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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 30, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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Cool BVB, we'll have to meet up. Hopefully we'll have the crack wired by then. (hehe) But seriously, it's cool to have a project up there that takes more than a day to get. No doubt in my mind that we will send it. Until then, it's very cool to be working something that picks up where the last crack gurus left off.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Apr 30, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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The sit start to HMT, c'mon Gary I did that BITD.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 30, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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Haha, now I know you're lyin' for you weren't even born, B.I.T.D.! Seriously, ever try it Eliot?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 30, 2011 - 05:14am PT
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Speaking of "seams"...I know someone that has a serious eye on another undone "rig"!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 30, 2011 - 08:44am PT
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I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing
Fetish Alert, fanboy.
EDIT: This thread is in dire need of some red hot smokin', (c)bone-crushing, palm sweating, finger-ripping ACTION PIKS!
bring the camera next time, boyz. and someone to use it. get up on top of that boulder across from the crack for the proper "epi" angle.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 30, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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Chris is a very good climber, but where cracks are concerned he isnt even in the same league as Michael Paul was in his prime. Few, if any were. When I see some hideous crack, I think MP.
Wouldnt ya say bob?
next weekend? i thot it was memorial day weekend. Im emailing you my number beezer, call me.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Just got off the phone...that OW has already been done. Not sure of the rating but "it's called the Mosh Pit and it's not that hard, probably 11+ (I hate it when they say that!). When I saw the finger crack, it looked to me to be a pin scarred seam that somebody hammered out for practice or something," according to my source. This finger crack was shown by Piggot to others as well as you Bob. Troy Wold of Ramona first told me of Piggot showing him the Mosh Pit, and finger crack, b.i.t.d., but I had no idea these were the same rigs until tonights phone call. Either way, the finger crack still appears to be up for grabs. Sounds out of my league that's for sure!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Chris is a very good climber, but where cracks are concerned he isnt even in the same league as Michael Paul was in his prime. Few, if any were. When I see some hideous crack, I think MP.
Wouldnt ya say bob?
next weekend? i thot it was memorial day weekend. Im emailing you my number beezer, call me.
You nailed it Ron, as I've written on this forum before, it is my belief the Vawto, in his prime, which went on for many years, was a peerless thin crack climber. He didn't do 'em all -- because there were so many you had to pick and choose -- but if he put any particular crack in his gunsights, it was just a matter of time. He sent.
My big claim to fame? I beat him at arm wrestling at a bongloading session in '77. so sw0le!
In any event, yep, I'll be in 'dago from next friday till next wednesday. Then i'll be back for memorial day. double dip dago vacations, ftw!
Talked with Rick tonight, thinking Santee on Saturday. Got my project goal identified: BLACK DOT PROBLEM. Oh, so sent!
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Nicole Grider
climber
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Eliot, Doug, Paisely, and I went up there for a half day and got this picture, entering through the fire station road.
We went to American (Fallen) Gypsy. Good stuff!
Eliot says that next time he'll bring the camera to the project
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Although the pic of the "Sand Bag" sign may look staged. It is purely a hilarious coincidence. The fire-station sells sand bags for use in Poway and the arrow points straight up to Woodson. HA!
Who knows what climb this is?
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Doug, Nico, and Eliot, let me know next time you go play out at Woodson. I'd like to start getting in more Woodson sessions. Maybe after work mid week sometime? I've also been around on the weekends more often these days...
Josh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Just got off the phone...that OW has already been done. Not sure of the rating but "it's called the Mosh Pit and it's not that hard, probably 11+ (I hate it when they say that!). When I saw the finger crack, it looked to me to be a pin scarred seam that somebody hammered out for practice or something," according to my source. This finger crack was shown by Piggot to others as well as you Bob. Troy Wold of Ramona first told me of Piggot showing him the Mosh Pit, and finger crack, b.i.t.d., but I had no idea these were the same rigs until tonights phone call.
dude. you are so contrived and obvious that it's a wonder you don't get sprains when you post.
self-awareness dab.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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So, what's the "obvious" part of this post Bob?
C. Lindner's in the house and is curious to see this new "project." Next Saturday/Sunday is good for him. He's still trying to heal up from tendonitis in his left arm but is up for a stroll up the mountain to check it out. You mind if we hook up with you, et al, Bob?
Cool pic Eliot...can't say I recognize it.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Gary, how did Chris become aware of the project? Did you call him and tell him? Does he follow this thread?
If you told him about it, why would you do that when it is clear others are working on it? Seems kinda ridiculous to me. Do you just want some glory by showing it to him? And perhaps then he could send it "thanks to you."
"I can only imagine Chris on it..."
Of course Chris can do it and of course it would probably be relatively easy for him. He's a 5.14 climber. What would it matter if he came up the hill and hiked it first try? What would that prove? Why would that matter?
Why not let people try the thing who actually climb at Woodson four to five times a week. People who go up there nearly every weekend and who actually love and respect the place (Not to say that Chris doesn't love and respect the place. I realize he's climbed there for longer than me).
