Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
|
Fergit about the coast. The good stuff is in the high country...
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
|
Quote KSolem: Fergit about the coast. The good stuff is in the high country...
Spewed by someone with years and years of Point experience to his name!
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
|
Hey I'm not dissing The Point. Far from it.
Just trying to figure out how a California climber can feel "gypped."
Want water with your crags...?
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
|
Stoney Point is like cat piss in a beer bottle.
fixied
heh.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
Speaking of the high country....
Is the road to Church Dome open yet?
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
|
Yes. And I'll be feeling really gypped when I am up there this weekend...
Catpiss? KNott...
|
|
MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
There is nothing steep?
not steep enough for you?
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
|
Jghedge Incorrect on all accounts.
The best climbing come in all forms.
& know I say troll to you.
|
|
MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
|
can we make this thread about stoney point now?
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
|
I as most of the folks on this tread have been to Hueco tanks & most place that you might climb at & still think stoney is the place. If you want to be pushed forward - if you want to rest a injury - if you just need to stay in shape before your off climbing for the summer - If you want to see different techniques by masters there are very few places like Stoney.
MBrown I should be there by Three see you there.
Climb on.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
|
Nothing Steep?? lol.
Secret SoCal areas? I'd show you mine but you wouldn't dig the approach hike.
And this is about Stoney. Stoney is a great place to get the skillz and strength to climb this stuff.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
|
choss is pretty personal.
i just couldn't get into stoney, even though i lived nearby for a time and really wanted to like it. about once a year, i'd persuade myself that it'd work for me and head out. i can remember neal k persuading me to go out one day to try one of paul's new routes. sort of a dyno out of a layaway in a narrow gully. i got both feet on, pulled hard, and the hold promptly broke.
that was pretty much stoney for me. although i did at least two return visits for the direct start on crank queenie. the move was cool and the holds were glued, so i figured they were less likely to choss off. i'd never done the regular cq, so after i fired the move and was exiting on that rail, i was horrified to realize that it was crumbling underhand and i can recall thinking, great, i'm gonna die on this hunk in some smelly cave alongside the highway.
still like the idea of stoney and appreciate the history.
and god knows, i've had areas i loved where the rock was about as marginal.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
|
From Sherman's old Hueco Tanks guide...
ENTERING THE PARK
As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glipmse of the rocks will be disappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point.
I always thought that was really funny.
|
|
MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
|
^^^^^^^^^^
hahaha
|
|
MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
|
slab is way more bad-ass then your 115° clip ups : )
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
|
But slab/vertical will not get you in shape for steep
The reverse is equally true. It can be really entertaining to watch some steep sport climber get on a hard slab or thin technical vert.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
|
Joe you know as well as I do that those are not sport climbs, and that the people who climb them are extremely well rounded climbers who train for and excell on all types of climbing. Ever done 5.13 slab? You won't get there doing a lot of steep clip ups.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
|
Joe the spot in my pic is 2k from the car. Up 500 in the first mile, 1500 in the second. It's a nice hike. Too hot now though - maybe next winter?
The route is 12a.
There are a couple of 100 plus degree cracks up there too that are solid .12 trad.
The ibupro is not good for you if you take it regularly. Google up prostaglandid inhibitors. Try Traumeel tabs.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
|
Yeah I remeber Huber's quote about that route, something to the effect that he is not a good crack climber but it is only 5.13b and "I have power to waste."
I think it is fair to say that what worked for him there probably won't work for most.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
|
you can come show off on tue. or thur. you either have it or you don't.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!