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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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"The first essential is to persuade a climbing team to climb for the main purpose of being photographed"
John Cleare in Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2008 - 03:07am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 28, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Some of those pictures look like they oughtta have stories.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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It's an old story, abridged here.
Sound track by Ravel in one version.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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Pot O' Goldfish at the very minimum!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:17am PT
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One of my unrealized life goals was to go UK seacliff-climbing.
Back in reality, took the new SD 880 out for a walk on Thanksgiving. Nothing fancy,
just snapshots.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
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Plenty of seaside thrillers that I would love to sample myself!
Andy Meyers belaying Mick Fowler on the FA of Caveman, Berry Head E4,6a. Ian Parker photo.
From Mountain Jan/Feb 1983. A little taste of the Fowler side of life....
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Nov 29, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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Out today on Exposure Explosion, Ogmore (South Wales).
Damp rock, milky sunshine, 5°C: cold fingers and numb toes.
This one even made the cover of 'Climbing' a while back.
Steve, I would be delighted to take you on a sea-cliff tour some time. You'd be on the sharp-end for the two routes you've chosen there though!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
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good stuff
just snapshots?
I see colors and atmospheric improbabilities not currently available to local markets.
just mossy bearding today
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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Nice shot Duncan! Better than the cover photo. I would love to take you up on the seaside adventure promotion! In the meantime armchair love ----> will just have to do.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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The UK stuff looks so cool.
My one experience there was a stormy day at Boulder Ruckle -- gale-force winds,
we learned later. Fortunately, Pete Debbage was game to climb anyway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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Where are we Naitch?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Naitch, your Ireland climbing looks beautiful and wild. The sloping-grass clifftops especially.
At Boulder Ruckle there's a trail. Very civilized, but even so I recall thinking that if
the wind knocked me over, I'd be dead.
You rap to a partly-dry talus pile at the base.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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Those really sing, Naitch. Nice eye.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So, my introduction to British seacliff climbing was to belay Pete Debbage leading
the first pitch of Vortices (E2/5c). Damp, sandy holds, small pro arranged carefully
behind fragile features, gale-force winds howling and waves thumping around me,
it felt more atmospheric than your average belay.
It was kind of what I'd imagined British seacliffs must be like.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I had anchored my belay, in hopes of not getting washed out to sea if a rogue wave hit.
Which seemed very possible. The huge boulder I was leaning against vibrated with
each strike, and occasionally larger waves came surging around both sides to soak my
feet.
So I was very relieved when Pete completed his lead and I could start climbing to get
away from the sea.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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Ha! It's comin' t'getcha.
That rock looks friable, maybe even diseased, but definitely a different color than I am used to.
Going back to early Mountain issues, before the U.S. had a monthly climbing mag, I have long had a large imagined landscape of British sea cliffs, with whirling screaming sea birds, gaping caverns, and expletive non-deleting hardmen trying to out-sandbag each other.
At our secret beguilingly moody place we don't often get into that territory. With a little help from February, though, and from an ex-Scot and an ex-Brit:
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So Andy, did you leave Robert on that little rock in the midst of the ocean? How did he get off it?
And here's a few related shots:
This one's from the same place as many of Andy's, but much earlier. The area was first explored in the mid-1980s, by climbers who swam there, and later figured out land access.
You can tell this one's from Squamish - note the log booms. Held together, as it happens, by a boom stick - there's a climb at Squamish called Boomstick Crack. I've often thought it would be nice to do a series of climbs at Squamish and name them for logging terms - Whistle Punk, Steam Donkey, etc.
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