Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Werner wrote
"Otherwise ..... widespread social conflict and chaos will prevail and remain perpetually."
You mean "same as it ever was" or some new level of social conflict and chaos as it concerns climbing?
Peace
Karl
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
Maybe they should tape all the holds on the upper wall of GU a certain color eh? Green route, Red route, yellow route, I mean if we truly want a PC route back there, that would be the way to do it. Half Dome isn't the Pacific Edge, Mission Cliffs or any other Climbing gym in the country. At least not yet. BTW what's next back there boy's?
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Nobody's saying this route is a bold example of perfect style and risk.
Neither should anyone say it's a tightly bolted gym-style creation.
You can call a spade a spade but the Ace of Spades isn't the same as the 3 of Spades.
Peace
Karl
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Karl "same as ever"
and Cracko, for you ..... -:)
"The atom is described as an invisible particle, but when six such atoms combine together, they are called a trasareṇu, and this is visible in the sunshine pouring through the holes of a window screen."
"It is calculated that if a second is divided into 1687.5 parts, each part is the duration of a truṭi, which is the time occupied in the integration of eighteen atomic particles. Such a combination of atoms into different bodies creates the calculation of material time. The sun is the central point for calculating all different durations."
Have fun; hahahaha
|
|
johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
|
|
WB,
Could you elaborate?
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
I knew it Werner, that's what I was thinking all along....
Either that or you've gone all the way around the bend.
They let you be in charge of stuff out there?
|
|
chossyslab
climber
|
|
First off, i havent read all the posts here but have read many (including all of Doug's and Sean's).
Second, earlier it was asked by someone (i forget who) for some of the younger crowd to chime in so i offer my opinion albeit late in the discussion.
So here goes: I for one think that the rock should dictate the ascent. You dont go into a climb with a form in mind of how you want the route to be and shape the route to fit those ideas. Instead, you go into a climb, GROUND UP, and if the rock says run it out, you run it out and if it says this sh*t is blank and im not even gonna give you any place to set a hook and drill than you better be ready to drill from a stance or you rap off and come back when your ready for that. Its not about making routes accessible to the masses or we would just chip our way up everything so that my grandma could do laps on valley "classics." We arent trying to turn yos into disneyland here (even though the valley kinda is already).
That said i think it's also circumstantial. I went sport climbing today at a local crag that has many routes which were bolted on rap and, honestly, i have no problem with that. Just as i have no problem with coz rap bolting a short jtree line. Things are different when you factor in the adventure and the grandeur of a big wall. It just doesn't feel right.
Those things said, I have much respect for you guys (DR and Sean) and some people here, i think, have been unecessarily hard on you. Don't let some of the comments on here get too much into your head, for you have done some great and very influential things for the climbing community over the years and we should all never forget that. I dont want to take anything away from you guys accept for the fact that I disagree with the way in which the upper part of this route was climbed. Sorry guys but i think you fu*ked up on this one. Just doesnt feel right.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
Spare me the rhetoric Baba, Good lines back there are like trout in the Merced...steadily becoming rare and elusive. The difference is once The SFHD is tapped out there is no route hatchery program to replenish supply for future generations.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Kenny wrote
"Spare me the rhetoric Baba, Good lines back there are like trout in the Merced...steadily becoming rare and elusive. The difference is once The SFHD is tapped out there is no route hatchery program to replenish supply for future generations."
This is a text forum. How I'm supposed to spare you any rhetoric?
So what if lines are elusive? If all the lines are saved for future Death Route pioneers, is that supposed to be a good thing? Is it SO important that EVERY line wait for some hardman to put up a death route that one or two parties will repeat in 20 years?
Want to be a stud? Solo the damn thing. The opposite approach isn't available to the humble guy only climbing 5.12 that doesn't want to die on Karma or Southern Belle. Something for everybody.
I'm just a little too selfish to allow the Elite to control my priorities like that. The Studs have no shortage of place to have fun or adventure. If they don't get to monopolize every opportunity, my heart doesn't bleed.
Peace
Karl
|
|
Mustang
climber
From the wild, not the ranch
|
|
"No tree has branches so foolish as to fight among themselves". Ojibway Tribe.
But climbers sure do...
|
|
Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
|
|
That rock belongs to the American Indians.
Nobody should F with it.
Sharma eats oganic grains fromStaff of Life Bakery in Santa Cruz, what, organic wheat produces a Champion, what a shocker, ehh?
|
|
Ragz
climber
Tartarus, black hole of the internet
|
|
Oh come on folks, almost 900.
I'm certain there are a lot more of you out there that have absolutely nothing to say.
|
|
Sean Jones
climber
|
|
Scott Cosgrove,
I've been climbing for 20 years now. For the past decade it's become my job. I FEED my children by climbing F#cking rocks. Most people really like me as a person. Probly because every day I go way out of my way to take care of and be nice to as many people as possible. As I said in an earlier post, My home # is 209-379-2870.
When you got nailed for power drlling on El Cap. F#CKING EL CAP !!! I remember being bummed for you guys. I would never start up a post or do anything to try and bring you or anyone else down for anything. Ever !
Not to mention rap bolting in Joshua Tree. So what if it's only a small route on chossy rock. You also set an example in a WAY high profile area. Another thing I don't do is bolt anything with bad flexy holds that may break. Because when they do break, You tend to end up with yet another route that only really served the first ascentionist.
Again, I only remember being inspired by those lines and wanting to climb them. As a young climber I used to have "HEROS" People who inspired me to climb. You were one of those people. 20 years later and 17 of those spent in Yosemite has changed me entirely. The only hero I have in climbing now is a 5 year old boy who climbs because It's fun and feels good.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
When I look at the history of climbing in Yosemite, and I mean just Yosemite, the prevailing trend was, when putting up FA's on the big walls, to try and make your FA in better style than the previous ascent(s).
After Harding's ascent of the Nose, Robbins, Frost, Pratt, Chouinard all tried to put up FA's on El Capitan using fewer fixed ropes, people and drilled anchors. You can quibble a bit on what happened when, but the general feeling among the pioneers was that you tried to do the next FA in better style than the last FA.
It is clear to me that Sean Jones' route on SFHD was done in much poorer style than any of the other FA's on that wall. Maybe his style created a route that is climbable by more people, but the issue for me is that he used a poorer style than his predecessors.
Bruce
|
|
pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
|
|
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
|
|
Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
|
|
I deleted the offensive posts and am very sorry if I hurt anyones feelings...
I did puke after the Cookie though, just ask Survival.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
bigger fish to fry
Let us know!