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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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WOW! Yesterday was even better than the day before.
My first session was only an hour and a half due to a business meeting.
By the time I got back to the office it was already too big in the back yard so I ate lunch then then drove to Kanaha where it was just awesome but that session was cut short due to an accident. I took three solid double over head set waves on the head and when that was over I noticed a nasty gash in the rail of my board. I never saw the other guy or the board that did this.
No fault no blame GAME ON!!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I wish I had learned to surf, but living in Oklahoma pretty much nixed that.
I remember when me and another Okie friend took his short board out for a try. All I remember is my face getting pounded in the sand along the bottom. I think we were surfing beach break with no clue.
Surfing is cool. No doubt about that.
Leavitt. He is one of those guys that is so gifted that he can do anything.
I expect him to be the first 100 year old guy to do the Nose in a day.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
(the surfing starts about 1:30, mostly skating before)
He rips.
Once again, my friend Travis, who left us years ago.
I think about him this time of year especially.
I know it's glassy for you brother.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Travis could ride anything with style(as shown in my video)but he gained notoriety through his noseriding- winning contests and being featured in magazines.
He was one of just a few riders who got free boards from the legendary surfer/shaper Donald Takayama, who just passed recently.
We had some great trips together.
On one trip to Rincon we loaded up our daily riders unaware that the Eddie Swell was on its way. On the fly. No internet.
When first light came we realized it was absolutely pumping. Many SB points were holding and all were crowded so we just figured we may as well join the shitshow at Rincon.
Our daily riders were 5'8" vintage(80's)twinnies. No cords.
Rincon was double overhead with a million seabugs and a mean current.
I made it out and just couldn't relax and have fun with the crowd and the bombs coming through, so I finally just burned some guy and got a sick one through the Cove bar, and got out.
I hung out next to the Pit where the crusty locals would sit and heckle all the kooks, and even the rippers, in the water and walking back up the point.
Trav finally caught a gem.
This was one of the finest waves, and one of the finest waves ridden, that I've ever seen.
Riding backside, where most of us would have been stalling in the barrel or running for the shoulder, Travcranked the sickest bottom turn into the smoothest most powerful S turn gouge under the lip, basically inside the tube. That move scrubbed just enough speed to let him stand in the tube for what must have been five seconds- all the way through the Cove.
The grumpiest locals stopped heckling and hooted for Trav.
We also scored El Cap (with TC out) and Pitas on that mission.
As a funny aside, I funded the trip, from my dole. We stayed in the Motel 6 at Ventura Harbor and all night there were tweekers playing with a dead seagull in the parking lot. WTF?
RIP Travis
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Once again, my friend Travis, who left us years ago.
I think about him this time of year especially.
I know it's glassy for you brother.
Jefe That's a worthy tribute to a brilliant energy my friend!
RIP Travis
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Walden Surfboards wrote:
"We are frustrated and saddened to hear that there has been another attack at "C" Street this morning, and the attack was on one of our dear friends. She is a beautiful person and passionate surfer. The bully is about 6'2, 200+ lbs., we know who he is because this isn't the first attack. What made this attack especially pathetic is this bully went after a women, and one who is about half his size.
An equally awful part of the bullying is the crew of grown men that watch and applaud the bully. It's bad enough that high school kids act like this but grown men? Where are the hero's? Where are the independent thinkers? Where is the honorable man that will come to the rescue of a victim?
For those of you who condone, support or even joke about violence in the water or worse do nothing..your followers. Not a leader among you! It's hard to be a leader, it takes guts.
To the followers... we are tired of hearing how much you hate SUP'ers, longboarder's, shortboarders, kooks, whatever your grip is....as if that justifies bullying. Save your hate for things that matter. Hate child abuse, hate poverty, etc. but don't waste your hate on a surfboard or a wave. To the haters..get out of your small world and your big ego and grow up."
We had some of that brand of drama here last weekend at Kanaha also.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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bump for surf ,yea Jefe
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Charles there's no reason for me to doubt the image's authenticity. The dude is from Oahu.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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gonna get back to cali and do both
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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as Travis demos, goofies rule the world
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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some spume.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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