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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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Simple physics ...
How to tell if glasses are nearsighted or farsighted
by STEPHANIE CHASTEEN on AUGUST 21, 2008
http://blog.sciencegeekgirl.com/2008/08/21/how-to-tell-if-glasses-are-nearsighted-or-farsighted/
Farsighted vision, convex lense, the image moves out.
Nearsighted vision, concave lense, the image moves in.
Note that the black frame of the eye-glass near the very bottom edge of the lense splits significantly and moves in to the left.
Note also the washer behind the bolt (zoom way in), the outer edge of the washer moves in from a perfect circle.
These eye glasses are for nearsighted vision.
The bottom of my personal progressive lense glasses for reading (bottom portion only) are for nearsighted vision which is slight and they don't move the eye-glass frame in toward the left as much as these found glasses do.
I would say the glasses found are for strong nearsighted vision.
Jeremy,
You maybe right. Applying the simple rule as stated in the article, and imagining them on someones face, it could move the face outward. I may have screwed up there. What I imagined as moving in could be infact outward.
This can be determined quickly shooting at a computer screen as you did even through dirty glasses that were found. Are they nearsighted or farsighted would be very easy to determine.
Still an optometrist has to verify them. They could be variable across the lense as mine are for reading, and they looking at far-distance.
Did Matt wear glasses that were variable across the lenses? Perhaps some of his friends and family know the answer to this easy question.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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Any quality images of Matt wearing glasses where we can see the side of his cheekbone through the lenses and apply the rule?
We know he's strongly nearsighted. How do the glasses look on his face considering the rule.
How to tell if glasses are nearsighted or farsighted
by STEPHANIE CHASTEEN on AUGUST 21, 2008
http://blog.sciencegeekgirl.com/2008/08/21/how-to-tell-if-glasses-are-nearsighted-or-farsighted/
Farsighted vision, convex lense, the image moves out.
Nearsighted vision, concave lense, the image moves in.
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LAhiker
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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I agree with Klimmer that Jeremy may be right that the glasses that were found look like they're for far-sightedness. I did want to note that according to his prescription, in addition to being nearsighted, Matt had mild astigmatism in his right eye (-.75) and mild to moderate astigmatism in his left eye (-1.00). Based on a quick web search about astigmatism, the other numbers in the glasses prescription indicate that the axes around which the astigmatism was to be corrected were very different -- almost horizontal in the right eye (175) and almost vertical in the left eye (005).
I don't know how the astigmatism would affect how things look when you place the glasses in front of them the way we're looking at the sign through the glasses. (I'm quite nearsighted but don't have much astigmatism, hence cannot tell from doing this with my own glasses.)
I think Klimmer's suggestion re looking at pictures of Matt makes sense, but I'm not sure whether the "image moves in" thing would be visible given that Matt's prescription isn't as strong as Jeremy's or mine.
I'm making the assumption that Matt's various pairs of glasses are similar to the prescription that Tiffany got from the optician, and thus were meant as alternatives to contacts and not as reading glasses. (The prescription from that optician didn't seem to be for progressive lenses, but that's not to say Matt had no such glasses.)
I gather that the Mammoth police department will get the glasses tested as soon as possible -- I hope that's today or tomorrow.
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SplitPants
Social climber
LA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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HighTraverse
Fact?? I think Matt had climbed the V (U) Notch Couloir earlier this summer. The U Notch is probably harder than anything in the Minarets, it's certainly much longer. Somewhat less dangerous as it doesn't end in cliffs at the bottom. The V Notch is harder than the U Notch a "notch" or two.
When I compiled the timeline yesterday I came across this information in previous posts:
Climbs in the area done prior to 7/13 [per Tom Davidcock and Matt's friends]
− Unicorn peak
− Mammoth Crest
− Clyde minaret on 7/11 (verified with registry signature)
− Dana Couloir
− North peak
− Palisades v notch
− Reigeluth minaret
There is also a post by Teddy that states "Checked register at Star plaque and no signature"
Really think your analysis/insight is great! Hope this helps. Tx
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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MGuzzy
It's common practice to just take boots/crampons and one axe on a moderate alpine (rock, snow, ice) climb. Especially if solo where a rope/harness are of no help unless you plan to rappel.
