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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 14, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
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Great write up Joe, any news on a publisher for your book?????????????????????????
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Feb 15, 2010 - 06:36am PT
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It's interesting how climbs go in and out of fashion. I never thought to ask Frank Sacherer what his favorite climb in the Valley was, but from the amount of comment on the ones he did mention, I would say the first free ascent of this one was his favorite.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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Feb 15, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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That could be a good FaceLift project.
Joe-
Great to see you here on the ol' Taco Stand. And thanks for the great day 35 years ago at Jenny Lake, "showing me the ropes".
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gumbyKing
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 15, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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great TR, nice pics.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 15, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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Since Ed mentioned Glen Denny's great Lost Arrow shot, I should mention I have a few copies of Glen's lithograph left and they are SIGNED by the photographer!
http://shop.vershke.com/
Here is the poster...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 15, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
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Yeah had only done the "Direct" on the Arrow, (with "Punk" Roy, and "Swiss" Michi,) and could only just peer into the chimney at times and marvelled at the on-sight free-solo ascent by fellow Woodson climber Greg Cameron, (Eeyonkee) in the '70's...
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jstan
climber
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Feb 15, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
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I read only the first page. The roar of the falls made this climb entirely unlike any other.
Only one comment.
If I would ever go back
I would use goldline.
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fosburg
climber
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Feb 15, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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The Lost Arrow Chimney is a great route! (also probably a great ice route in the winter all you bay area folks, nod's as good as a wink, say no more!). Nice trip report.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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Taken 2/13/10
Didn't notice the ice at the time.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
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There was a lot of ice in there... I definitely noticed and tried to take pics of it, but I don't think I got the exposure properly set for the darkness in the chimney compared to the brightness all around. Will post my pics whenever I upload 'em.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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that poster is AMAZING! I have it hanging up in my hallway... next to the "BACHAR" poster...
Denny's poster is very high quality, and the price seemed much too small for something like that, but it is what it is... if you are thinking about it and haven't purchased it yet, do it!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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Nice display of Denny photos (some LARGE) at the mountain room bar currently.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 16, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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I agree with Ed!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Here Jay, after Camera Raw techniques in PS C4:
You can see that effing ice tongue in there. this is a risky place to be when ice has formed.....
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
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Don't want to add another skeleton!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 17, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Wow I missed oldguy's story the first time around.
All the claustrophobia of the chimney lifted like a morning mist and with it a lot of the accumulated fatigue. We traversed from the notch toward the valley side of the spire into the healing, redeeming, ever-blessed sun
The golden age of Yosemite climbing was filled with an impressive group of people who could not only climb but also write eloquently about their adventures.
The founding fathers of American climbing. What a legacy they created.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Day off from work bump, deluxe quality thread.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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bump to bring the LA chimney back up
Zander - could you post up the rappel route beta from the notch?
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Zander
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Hi David,
Here is the rappel chart I got from Clint. The first rappel starts 50 feet below the first belay station for the LA Tip route. Let us know how it goes.
Z
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!