Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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Da_Dweeb

climber

Oct 10, 2013 - 04:03am PT

An enjoyable write-up Crunch. A good synopsis, an enjoyable presentation of the history (including your own history), a thoughtful proposition for future behavior on the Towers. A few typos here and there.

Well written, thanks for this.

EDIT: Also, I have a pony Gak picture...
If you want me to post it...
Gak is back...

notreallyanaidclimber

Trad climber

Oct 10, 2013 - 08:11am PT

That is Crusher's 2013 AAJ article by the way.

Thanks for putting it up in your website Crusher, and thanks for all your great contributions to this discussion, which to me goes well well beyond the Fishers.

WBraun

climber

Oct 10, 2013 - 10:05am PT

From his American Alpine Journal, 2013.

Crusher -- "A new generation in Yosemite, including Walt Shipley, Steve Gerberding, and John Middendorf, rejected trenching."

Charlie Porter years before rejected trenching also ......

Rivet hanger

Trad climber

Barcelona

Oct 11, 2013 - 04:23am PT

Thank you a lot Steve for the AAJ article. Very well written!
However, it's a little bit disappointing. I think you miss out some important things and insinuate other aspects that aren't exactly real, but as long as supertopo isn't the place to express'em, I won't. Nevertheless, one point that should be cleared since my point of view is the translation of Pelut's interview on Desnivel given the implications.
Altough my lack of deep knowledge of English language, the sentence Sí, "Intifada" para mi es la VÍA! should be translated as "Yeah!, "Intifada" for me is the ROUTE!". Translate it as the WAY (in the sense of the way to follow) isn't the sense of the sentence at all and may incline the reader to think a thing that isn't. Indeed, I think the sentence is out of context, since the question and the answer is as follows (and the knowledge about Castilian of the American aid-climbing community may be as limited as my English knowledge):

//¿Hay mucha diferencia entre esta vía y la que repetisteis el año pasado?
Sí, “Intifada” para mi es la ¡VIA! Es una línea brutal, genial, súper bien hallada. Una vía para disfrutar (siempre sin olvidar donde estas), una línea que sigue un sistema lógico de fisuras. Nuestra vía, a mi entender, es más pesada y dura. Para abrir un largo tardaba de 15 a 17 horas. Demasiado incluso para un fanático como yo.//

"¿Is there a lot of difference between this route and the one you repeated last year? Yes, "Intifada" for me is the ROUTE! It's an awsome, great line, really well found. A route to enjoy (without forgetting where you are), a line that follows a logic crack system. Our route, I think is busier and tougher. It took me from 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch."

Deekaid

climber

Oct 11, 2013 - 10:56am PT

It took me from 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch."

Maybe because all that drilling takes so long?

crunch

Social climber

Oct 11, 2013 - 11:41am PT

the sentence Sí, "Intifada" para mi es la VÍA! should be translated as "Yeah!, "Intifada" for me is the ROUTE!". Translate it as the WAY (in the sense of the way to follow) isn't the sense of the sentence at all and may incline the reader to think a thing that isn't.

Thanks for the alternative translation, River Hanger.

I think it works both as "way" and as "route." The context suggests that Palmada admires Intifada as a climb (the line, the experience, the challenge, the route, but also he admires the style, the method the way that Intifada was established.

But maybe I have that wrong.

In the American Alpine Club Journal there was a very tight limit on number of words. The version I linked to I added the original wording (and a link to the Desnivel interview) specifically to allow anyone who could speak the original language to understand better what he said.

WBraun

climber

Oct 11, 2013 - 11:46am PT

"It took me from 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch."

There it is;

It takes 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch and then it's confirmed it's A6. (heavy sarcasm) :-)

Anyways ..... kinda funny and stupid.

And I'm stupid for even giving it any thought to begin with ...

crunch

Social climber

Oct 11, 2013 - 12:03pm PT

Here's an article from Barabbas (an online climbing store in Spain) by Palmada about Hot-Parad-Ice.

Hey, Rivet Hanger, what's MO+ mean (on the topo, first pitch)?

Also, maxima vibracion. "vibracion"? Is this some spanish or catalonian climbing slang?

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Oct 11, 2013 - 12:22pm PT

... y entro en un estado de bloqueo mental...

Well, at least he was honest on that point.

Rivet hanger

Trad climber

Barcelona

Oct 11, 2013 - 12:38pm PT

No, MD+ comes from the classic alpinism rating used in Europe (sorry, don't know if you use it in the States). Originally from French TD (très difficile) translated as MD (molt difícil in Catalan and muy difícil in Castilian).
As he didn't know exactly how to rate the first pitch of Hot parad'ice since he repeated Weird Science after and trying not to awake the abnormal beast that dwells inside some individuals but at the same time as a deep sarcasm, he rated the pitch as MD+.

You can alse see the digital version of this magazine here: http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/e_cuadernos/CT_64/flash.html

I disagree on your interpretation between way and route (I may be wrong having in account English isn't my mother language). For me are clearly different things and the context leaves that clear.

Since my point of view, although the tight limits on number of words in AAj, among others, I find really disappointing that you didn't even mentioned Pelut made the SA of Weird Science...

And to others, buy Jensen's book (yeah, that object made of paper with ink marks and few drawings inside) wings of steel and if you don't get asleep after the third page yuo'll find out how much took Smith (because he made the tougher pitches, btw!) to complete a pitch on that route...

crunch

Social climber

Oct 11, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

No, MD+ comes from the classic alpinism rating used in Europe (sorry, don't know if you use it in the States). Originally from French TD (très difficile) translated as MD (molt difícil in Catalan and muy difícil in Castilian).
As he didn't know exactly how to rate the first pitch of Hot parad'ice since he repeated Weird Science after and trying not to awake the abnormal beast that dwells inside some individuals but at the same time as a deep sarcasm, he rated the pitch as MD+

Pitch 1 (MD+) is A4.
Pitch 2 (A4+) is A3, maybe A3+. That's where the video if Pelut hammering a Pecker, like, 50 times, was taken.
Pitch 3 (A3) took me about 20 minutes. It's A1+.
Pitch 4 (A4+) is A3.
The rest is up and over the caprock. The usual annoying A1/5.9

We had it pretty easy. Pelut was careful to leave holes that were usable. And so many of them that we could pick and choose, ignore the more flared ones.