Apparently Matt was pretty experienced and skilled in their use.
SplitPants
Thanks for clarifying the facts.
FYI Dana Couloir is frequently a first snow/ice route in the Sierra right at Tioga Pass, the Yosemite East entrance. It's long, not particularly difficult and in spectacular surroundings. And a quick approach from the car; for Matt, likely about 2 hours. Easy warm up day trip at altitude.
V (or U) Notch couloirs are in the Palisades and a much larger undertaking. U Notch is definitely a step up from Dana and V Notch is harder still.
Point is, Matt had been ticking off the classic Sierra summer snow/ice climbs.
Which leads to the question: was Ritter SE Glacier next? (that's the area Cragman and Flanders explored on their last trip). Although Ritter SE Glacier is a walk in the park compared to Matt's earlier climbs it STILL has the objective hazards of moats, bergschrunds and cliffs.
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SplitPants
Social climber
LA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
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thanks for the clarification HighTraverse
DITTO! I really like the factual, yet simple and straightforward way HighTraverse spells things out. I am blonde after all:)
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SplitPants
Social climber
LA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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All,
A 2 min segment on Matthew Greene just aired on CNN here in California. I checked CNN's site, but the segment has not posted. I recorded the video on my camera, but don't have a way to load here (I don't do youtube). If anyone wants the video to upload I would be willing to zip and send over.
Thanks
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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Ron, I think the Clyde glacier is a very likely spot. I've traversed below it from Cecile Lake to Ritter in early summer, with lots of snow, and it was very scary. Big cliffs below it and at least two of those chasms split that section all the way from the toe of the glacier to Iceberg lake. The route I took is all bare rock now, we came back the long way via Ediza and Iceberg to Cecile so we wouldn't have to go back on that traverse.
The three 4th class routes on the N Side of Clyde can only be approached via that glacier.
Cragman and Flanders didn't have time to go over that way.
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tdg119
Social climber
Northampton, PA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Visited my parents today and they had a bunch of pictures Matt had put on their PC from his 09-10' trips. We have no idea what terrain; other than some of it being the Gunks - all those mountains just look the same to us.
Just sharing in case it helps with anything. 90% of the pictures are scenic with a few pictures of Matt himself - in fact the "missing" photo in the news is from this set.
Side note: one of the items believed to be with Matt is his digital camera. I found the disc for one at his house - disc is for Sony Cybershot DSC S-750/S-780 so if either of those models is found...
https://findmattgreene.shutterfly.com/
~Tiffany
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Aug 25, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Why wouldn't one want to take two ice tools instead of one?
If on a technical climb, meaning terrain is steep enough that one is placing ice tools to actually climb, two tools are necessary. If the terrain is more moderate, the terrain less steep, you're not climbing on ice tools but rather moving up with just your feet. One ice tool is sufficient for balance and one is much better in the event you trip and need to self arrest. On moderate terrain a second tool just gets in the way, and is generally stowed or left behind.
I don't know the terrain out there at all but that he took just one ice tool and not two, to me means that he didn't anticipate anything very steep.
I don't know Matt but someone up thread mentioned he was at the Gunks recently and climbed Doubleissima. I'll be running by Doubleissima in the next hour or so.
Good luck to all of you doing so much to help. This thread is the very best of Supertopo and the climbing community.
Best wishes to Matt, his family, and friends.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Aug 25, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Ron, it's hard to know who knows what here, and certainly some of Matt's friends and family who are following this thread aren't alpinists, so I thought I'd elaborate in a way I wouldn't normally here. If I had just one ice tool I'd be avoiding bergshrunds. My guess is that was his plan, but of course I'm just guessing.
