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MisterE
climber
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Why are all of the cables fubar?
Oh, right, we are not dealing with a journeyman here...
Great point, Mucci
and great find crunch!
$2700 and Spanish pride.
A volatile combination to oppose.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I wish. More like $2700. Of course, in a few weeks it could be about $15000 if Congress doesn't get its ducks in a row.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Richard,
Thanks for fixing the gallery code - I can see all the photos for the links I've tried now (through late June so far).
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Cummins, the comments were also deleted and haven't been replaced. Maybe if you ask Jensen... At least in honour of the objective facts.
And look Richy, I do clearly say that you LIED. Besides a mixture of prejudice an absolute lack of knowledge about the gear used by the FA team. You are ridiculous when you write in your own post nº 319 "Sawed-off, splintered, wooden peg. The saw marks on the wall are still visible, two years after the FA!". The saw marks! The wood wedges come cut from home, stupid!
You also are ridiculous when you claim that Pelut made drilled holes and you show photos like this:
Since you didn't even know what a lead head was (I've seen the alu and coppers you left on the ground, besides some rivets and bolts, but no leadheads; In addition you call leadheads bashies or even eurobashies!), your ignorance impeded you to realize that the holes you found were not drilled holes. As I have explained, when a leadhead is removed, the remaining hole in a soft rock like those of the Fishers is a rounded hole, that can be used again for the following party, by the way. I can agree with locals that maybe that's not a long-term sustainable method as in the case of smashing a pin against blank rock, but as Crush says, how many people are going to repeat routes like that? Anyway, that's another thread and that would have been a good critics about the route if you had respected the FA. But what you did, blinded for your perjudice, hate and ego was claiming the FA team made a hole ladder, and what's worse, when they proposed to have a meet with you repeteadly to talk about, you rejected. That's not the behavour of a honest person. I wasn't there and the photo is yours, but the red circles are, since my point of view, also candidate placements to place a leadhead, which would be rounded if FA team would have used'em.
It's also funny you claim the FA team were a couple of chickens for placing the gear every 20 inches (50 cm). As you can see in Crush and Aslaksen own photos, they do also place the gear in a similar distance. In your hard and technical WOS, your potencial long flights were assured for a rivet (which as far as I remember Ammon didn't pull out any of them although they've been there for 30 years and probably justify the A3+ rating), whereas a hard peckers or leadheads pitch would probably end with a hit-against-something (ground?) in case of even a slight mistake. As Crush said about Hot parad'ice: Two thoughts on this: it's one of the best, most sustained, technical aid pitches I've ever done, but also has a number of placements that are small holes (see the other photos) that appear to have no connection with any crack system or other feature. Bent a lot of pitons tying to make them work! Your hate impides to realize that's an acceptable way to do a SA and the following opinion/critics and even publish an article in AAJ, but acting as you did, only makes clear your prejudices and your fanatic and sick personality. Because although your absolute ignorance, I honestly think that you didn't never had the intention to do the SA in the same way FA team put up the route. You just were attract for the A6+ proposal and your inner beast or Sauron's eye as other call it, couldn't be controled.
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raymond phule
climber
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So you see holes in the spots that you have circled? I can't see any holes.
About the distance between the placements. Crusher say that he only used about half of Pelut's placements. I believe more in that than what you think that you can see in some pictures.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Pere Larocalla,
It seems you are more interested in a "fight" than in understanding the truth.
This is a "child's" approach to an argument.
The child just wants to "win" the argument.
They do not care about understanding the truth.
Did you have siblings and argue this way with them?
It is boring and meaningless to an adult, sorry.
(You are not the only one with this problem, and none of us is perfect,
but I think you would do a better job of defending Pelut if you stick with
points that make sense and not attack everything with ludicrous ideas.)
You ask the same questions over and over.
Richard has answered most of them 10 times, but you keep asking again
and ignoring the answers.
So why should he bother repeating it again if you don't read or remember what he writes?
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Yes, mine it's the only child attitude although objective facts I bring. Total lack of child's attitude when instead of respecting the original route Jensen created a new route under the absolute ignorance and some rules that even he dosn't follow (how can you blaim others of drilling if you drill in your own routes?).
