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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 20, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 21, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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I found this listening to Can....Reminds me of the fun of growing up surfing on the everyday level.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc7Ua3W9GkM&ob=av2e
I spend most of my time surfing on Kauai now. My good friend owns a house there. I don't know if this has been posted but this is a truly beautiful video of him shot where I grew up surfing......I think it explains the very best of what being in the water means.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c6uM950uFY Happy Thanksgiving!
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Hynson wrote a book.
Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel
Must admit that I haven't read it yet.
I always thought of John Peck as the coolest of the San Diego surfers.
He's still riding.
and the famous 1963 Pipeline shot:
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John M
climber
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 21, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Hey wstmrnclmr-
Thank you for posting that video.
Very inspirational.
This video is just a trailer but it's killer!
Cool to see the grom grew up and is doing cool stuff.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
and how bout some rock climbing
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Good music, beauitifully shot, amazing line, masterfully climbed.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 22, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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This thread just gets better and better!
We have some real quality energy going in my opinion.
The swell we had earlier this week was real big. It was just too big, and it was messed up with strong and fluky off shore winds.
For me it looked like looking into Dirty Harry's hand canon. "DO Ya Feel Lucky Punk?"
Well I didn't!
A few guys tried and there were no positive stories about their sessions.
The next day the swell had dropped to a seemingly manageable size but the wind was still strong and off shore creating a massive wind shadow with a strong rip current that made it extremely difficult to get back through the narrow rocky channel at thew Kuau launch.
I opted to not go out again thinking that my luck wasn't much better than the day before.
I took my gear to the launch and watched for a few moments and then took it back home changed out of my wet suit( it was cool enough to wear a shorty) I then went back to the beach to watch the show.
I wasn't there very long when I noticed someone waving and signaling for help.
I walked over to get a closer look and noticed that it was my neighbor Geovanti.
The waves hitting the rocks were so violent that there was no way to help him so I directed him to swim with his gear the extreme back of the bay.
I walked the jagged shore line and kept him company as he made his way.
The currents were favorable and he made good progress.
I had been in this situation a lot over the years and knew that there was only one place to come in and directed him to the spot.
When he got close enough to communicate he said that he had really screwed his knee up.
I swam out to him and had him stay in the water while I got his gear in through the rocks and sizable shore pound. Then I helped him in as best I could. I just told him to crawl and stay off the injured leg.
Once we were safely on the shore I had to figure out how to get him across the extremely rugged terrain.
Luck was with us in that I noticed a neighbor in her yard and told her that my friend was injured. She actually had some crutches and allowed us to cross her property.
I then sat Geo down in front of the neighbors house and walked the rugged beach back to my house and got my truck and went and picked him and his gear up and dropped him off at his place.
The next day I wave sailed some in large and very unique conditions with out penalty. It was fun in a strange sort of way.
BTW: The doctor said Geo won't have to have surgery but he will need to rest and rehab the knee before wave sailing again.
After that day the swell diapered completely and I put all my attention to the work project that I have going.
Thanksgiving morning delivered a sweet head to head and a half swell.
I had a wonderful glassy surf session in my back yard!
I got one really sweet wave!
I got creamed on another one!
I missed a bunch because I was sitting a bit too far out.
There were only three of us in the line up.
It was me and a guy from Denmark and the other was from Brazil.
We saw a shark but he wasn't interested in us at all.
Aloha to everybody on Super Topo!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Olaf
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 23, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 24, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 24, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I'll follow that post!
I think I always wanted to surf and still do I think (am/was a windsurfer). I'm not sure if the one and only surfing experience I did have kept me from pursuing surfing or if it's other things that got in the way - like my diving friend at the time that claimed a shark bit the end of his fin off! I had no experience with surfing at all (except bodysurfing of course and windsurfing had not been invented yet in 1971) when my friend Doud Stewart told me it was easy and took me to the LANE in Santa Cruz. I think the waves were pretty big that day - it may have even been winter but I did not have a wetsuit on. I kept struggling, trying to catch a wave and finally the board was washed all the way in to the rocks. I recall there being a bit of a break in the waves, but just as I got to the board a wave hit me and tossed me halfway up the rocks to the parking lot and the board landed in the parking lot! I had a nice gash on my right hip and probably still have THAT scar. It was pretty funny in a way since when I landed I was facing the ocean and all spread out like a starfish. That was the last time I went surfing.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Apropos O-Man's Thanksgiving day posts; do any of you remember the photo from Surfer Magazine mid-'70s of Rory Russell in a remarkably gentle looking Pipeline Tube with the caption something to the effect "Rory Russel passed up Thanksgiving Turkey for this gem". It was a long time ago so I could have gotten pretty much everything wrong, but the memory of the photo and caption, fabricated or not, stuck with me.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 25, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Nov 25, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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@Darwin
Is this it? Cool, but not as cool as John Peck. John is said to be the first to ride the pipeline on acid. Whether he was that day, he's not sayin'.
Photo credit: Jeff Devine
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 25, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 26, 2012 - 08:39am PT
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If you haven't seen any of Kepa Acero's videos, check them out.
He has traveled the world alone and documented surfs and people.
Always good music and waves.
Here's the first one I ever watched. It is now my go-to watch for inspiration and stoke.
When I feel alone, life seems hard, and the world an inhospitable place, I watch this video.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Stoke is contagious!
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Leggs
Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
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Nov 26, 2012 - 08:49am PT
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The one above is one of my favorites ... good call.
I also enjoyed his adventure to Alaska... The positivity he maintains throughout, esp during the "approach" to the surf, is unsurpassed.
~Peace
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Leggs
Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
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Nov 26, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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Good call, Kath. The people he meets, and the warm welcome he receives speaks volumes about the man he is. A man who enjoys life, in every possible way.
~Peace
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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