If Chris wants projects on Woodson there are plenty for him. There are projects all over the hill that you, Gary, have never seen before. In fact, the last time I climbed with Chris on the hill I did show him some climbs he had never done. (Or maybe he didn't remember doing them.) If he wants some new stuff let some people show him that know the hill. Not someone who seems to be only self-serving in their manners and actions.
Edit: Sorry for the semi-rant but something struck a chord with me that I couldn't let go.
Double Edit: I have nothing against Chris personally. I've met him many times and he's always been super cool. We have many mutual friends as well. I'm just arguing that the people who have been the most active on the hill recently get a shot at sending the rig.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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So, what's the "obvious" part of this post Bob?
just yankin' your chain, gary. this kind of sh#t is tradition with climbers. but you know that.
I'm just arguing that the people who have been the most active on the hill recently get a shot at sending
eliot, i totally agree with this...in principal. i'm of three minds.
1. yep, gary is blowing smoke and trying to bump his street cred on the back of another.
2. hell yeah, out of respect if nothing else, if we have guys working the thing hard, getting standard-issue vietnam-type woodson flappers, busting through the bush to find the mutherf*#k in the first place, then might as well stay off it if you know already you're gonna hike it in a try or two. this would be like patrick edlinger say in 1988 snaking some 5.10 project from a couple of yodelers who've been working it for weeks at some off-the-wall local crag. (i took brooke sandahl to the climb that became "the sin eater" in '85 and he just waltzed right up it. i had no idea that s.d. locals had been projecting the thing, and in retrospect we prolly would have gone elsewhere if i'd known and thought it through. on the other hand the climbing world is and always has been a free-for-all and that's the way i'd like to see it stay.)
3. chris was puffing his way up that fukking road with me and tom and elke and jocelyn when he was, like, three years old. at what -- late 20's, early 30's? -- he's hands down the youngest of the oldskool locals from the mid-80's. he can do whatever he damn well wants to up there and nobody has any place to say a damn thing about it. so, whatever.
burn after reading.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Eliot, easy simba!
I became aware of this climb through another person telling me about it years ago. The person that told me was shown by someone that told him about it, and so forth. Should he have told me? Don't see why not. Did I call Chris and share it with him, yep. Is he going to go up there and do it...probably not, I've already told him that it's currently a project. Is he interested in seeing it...yep. Should I have told him about it? See the statement above. You ever meet Andrew and Kathy (asian wife)? Andrew's after it as well. He's known about it for years. Who told him? Should they have? The news continues to spread Eliot, but now it should stop because there's better climbers out there than us?
"Only by pride cometh contention:" - Proverbs 13:10. How true that is.
Edit: "Self serving"? Oh, Eliot, showing you around Santee when I met you was not for you bro, it was for my glory...shame on you. Btw, it was, "I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing." Get it right young man.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I became aware of this climb through another person telling me about it years ago. The person that told me was shown by someone that told him about it, and so forth.
jesus gary you're so full of it. you knew about it for years and you never scoped it out? never even looked at it?
too busy thinking about bolting uncertainty or doctoring the landing on hear my train? what's next, dude?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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1. "yep, gary is blowing smoke and trying to bump his street cred on the back of another."
Actually, I could care less about my "street cred". I just want to watch poetry in motion! Chris baffled me last year and I want more! I've always enjoyed watching better climbers than myself and it hasn't changed thirty years later. If he waltzed up this project, oooorah! I really don't care who's "projecting" the thing, continue with YOUR project, it's not anybody elses. Isn't the sport a personal quest, even if someone else has already done it? Every route I've done had someone do it before me but I was STOKED to just be able try it and to just be on it! I have no first ascents under my belt to my knowledge. Have I done some things that nobody else has, climbing or non-climbing? Of course I have! Some things I'm not so proud of being the first at, believe me!
Chris, in my humble opinion, doesn't care either! From what I see of him, he's not about status, he's told me so himself. He want's no part of it...and that's at the age of 26, the age of my son! Glory to God for Chris and those like him.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Bolting Uncertainty? Like I said, "I've never bolted in my life" nor would I know how to begin to do so. Did the post raise some danders? You be the judge.
I eventually got the start to IHMT from the ground with Chris last year. I'll leave the stone in situ after all.
Yep, known/heard about a lot of things up on Woodson and STILL haven't seen some of them nor tried them. I've concluded that I'll never be good enough to do a lot of the problems up there. But to hear about/watch others, like Eliot, Doug, et al, crank'em out? Put's a smile on my face every time!
What's next? Continue my quest.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Good points bvb. I agree with all of them. Again, thanks for sharing this cracks location in the first place. Sh#t, we wouldn't have even known about it without you and this forum.
I might not be sending it anytime soon. But others who have been schwacking out there with me have also been putting in days on it.
Gary, thanks for showing me Santee BITD. Sorry I was harsh and I may have used some buzz words you don't like to hear.
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