Personally, I don't put much stock in dreams, but last night I dreamed that Matt turned up and posted a dramatic and lengthy TR here. If only.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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whoop man, those pics give me mixed emotions.
What do I take away that's "useful"?
1: mostly solo travel in the mountains.
2: did at least one difficult ice climb. It think it's in upper New York State
3: 2 solo trips into the Wind Rivers (early and mid summer)
4: Plenty of time on mountain snowfields. Maybe not so much on steep ice fields like in the Sierra in summer.
5: I didn't see many summit pics. Apparently none from steep climbs.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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Climbing the V Notch (or U Notch) couloir in mid summer, this year especially, involves negotiating a significant bergschrund so Matt had some experience with that. Possibly less so with moats/schrunds at the top of a much larger snow/ice field. Cragman's pic on his TR showed a major schrund at the top of a snowfield on Ritter.
For non glacier climbers: a bergschrund is a usually horizontal space that forms at the top or bottom of a slowly moving ice mass. Its a deep "crevasse" between the steep ice and the steep rock behind it. They can be many feet deep even on a small ice field. In warm weather, the lip of the 'schrund can be soft enough for a man's weight to collapse it. Or, if fallen into from above, extremely difficult to get out of. Moats are similar gaps that appear along the sides of snow/ice fields where they are melting away from the rock. Or sometimes within the boundaries of snow/ice field, often around big rocks.
Both bergschrunds and moats are likely to have ice cold running water between them and the rock.
At this time of year, in the Sierra, the melt / freeze cycles cause the snow/ice to soften in afternoon and often to freeze again at night. Through the season this slowly turns the top several inches into ice at night which may or may not melt in the daytime.
For instance the Dana couloir (which I've climbed in mid summer and late October) is firm snow in late June, softening to slush by mid afternoon and freezing again at night. On a good day, with one axe, you can "hike" up it in the morning before it gets too soft, crampons optional depending on conditions. It was likely in this condition when Matt climbed it.
By late September (possibly earlier this year) it will turn to hard blue ice requiring crampons, one or two ice axes and great care not to fall.
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tdg119
Social climber
Northampton, PA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
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FWIW, not all those pics were solo; I took out a handful of others since I don't know whether they'd want their faces out there. These pics I reference are mainly the ones with climbs involved (rope, caribiners, helmet, gloves, etc)
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SplitPants
Social climber
LA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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Attached a snapshot of clothing and gear. If anything is incorrect and/or I missed anything please let me know. Thx
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Big Breasted Woman
Trad climber
The Brown Crack
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Aug 25, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
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Great job, Splitpants! Really clarifies things for those unfamiliar with climbing and/or outdoor gear etc..
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SplitPants
Social climber
LA
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Aug 25, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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MGuzzy & Tiffany
I did some research on the camera models. The sony site indicates the models are no longer available. I was curious about GPS and wifi capabilities as well.
S750 model - this model does not have capabilities
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Cyber-shot-DSCS750-Digital-Optical/dp/B0011E67AG
HOWEVER.....
S780 model-SUPPORTS AN OPTIONAL GPS UNIT!
"Picture Motion Browser software Supplied software makes it easier to upload, organize, and search photos on your PC. When shooting photos using your camera and an optional GPS unit, the software even provides a convenient map view function that lets you sort photos by location and display their origin on a world map. "
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Cybershot-DSCS780-Digital-Optical/dp/B0011E67AQ
Is there anyway to find out if Matt purchased this? Perhaps product registration information? I was not able to find a picture of the GPS unit. If this is a lead I would be wlling to go to the Sony store. If I recall we have a large sony store at a mall nearby.
[EDIT] One alternate way to perhaps determine this....Tiffany if you have access to the pictures you found today. Take one of the pictures on the hard drive that say have a mountain/peak. Right click on the picture, select property and then look at the details. IF there is GPS Lat/Long meta data then I would say we just may be in luck. If you dont know how to check all of this PM me and I can have you send me a couple of pics and I can take a look at the meta data. I will also go to the link you posted and see what I can get off the meta data.
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