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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 28, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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I think my right hand is in the first sinker lock
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 28, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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The boulders of the southern playground continue to amaze me. The rock quality is superb, and there are big juicy plums everywhere waiting to be picked. I added a link from split rock down to 49th street, a clean as a whistle face with lots of climbs in the V1-3 range. Way cleaner and better quality than I remembered, well worth a visit.
To get into the southern playground, either take the trail uphill from slant crack, or start in the playground and go east from syncopation, past a 12 foot tall gumdrop called the mantle pill (think you can mantle? the mantle pill will set you straight). You cant miss the trail.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 04:34am PT
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"OK, had a memory flash -- an epiphany, even -- last night. It's entirely possible that piggot took me to that tips crack by striking out west past rockwork orange."
Okay, I'm a bit confused now...Bob originally thought it was near Starface then he had an "epiphany" (see above) that it was west of Rockwork Orange. Then Doug says that Bob was "right on the money" that it was "10 minutes west of Starface." So, where is this thing?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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gary, you're always confused.
reading comprehension, pal. learn it, know it, love it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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Robert, Robert, Robert...come on, help this "confused" guy out...west of Starface or west of Rockwork Orange?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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my god. gary, you're the only person reading this topic who simply cannot sort things out. put down the crack pipe, bro.
here's a hint, because it pains me to deprive the developmentally disabled of assistance. so, check out the posts dated 4/26/11 at 12:04am, and 4/26/11 at 12:08am.
if you still can't answer your own question, might i suggest a language tutor. or at least paying closer attention.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
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Ok Robert, just scrolled back and re-read the thread from the first mention of said problem. Ten minutes west of Starface it is. Your "epiphany" and then Doug's confirmation threw me. Thanks for your patience.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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Note to self: don't use big words like "epiphany" in threads Gary might read.
<end transmission>
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Apr 28, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
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BVB b.i.t.d. Lycra era
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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Looks about right to me, Rick. That Tranny is sw0le!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
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and for those who luv the wyde, don't neglect to note that overhanging bomb-bay chimmney to squeeze to off-width to fist in the back there...piggot and i always meant to try it but always wound up blowing our wads on the seamrippper thin crack. lockless monster. spot-on name. i like that.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Apr 28, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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don't neglect to note that overhanging bomb-bay chimmney to squeeze to off-width to fist in the back there
Greg...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 29, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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sinker lock
"sinker". heh, that's a good one. i like your attitude doug!
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Apr 29, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Anyone seen a wild pig in San Diego they say they are near eagle peck?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 29, 2011 - 02:29am PT
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We did see the bombay; but I mean, come on, OW vs. finger crack!?
It really does look good though (and probably quite hard). Greg, you would be the man (beast?) for the job.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 30, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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A woman driving a pickup hit two feral hogs that ran onto poway road, near the junction with hwy 67. She said she got out to look and they both got up and ran off. She was quoted as saying that she lives on a ranch and knows hogs, and that they were both at least 300 lbs. (from SD union tribune).
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 30, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Day 2 progress report:
The first move is hard. The second move - haven't gotten there yet.
Lock Less Monster is really ridiculous. To give some context, earlier this year, on my first TR lap, I did all the moves of Stingray (13d/14a). Same trip, Eliot nearly redpointed (lead) Astroid Crack (12d/13a). Woodson cracks aren't routes at JTree so it's hard to compare, but basically you were right BVB, this is INSANE! No doubt this thing's 12+/13a
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 30, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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you're right. woodson cracks, especially thin cracks, are mutant. basically ungradable. and that rig is the most mutant seam ripper i ever tried at woodson.
it's gonna be a sw0le tick.
p.s. i'll be in san diego for five days next weekend.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Apr 30, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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I just called the Huber bros. and my buddy TC (Tommy Caldwell) to come try to free the thing. Who knows if they'll succeed though...
Honestly though that first move is frickin' heinous. It'd be great to get some input when you're down here.
After two days and about 10 tries it goes...
Right hand-pinkie down in first pod.
Left hand-gaston edge.
step right foot on to one of two tiny edges
pull up
fall off
Of course I might just get my girlfriend to send it since she's more sw0le than both of us...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 30, 2011 - 02:22am PT
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I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing...maybe I'm just a little bias but that kid did some amazing things last year at Woodson...then again, I've never seen Chris, or anyone else, climb at that level before! Did you guys ever try the sit start to IHMT?
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