best Hands, Fist, and OW cracks at Woodson? I would like to stick to stuff that is longer, since I get my rocks off of leading more so than bouldering, so please include the approx. length of the route. Right now, considering my current condition, I am really looking to do 5.8-5.10 wide crack stuff.
Thanks for the help!
Darshan
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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I did a little a research at www.mountainproject.com and here's what I found for Hands, Fist, and OW cracks in the 5.8 to 5.10- range (that are 20 feet or longer):
Robbins Boulder:
Robbins crack (10a hands) 35ft ***
Rockwork Orange Boulder:
Rockwork Orange (10a wide-hands) 40ft ***
Tower Two Area:
Tower Two Chimney (5.8 chimney) 45ft
Tower Two Crack (5.7) 35 ft
Sickle Crack Boulder:
Sickle Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft ***
Poison Oak Boulder Area:
Poison Oak Crack (5.7 offwidth) 35ft
Big Grunt (5.9 offwidth) 55ft
Elsa's Crack (5.7 tight hands) 20ft
Uncertainty Principle Area:
Eric's Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft
The Summit Area:
Crucible (10c offhands, fist, offwidth) 25ft ***
SW Crack of Ogre Boulder (5.10 fist)
The Cave Area:
John's Crack (5.9 hands) 18ft
Bat Flake (5.10c fists, forearms) 22ft ***
Greg's Crack (5.11 offwidth) 17ft
Please add to the list if you can!
Thanks,
Darshan
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Big Grunt, 5.9 offwidth/chimney 90'
Bat Flake, 10c Hands 35'(one of the greats).
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks.
I added those climbs to The List.
I presume you meant 9ft for Big Grunt, not 90?
Darshan
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
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No, I meant 90 ft, but now that I think of it, 55 would be a better estimate. It's 5.9 offwidth to get in then maybe 5.7 chimney to the top.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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Wow, that sounds like a must-do then...
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Do you have any information on these climbs?
Sunday Afternoon Boulder 5.9 hands
Grainstorm hand crack 5.9 hands
Out of Sight 5.9 hands
Monkey Crack 5.10c hands/fists
Ride the Lightening 5.10d cupped hands, wicked steep
Mariah 5.10d OW
Also, does anyone know where the San Diego Climber's Coalition Website has gone? It used to be at http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/ but now is gone and I can't even view the cached page from google... Also, when I try to use www.archive.org to view archived versions of the site, I get a message stating that the site has been blocked... http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/
Darshan
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Jan 29, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Dude your killing me, take your meds.
Grainstorm is V5otd face that should prob. be toproped
The rest of those are good. Out of Sight is stellar
Don't even ask about the website there weren't any Woodson topos there anyways.
If anyone wants to look at hard offwidth boulder problems that they've never seen before let me know. I still have a couple I haven't gotten around to doing yet.
Whats the use of listing crap your pulling out of book here with no topo.
Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Jan 29, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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I just moved to SD.
I love this thread.
My palms just go sweaty reading it.
Is it okay to chalk up in a retail store?
See at the badass splitter cracks!
OP: good TR.
-Aaron
ps: hitting up Vertical Hold gym tonight, and for sure Thurs nite if any SD climbers are still following this.
Busy during the day, so the gym will have to hold me over!
Woodson next week sometime, for sure.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 29, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
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¿"Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo"?
Where, exactly?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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wannabes.
all your sends are belong to me.
--pitansk
p.s. grades mean nothing at woodson. 5.10d = V0. so maria's OW is V0?? even tho it's overhanging, insecure, with a very bad landing, and it's 25' up before the business is over??
heh.
have at it, homeslice.
p/s -- if you like wide, go do sickle crack (first pic in this thread.)
remember, it's 5.9.
if you don't do wide cracks, bring a bro (spotters don't do you no good at 30+ feet) who has a cell phone. you can join your name to the long list of idjits who been choppered out of woodson on their way to meet the grevious angel.
watch your back, don't get in over your head. woodson ain't the happies. it's a "bouldering" area where people have died.
i'm just sayin', is all.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
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Right on BVB! Just send 'em peeps!
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 30, 2007 - 01:20am PT
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I plan to lead. I got big gear, and a rope. Might as well use it! Even if that means only using three pieces.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Jan 30, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
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[url="http://www.climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=227.0
"]Over the Top of the Hill[/url]
wups forgot the link, topo sucks, it's a work in progress
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
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Hope this is ok with you, Watusi... Here's a better map of Woodson, drawn by Mike Paul and posted by Tarbuster in another thread.
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Jan 30, 2007 - 01:54pm PT
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nice way to enjoy woodson without losing the contents of your vehicle!
big grunt straight up? yuk. all this time i thought it was heel-toe, heel-toe, sliiide sliiide, all the way out the back door?
have i been doing it wrong?
which ones of ya'll have third classed uncertainty/curtains? could never sack for either of those problems sans cord.
who did airstream first?
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 30, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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Thanks all for your posts. The topos and route descriptions will be particularly useful. Man, I am psyched to get on these cracks this weekend for my first Woodson trip! Its only Tuesday, this week is going to be long...
D
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