Can I go now to WOS and put a bolt or rivet in every drilled placement he and Smith made? Bathooks and batheads are ccepted in Yosemite?
Come on!
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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And don't get me wrong, I'm not defending Pelut. He has enough hair in his balls to defend himself if he wants, but it's really sad the absolute lack of critics and even ovation for his actions.
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raymond phule
climber
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Yes, mine it's the only child attitude although objective facts I bring
I don't think that you bring a lot of objective facts to the issue. You just shot all over the place and some things of what you write might be correct and interested but it is hard to find those when so much is just ridiculous or completely of topic.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Rivet hanger: you're jumping the shark, man.
if you're going to troll you need to try and keep your assertions within the realm of plausibility.
posting a photo with a line of holes in a mostly hole free wall, where the holes are in a straight line and at regular distance apart and then claiming "your ignorance impeded you to realize that the holes you found were not drilled holes"?!?!? by this i'm presuming you're trying to say with a straight face that the straight line of holes was "natural"?!?!?!
hahaha. thanks for the entertainment.
errr, at least i hope your intent is to entertain.
'cause if you're not trolling and are rather mentally or emotionally stunted enough to believe the bullshit you're spewing well, then i might actually feel bad. i'd feel bad because i'm either laughing at someone who is a few bricks short of a load as they say, or maybe a twelve year old climbing fan of pelut's who hasn't been let down by his heroes yet.
regardless, i sincerely hope you're a bored american working the night shift on a mind numbing corporate job somewhere in the midwest, and are just trying to give yourself a few laughs at the expense of strangers.
'cause if you're really a spaniard, with a modicum of climbing experience and intelligence and you can't see through your own bullsh#t, i feel sorry for you. you've definitely got a tough row to hoe in this lifetime.
in case you are serious: while you might have a point about some of madbolter1's tactics, you completely undermine your own position, when you continue to blindly argue bullshit that can actually be smelt over the internet.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Thank you, nah000.
I wrote Bozeman but I could have written Knoxville...
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Rivet hanger wrote: "Thank you, nah000.
I wrote Bozeman but I could have written Knoxville..."
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. i haven't laughed this hard in a while.
i respectfully bow to your mastery of the dark arts.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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The ones on Harry Potter?
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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hahaha.
you are seriously the hero we need but not the one we deserve...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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RH: Can I go now to WOS and put a bolt or rivet in every drilled placement he and Smith made?
Now that would make for a particularly entertaining sequel to the movie.
I say go for it!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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instead of respecting the original route....
There IS no respecting the original "route," because there WAS no "original route." A line of drilled holes (regardless of what you put in them) is not a route.
This is the one and only point that matters in this whole discussion. Everything else is peripheral to this one, crucial point! And it is the one point you seem determined to never understand.
Oh, and (ROFL), I would URGE you to take a stab at WoS, since you seem so fixated on it. And, yes, PLEASE go ahead and fill all the unfilled holes you find... fill them with bolts, rivets, wooden wedges, lead-heads, or whatever you wish. Just let us know when you're gonna make the attempt, because I want to come meet you and video your effort. If you can make it up 60 feet (that's about 20 meters), I'll salute you. Seriously: 20 meters. Let's see what you've got. For all your TALK, let's see if you've got 20 meters of WoS in you.
Since we ALL know that you don't have it in you, let's get settled on the ONE and only point that matters: a line of drilled holes is NOT a route, is NOT respectable, is NOT A6+, is NOT worthy of any awards or money, and is NOT worth talking about any more.
I'm done.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Thank you for saying that. Given the differences we've had, I really appreciate that from you. All the best to you!
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 10, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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Richy, the difference between you and normal people is that only a sickminded does what you did...
It will be funnier to put a new route claiming A7 rating and wait your webpage report and laugh aloud at your comments about eurobashies and wood remains. I still doubt about the name of the route between "I see saw marks on the wall" or "Are bathooks and batheads holes to fill?"...
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 10, 2013 - 03:39am PT
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Rivet Hanger, it's over.
At this point all you're doing is making Richard look better for having such a rabid troll as yourself on his heels.
It's time to walk away before I reveal that you and I are actually the same poster.
But since I know you won't, in the above picture, which of the adorable baby swans are YOU?
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