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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:48am PT
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Right. Dinkyblackknobs. I think it got tried a lot but I never saw anyone even get close. A good problem starts in the left side of the blast zone and exits out onto that face via a big flat black knob. Chic and swank.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 28, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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huh, i've always walked past that black knob on the blasted boulder #2 and assumed it was like 5.10 something... whoops!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 28, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Johnny, i wish i would have known you were on the hill today, i was low on the south side extending my trail. Ive hit a boulder patch that not only has potential, its surprisingly navigable around and between the boulders, which you wouldnt expect in the location. The heinous potato is on the way out there. Give me a ring next time youre headed out.25 ft tall bombay horror show i found today. its gonna be hard.woodson continues to surprise me. Heres a little clearing in the midst of deep brush that is flat and clear enough to make a great tent site.I like it just fine way out in the bush.
John - on that blasted boulder knob problem, me, rick, greg, MP et. al. have put in some time on that thing bitd. Greg came closest to sending when he manteled the knob and locked out, but nowhere to go from there. As far as i know its one of those long standing problems thats still standing.
That face by the hippy cave is clean as a whistle, and after watching you on it and the vision, id guess its hard 5.12. Did you get the rp and does it have a name yet?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Calling the right one outside the hippy cave the Patchouli face. Did it with about 10 feet of slack on my micro-trax. For the knob problem, I started with my left hand on the knob off of a pad.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Out in JT but planning on Woodson the 31st and the 1st.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 31, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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That "pinup " gal looks like my daughter!...who, btw, just made me a grandad about four months ago.
...anyhow, I think that problem that exits out left from the blasted section is a classic Bob, with a nice runout to the top on knobs... 10b is what I always called it. Johnny and I futilely blew out our fingertips on that heinous face in the shade one day. Growing up, rumor had it that Bachar may have done that...but more than likely just that, a rumor.
An update on the rehab from my C6-7 discectomy:
The neurosurgeon cleared me "back to normal activity as tolerated" about a month ago, and its been pretty much been that, "normal" with a few new kinks to deal with. One thing that has been quite humbling is the strength in my right tricep which went from 100% to about 10%! Granted, I've been literally sedentary for past year, but I use to be a (30) push-up kinda guy, but I could barely do (3) when I got back down on my face! I'm back up to twelve now so things are looking up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 31, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Indeed Gary 'tis a fine problem. Was one of those things you always had to tick while walking by, unless you were in a hurry. 10b or c sounds about right, depending on shoes and psych.
You're a grandfather?! Man you are SO OLD. Time to take up slabbin'.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Sent a couple of my projects. (...) This is the first one. Worked on it for a couple of seasons. To me, something so blank like that is the most classic bouldering.
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