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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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The original Spike route on Beacon Rock with a team of5 .
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Cool to see parkline getting some face time.
Looks like a great day there ED!
Munge- NOOOOOOOTS!!!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I had called Caught Inside earlier in the week and made some tentative plans to go to Table Rock aka DTSA on Saturday if I could manage to get all of my work (real work aka job related) done. Friday night at about 9 PM I had wrapped up what I felt was required, and slapped the drill battery on the charger. Game on!
The plan was to meet at the parking lot at ~10:00 AM, but I woke up early so decided to head out and start working on a new route. Got to the lot at 8:30, was at the crag a little before 9:30. It was a rude reminder of how tough that trail can be carrying a 70lbs full of sh#t to develop! Went do to the Lair to add a route down there. This wall could use a few more to get people down there given its current count of 4 routes: 1 project, 1 5.10a, 5.10b, and 5.10c. The 5.10b, Internet Superhero, is really worth the walk down and is a long 9 bolt fun line about up a steep corner system.
The south side of the little amphitheater would definitely take some routes as well, so my choice was either ground up bolt something on the new wall, or fill in an obvious line next to Ginormous (10a). I decided to fill in the line since I was solo and it is easier to rope solo up a previously established line, the bolt ground up solo. Roped up and rope solo'd to the already established anchors. Rapped down the new line and tossed in one bolt for a directional. Anyone who has developed on MSH knows the deep earth mining that is required, so I began the up and down the route 20 plus times cleaning, TR'ing to mark bolt placements, re-cleaning etc..
It was a beautiful day and the sun was warm but no too hot. After 2 hours or so, I started hearing voices over the other side of the cliff and yelled a greeting to Dave. Their plan was to climb around the Iron Curtain and Shock Block routes. While I would've loved to climb with them, my goal was a new route before anything else. Continued working on the line for a few more hours, yeah no joke - hours, then wrapped off feeling like I had done the line justice from a cleaning perspective.
Trekked over to where Dave and the others were climbing and managed to snap a few shots. It was awesome to sit back and watch Cory and James work their way up Aloha Patrol (4 pitches). Can't do this anywhere else from a sport climbing perspective in the Bay!
Dave had done a good job preparing them for the chossiness and all 4 of the new DTSA'ers said it was not nearly as bad as Dave described and they really enjoyed the climbing. I guess the theory of the routes cleaning over time is true eh? /wanting to say more but wont :)
I recruited Dave to give me a quick hitch for the FA of the new route. I was pretty tired from all the jugging and cleaning on the route, but I was sure the line would go pretty moderate, and it did.
Not a mega classic but really fun on huge holds and with a nice cruxy little bulge mid-route. Cheese Us 5.9 is open for business!
We stayed at the crag a few hours more while Dave proceeded to tear up the place, nice going Dave! He is definitely climbing strong right now! As the light was fading, I turned and snapped a quick shot of the sunset before the slog / hike back out.
Ahh yes, the DTSA is good... I certainly can see the temptation to keep this place all to ourselves, but honestly, with that hike, the choss, and closer to the road options, feel that it will never be "zoo'ed". We'll see I guess :)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Got out in the Clarks Fork Yesterday and did some skinning in the Big Horns on the way home today.
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perswig
climber
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Summa this mossn'choss.
Dale
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Really should be skiing.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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AZ, Cochise Stronghold, Sqauretop (west side), Cragaholic's Dream... AWESOME! (5 days ago or so with Nestor....) May do a little write up of sorts because it was pretty cool... but for now:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nice work posting up people! I love seeing the different rock and ice pitches out there, they are all so beautiful in their different ways.
I have been enjoying the snow medium more of late because conditions have been awesome. The temps have risen lately again in Squamish, which led me to hit up the Little Smoke Bluffs yesterday afternoon.
I showed up just as Luke was about to lead Jangling Balls Wall, 11b
Unlike me, Luke has been soloing and climbing alot lately, but still wasn't quite ready for the route..
I got a quick ride on Health Hazard, 10a
Kyle Korroll photo
Look forward to more excellent photos and tales...
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Hey, what about that write up Gal?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Last weekend I was fortunate to have my first encounter with Ice at Big White ski resort. The have a 60 foot man made ice tower attraction there so I had to check it out.
Me on the Big White Ice Tower
Random Kid
My beautiful girlfriend
Girls sending Ice
This thing was super fun and Ice is awesome to climb but I would still be super intimidated to lead it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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It was man.. Super fun.. Wicked training for your backyard... Just four telephone poles, some 2x10's for cross braces and a couple pipes coming out the top, then turn them on and spray it down when it gets cold.
Bad light for the photo but here is the overhang on the left side
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Ice farming is cool. Heh heh.
Climbed a super chandellered pillar tonight on the mini traxion. Pumpy. Light seemed to be fading and fear growing so only got in one lap.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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Feb 19, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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Yesterday was GLORIOUS in North Carolina!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Did some bouldering at Estes Creek. Beautiful day. Second day on rock since about Thanksgiving.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 19, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Bouldering on Wildwood Pebble in Burbank. Too cool for pictures. So awesome it might crack your screen.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 25, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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Bull Taco (5.10d) A new crack climb...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 26, 2012 - 06:41am PT
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Frankenstine NH nice snowy wintery day in a winter that has not had much snow. Hobbit Coulior 4+ Wicked cool route!
then we did Pegasus with the rock finish. the pillar to the rock finish was much steeper than it's normal 3+
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