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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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May 31, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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that was an awesome
rap.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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p-owed, tell us more about that thing, where is it? Climbing potential? Length? Its pretty impressive.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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That is where that kid died a few months ago. Mildrid falls!
It is usually dry. This year do to the rain its been flowing all year. If it is climbable in would be 5.13 or higher a few faces around look ok. when we climbed out their where a lot of lose rocks and dirt. its bolted at the top and 100 feet down on the first ledge the ledge has just one bolt. I raped it using a 600ft blue water assault rope with my brother. We are planing to go back when it is dry to do it again. I,ll post up before is anyone wants to go
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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p-owed
A friend of mine put those bolts in. We did a couple of routes on the upper tier when it was dry. Plan was to go back and do some stuff on the bottom part but didn't materialize.
Upper tier, no water
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Kool! i have never go their when it was dry. Thanks for the blots. When did you place them the beta sayed their was only one. When was the cross to the west above the falls put up do you know or was it for that kid that died trying to rap it a few months ago.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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When i was on that ledge it was green and very slippy.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Mildred Rap:
1) two bolts located north side, 5'-10' back from lip of fall. Rappel <100' diagonally across line of fall to two bolts on wall at the large ledge below, right side of fall.
2) Rap again to another two bolts at next large ledge (<100')
3) 180' rap to ground, majority of rap in overhanging territory.
Alternately, a 300' cord can get you onto easily down climbed ledges just above the ground.
(Original rap was completed in two stages, each off a single bolt and both on the north side of the fall, first from the 1)station mentioned above straight down to a second rap from a single, no stance bolt located on the bulge above the overhanging wall. This is the one that seems to sucker people and get them in trouble)
As F10 mentions I installed the double sets of bolts a couple years ago (well I only added one at the top to compliment someone's original bolt, then installed two at the following two new stations on the fall's right side) to facilitate belays for our climbs on the short walls above the top two ledge systems. We've had some fun out there doing that, but I never really intended the route to become the rap route that it has. As I have personally experienced, it is difficult to do the shift from one side of the fall to the other on the first rap when it's wet. Be forewarned.....
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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I know a bob that climbed Mildrid in the 70s with his late best friend.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Just got an email from Dan Beall regarding his probable first ascent of the arete to the right of Jaws. Btw, Dan did this WITHOUT using the broken section that was a topic of discussion earlier in the thread (imagine that). Here is the link on vimeo he sent me...
http://vimeo.com/24804042
Edit: Never did see BVB in San Diego.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:52am PT
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Dan is such a beast. I love his enthusiasm and strength. I'm glad he's still sending new stuff out at Woodson.
I just got back from a late afternoon session at Woodson. I just did the stand start to Boulder 13 (I think that's the name). Now I need to go back and get the sit start to the problem. I'll probably bring a camera and video the ascent, since it's quite unique. It's quite a few moves of inversion offwidth, for me. Good fun! Who on this thread has done B13? And if you did it, did you invert?
Josh
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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I still remember the sequence to boulder 13 after 30 years.Fist jam, armbar ,top.Locking each one as low as I could.Sit start would be fun.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
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No inversion? Jeez, that must have been hard! Maybe I'll work that solution to it next. Left side, or right side in? I'd guess left.... I always assumed that the people who didn't invert had HUGE mits and fist jammed the crack.
Josh
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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RE: "Dan Beall regarding his probable first ascent of the arete to the right of Jaws."
pretty awesome video - wicked looking problem. TFPU.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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So, I've heard people have almost died from lack of oxygen up there...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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Dan's ascent is incredible if you ask me...makes me look like a beginner! Look at the length of that dynamic move he makes, what a beast is right!
You're climbing hard too, for an "ol' man," Josh! I'll help you do the video if you want, leave me an email.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jun 15, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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Seems to me Woodson, with that elevation gain - and the road - would be an awesome place for a speed climbing competition. Three divisions, based on age.
A one (to three?) day event. How aerobic could it get? Climbing contests - and competing - are a big part of Woodson's history.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 15, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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I never set records, but I used to do a slow jog up the mountain, tag the summit, and solo routes on the way down. It was a great way to spend an afternoon out there after work.
Josh
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Jun 19, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Hit Woodson Friday night I had already drunk a bottle of crown before my crew abducted me. Al We did was mess around on painted bolder till 12.
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