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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2007 - 10:09am PT
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Dang bvb, so you can (obviously) do Silk Banana as well. Sheesh, for my home turf, there certainly are a lot of classics that I could never do.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 22, 2007 - 11:24am PT
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Hey, Bob, you frickin' lightweight. The way Rick P. showed me (on said Banana), you weren't allowed to grab the edge of the fruit at the end as shown in your pic, rather you had to--given that you're half a man--go to bunk face edges and huck to the top. Now go back and send it properly.
JL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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Uh-oh.
I see the makins' of a virtual brawl or gunfight in the works.
BVB/"Poway Mt. Boys" vs. the "Stone Masters" or is it the Stoned Masters? I don't recall.
Quick, all woman and children take cover.
Real men lock-n-load. Smoke um if you got um.
I think I'll just hunker down and pour myself a whiskey . . .
This is gonna be good . . .
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
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goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
p.s. -- healyje -- the problem starts way back in the flake- even tall guys like me have to do three or four pure power undercling moves before you get the kneebar -- which ain't as good as it looks. that sucker is one tough problem. you wanna hit it when you're fresh, 'cause "if one could harness the torque required to send this problem, one could concievably turn lumps of coal into shining gems."
(or words to that effect}
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 22, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
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Bob, I grew up on dimes, but at 205 pounds I had nothing on guys like Hennie and Powell and Muir and Ricky and Richard and all the rest. And there's another guy from way back (circa '71), named Ben Borson, who was also insanely good on the small change. Naturally, all of these guys were Roubidoux locals . . .
When I think of Woodson, I think of cracks, possibly the best spread of granite splitters I've ever seen in one place.
JL
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:06am PT
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'specially when those interlopers from roo-bee-doo dared come down from smell-eh to tread our holy ground!
Why was it that the 'roo-bee-doo interlopers' were always the ones who were going into the other guys hood, and not vice versa? And it wasn't any of that drive-by stuff, we always gave ya plenty of advance notice we were comin' at ya, just so you could get ready. Seems like just recently someone (bvb) was at roo-bee-doo without sufficiently informing interested locals when he was going to be there. Same as it ever was.
goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
I guess that would need to be settled at roo-bee-doo since dimes and Woodson don't go together in the same sentence.
Naturally, all of these guys were Roubidoux locals . . .
Naturally.
bvb, You just had to go and start something you can't finish. Or win.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:17am PT
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...goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
Hey Bob--I want in on this too.
Curt
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goatboy smellz
climber
boulder county
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Holy quads, calfs & bahdunkadunk!
GOOD GOD!
Klimmer, stop teasin'
We know you still have tha goodz.
Don't forget the pushups.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Mt Woodson is a very fine place. I'm making time for this place because of its local.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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I hope to make it up to Woodson this weekend.
Since I am still recovering from a tendon injury sustained back in October, I will only crack climb and wide stuff at that.
What are the best Hands, Fist, and OW cracks at Woodson? I would like to stick to stuff that is longer, since I get my rocks off of leading more so than bouldering, so please include the approx. length of the route. Right now, considering my current condition, I am really looking to do 5.8-5.10 wide crack stuff.
Thanks for the help!
Darshan
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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I did a little a research at www.mountainproject.com and here's what I found for Hands, Fist, and OW cracks in the 5.8 to 5.10- range (that are 20 feet or longer):
Robbins Boulder:
Robbins crack (10a hands) 35ft ***
Rockwork Orange Boulder:
Rockwork Orange (10a wide-hands) 40ft ***
Tower Two Area:
Tower Two Chimney (5.8 chimney) 45ft
Tower Two Crack (5.7) 35 ft
Sickle Crack Boulder:
Sickle Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft ***
Poison Oak Boulder Area:
Poison Oak Crack (5.7 offwidth) 35ft
Big Grunt (5.9 offwidth) 55ft
Elsa's Crack (5.7 tight hands) 20ft
Uncertainty Principle Area:
Eric's Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft
The Summit Area:
Crucible (10c offhands, fist, offwidth) 25ft ***
SW Crack of Ogre Boulder (5.10 fist)
The Cave Area:
John's Crack (5.9 hands) 18ft
Bat Flake (5.10c fists, forearms) 22ft ***
Greg's Crack (5.11 offwidth) 17ft
Please add to the list if you can!
Thanks,
Darshan
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Big Grunt, 5.9 offwidth/chimney 90'
Bat Flake, 10c Hands 35'(one of the greats).
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks.
I added those climbs to The List.
I presume you meant 9ft for Big Grunt, not 90?
Darshan
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
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No, I meant 90 ft, but now that I think of it, 55 would be a better estimate. It's 5.9 offwidth to get in then maybe 5.7 chimney to the top.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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Wow, that sounds like a must-do then...
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Do you have any information on these climbs?
Sunday Afternoon Boulder 5.9 hands
Grainstorm hand crack 5.9 hands
Out of Sight 5.9 hands
Monkey Crack 5.10c hands/fists
Ride the Lightening 5.10d cupped hands, wicked steep
Mariah 5.10d OW
Also, does anyone know where the San Diego Climber's Coalition Website has gone? It used to be at http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/ but now is gone and I can't even view the cached page from google... Also, when I try to use www.archive.org to view archived versions of the site, I get a message stating that the site has been blocked... http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/
Darshan
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Jan 29, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Dude your killing me, take your meds.
Grainstorm is V5otd face that should prob. be toproped
The rest of those are good. Out of Sight is stellar
Don't even ask about the website there weren't any Woodson topos there anyways.
If anyone wants to look at hard offwidth boulder problems that they've never seen before let me know. I still have a couple I haven't gotten around to doing yet.
Whats the use of listing crap your pulling out of book here with no topo.
Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Jan 29, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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I just moved to SD.
I love this thread.
My palms just go sweaty reading it.
Is it okay to chalk up in a retail store?
See at the badass splitter cracks!
OP: good TR.
-Aaron
ps: hitting up Vertical Hold gym tonight, and for sure Thurs nite if any SD climbers are still following this.
Busy during the day, so the gym will have to hold me over!
Woodson next week sometime, for sure.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 29, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
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¿"Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo"?
Where, exactly?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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wannabes.
all your sends are belong to me.
--pitansk
p.s. grades mean nothing at woodson. 5.10d = V0. so maria's OW is V0?? even tho it's overhanging, insecure, with a very bad landing, and it's 25' up before the business is over??
heh.
have at it, homeslice.
p/s -- if you like wide, go do sickle crack (first pic in this thread.)
remember, it's 5.9.
if you don't do wide cracks, bring a bro (spotters don't do you no good at 30+ feet) who has a cell phone. you can join your name to the long list of idjits who been choppered out of woodson on their way to meet the grevious angel.
watch your back, don't get in over your head. woodson ain't the happies. it's a "bouldering" area where people have died.
i'm just sayin', is all.
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