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bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:07pm PT

. . . maintain the legacy of Yosemite being the Mecca of world rock climbing, against which all other areas and climbs were measured.

In the 70's this was pretty much true. And it wasn't we who were making this statement; it was folks like Ken Wilson and Peter Habeler and Doug Scott -- foreigners.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland-GulfBreeze

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:07pm PT

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:11pm PT

Not for free climbing and bouldering...but I could be wrong. :-)

GodDAMMIT Bob! There was a boudering Mecca in the 70's and I missed out on it? WTF?! Pray tell, where was this place?!?!

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:16pm PT

"Am a pussy"

Hey mt1010110whatthef*#kever,

If you want to start a separate thread where we all post random shots of our alpine sh#t, I'll play along and I'm sure Donini and Rick might have something of interest to add. But your lame shots of easy party routes in Alaska are not germaine to the topic and are becoming an embarrassment. Post up your shots of Moonflower, Dawg.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:18pm PT

BVB wrote: GodDAMMIT Bob! There was a boudering Mecca in the 70's and I missed out on it? WTF?! Pray tell, where was this place?!?!

Yes you did...South Dakota and a little place called Pueblo, CO

The world according to the Cali boys is funny.

BVB wrote: it was folks like Ken Wilson and Peter Habeler and Doug Scott -- foreigners.

Well if Ken Wilson said so...

Didn't they play in the mountains alot and do a lot of aiding?? :-)

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:22pm PT

Waittadadburnminnut Bob I bouldered all over Colorado and the Dakotas and never saw another soul. Hell, even the 'milks was empty in the 70's. I understand Mecca gets pretty damn crowded so wtf!?

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:22pm PT

I know nothing will ever come of all this e-puffery™™™ but...

If the FA bolts of these runout routes lock the route into that state forever, who is to judge just what retrofitting IS acceptable? There are guys that have died falling 10 feet, and others that have gone 100+ without a scratch. Risk cannot be eliminated.

Me thinks the lowest common denominator rule will take over. I may need one additional bolt to feel safe or to "have fun", while Hedge may need 9 bolts for the same comfort level. What about the next wave of climbers? Will they need 20 bolts? or 50? At some point everything is bolted, and then a guy comes along and needs one more bolt. What then. Do the guys who have comfort with a bolt every 3 feet chop his 2ft 9" bolt?

What does retrobolting accomplish? Well, the bolt clippers gain another soft and safe route that they will over time likely not remember from any of the other overbolted clip-ups. Ho hum.... The real loss is it takes away from another climbers aspirations and a chance at a real mettle test, something that is all but gone in our modern pussified society.

And remember, not every route is for every person. I know that stings like a bitch, but it is true.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:25pm PT

This is awesome. Once this thread devolved into an all-star rugby scrum I had to deal myself back in. Ain't had this much fun since my last 'roid surgery backed with whiskey and percocet!

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:26pm PT

BVB wrote: Waittadadburnminnut Bob I bouldered all over Colorado and the Dakotas and never saw another soul. Hell, even the 'milks was empty in the 70's. I understand Mecca gets pretty damn crowded so wtf!?

Oh...I forgot Flagstaff (CO)...you must have done a lot of bouldering at night. :-)

Hope all is well.

Even backwater NM had a 5.12 in 1971.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:28pm PT

Russ...you sound like a baptist preacher.

Calm down, it hasn't happened.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:30pm PT

Mt10910 wrote: real risk and adventure climb is not at a crag you can drive to.

You haven't been to the Black Canyon...have you? You can drive within a hundred feet of the rim.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:32pm PT

Russ, I will fix this statement for you.

I know nothing will ever come of all this e-puffery™™™ but...

E-Poofery.

There, better.

Two Daves, Bobby, Hedgeman, keep stroking.

BWhwHAhAHHAHAH!!!!

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:32pm PT

you must have done a lot of bouldering at night. :-)

Well, you remember 70's cid right? Pupils so dilated they were like two Carolina moons. And mt01110101001009110101, hook line and sinker babe. Thanks for that.

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:33pm PT

MT10910 wrote: true bob, but ya still got to walk down to the start of climbing.

Some were done top down. :-)

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:49pm PT

Yeah Russ you infinitely pussifed buttknuckle, that is the argument you're making. Weedgiejoe done got you there.

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:49pm PT

Hedge, you know "just not clipping them" is nowhere near the same as not having any to clip. It completely alters the seriousness and commitment level. It is like free soloing with a rope hanging there... yer soloing, but not really.

Edit, for Hedges back edit: Yeah, nobody would ever put a finger through those added bolts or stand on them in a time of dire need.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Sep 24, 2013 - 06:50pm PT

Ever just feel like starting a thread whining about scary rock climbs so you can use it as a platform to post endless pictures of yourself mountaineering?

I didn't think cabin fever started this early.....