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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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Had that happen to my dog several years ago, only it was on the east side of Sparks right above Vista Blvd. We'll keep our eyes open.
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bob
climber
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May 16, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 16, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
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DMT, there's some good climbing lines in your picture a few posts back. Have they been climbed yet? I don't suppose you'll give up the formations location, eh?
Laine, any new routes by you and friends out at the Ridge lately? I imagine work and the twins are keeping you a bit busy.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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May 16, 2017 - 07:10pm PT
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new Lyons Ss baby tower today, solo loco. "Donnie's Rotten Lil' Smoky" 5.8 A1+
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 26, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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Egyptian Ridge Gang: Betsy and I will be out on in the area tomorrow, May 27th. We are heading to the Pyramid area to put top-anchors on the climbs we put up a few years ago. A couple of nice face climbs - Visions of Empire, 5.8 and High Desert Solitaire, 5.9. Both two pitches. We didn't have enough power in the drill for top anchors and since the walk-off is kind of heinous we thought it would be nice to finally finish up. The anchors can also be used to rap down from Dreamliner.
Anyone heading out there?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 26, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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I'm not around to head out Ney. You two should also look towards putting up new approach routes on the lower tier. Several good choices to the left of Dreamliner. One a flake system, another straight in crack system. Could be classics. Good luck and good climbing.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
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Rick and gang,
We spent the weekend at Egyptian Ridge and did some new and old. First the old and I'll post later with the new climbs.
We climbed "Stepping Out", 5.9 at the Sphinx, 2 pitches.
Rick - that is an awesome climb! Really a classic with a bit of everything. I thought it was basically over after the friction run after "stepping out" and then there is a an awesome hand crack. Well done. Betsy says 4/4 stars.
We did forget how to get to the Sphinx and ended up bushwacking down and around, but now we know...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 30, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
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Yeah, that's a great route Ney.
Bob and I found it and were glad to have Laine lead it on the FA.
We did a 190' first pitch ending 50' higher than your belay station on a good ledge. The second pitch, also very entertaining, was 110' ending on the big ledge adjacent to the new approach rappel route.
I'm eagerly awaiting pics and descriptions of the other routes you did, especially the new ones.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Betsy and I spent Memorial day weekend at Egyptian Ridge climbing new and old routes.
The first order of business - this was Memorial Day weekend after all - was to secure a campsite among the crowds.
It was a little surprising. Almost everything in the Sierras is still snowed in with our heavy snow year and still no one is up at ER climbing.
We put up one nice climb (Bodie Dreams)up an orange buttress (5.9) putting in three bolts and also a top ring anchor for a full 35 meter rappel (70 meter ropes only!) This rap is also usable for the first pitch of Dreamliner.
We also put up two easy fun climbs on the same wall. "Walk Like an Egyptian" 5.6 (Come on, you knew that name was coming...)and Pharaoh's Tomb, 5.7. WLAE meanders around a roof and you can pick your route to the top. PT follows a fun crack up.
We also had a little work to do higher up on the upper tier of this formation. We reclimbed "Visions of Empire" that we had put up some time ago, and we replaced the mid-wall belay bolts with ring anchors, and we also drilled and put chains in at the top. It is a very nice sustained 5.8 face climb with 5 or 6 bolts. So now you can rap off in two 35m raps (yes, it requires a full 70 meter rope). This formation is at a for-now undisclosed location.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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Looking good there Ney. Haven't been back to that formation this year, though I'm hoping to later. Spent the weekend closer to Ice House, though without any climbing I'm afraid.
I think Rick and I may be heading out there in June. Will you be around? For me, it all depends on how the kitchen remodel goes once I get started on it...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 31, 2017 - 04:24pm PT
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Good work by the Grant's!
That rap route you installed goes a long way towards making the crag civilized. Previously it was a heinous bushy descent of the first tier and an even more heinous fourth class descent off the very top.
This area, part of a 30 mile rock studded ridge of the Selenites, provides a very viable alternative to early season Sierra and a year round alternative to places like Donner and the Leap. Although, you could provide free shuttle bus service and install neon lights on the crags and still get few takers. Actually, this a good thing as it enables the relative few active here to pick the plumbs at their leisure.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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Thanks Rick. And you only have to take one 70 meter rope up that hill. But it better be 70 meters!
A word about the raps. The first tier rap station is fairly low down because it really is 35 meters to the ground. So it is hard to see from above - best to spot it on the way up Dreamliner or Bodie's Dream over to the left. If someone goes up there a rock cairn or two would help mark it so you can head directly to it when walking down from the second tier.
The top rap station (also the top of Visions of Empire) is found by heading straight down the summit blocks towards the steep face, then traversing right towards a small ridge. Rap straight down and the ring bolts are right above a long, small roof (which you should see from Dreamliner on the way up). Then its another rap to the bottom of the second tier.
It may be worth mentioning again that the all three raps need a full 70 meter rope.
We've put up quite good (damn good really) face climbs just to the left of your Dreamliner crack, on both tiers. (Turns out, who needs a crack?) So now there are six great pitches (especially the upper tier) up there, lots of 5.8 with some 5.9.
Enjoy!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
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Jonnyrig - yes, let me know when you head out there. June is kind of busy but I'd love to go.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 21, 2017 - 09:18am PT
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none of those pesky mushroom ice caps on either summit
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 21, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
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New spot I found.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 10:03pm PT
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Nice pics. Too hot and too busy to get out this month Ney. Hopefully heating out soon and will holler at you if something shapes up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 27, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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Batrock- I've been thinking about the double crack route near the cow camp. It's not a huge route, but it looked good. I'm off right now, and the family loves to camp up at cottonwood.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 27, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Tom, I'd love to get back up there. There is so much to do just around the cow camp area. I leave for Maui for 12 days on Thursday but when I get back I would be up for another trip up there. I also had my eye on this climb that you and I looked at several years ago and think it would be pretty good. Up the short seam then take the traversing crak to the left then up to the top. Look very doable.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 07:11pm PT
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Ha! I'm in Kauai from the 14th through the 21th, then Silver Lake from July 31 through August 9th. Maybe we could squeeze something in at the end of July, otherwise end of August and into September should be pretty nice up there.
Shoot- the one in your last shot has always looked good. Sling that top knob for the toprope anchor and have at it.
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