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Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Nov 25, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Thanks Jim. That's the big problem with telling stories - trying to make them bearable in less than several thousand words is a big struggle for people like me at the best of times. It's interesting that you mention Daryl's quiet side, since I can clearly remember that he tried his hand at writing stuff, at least in his earlier days.

You're right, Relic - a vigorous thumping would have been a useful public service, but most climbers I've hung around with seem to be reasonably non-violent, which may explain why someone hasn't finished the Dibble off by now, and there's probably a law or something against that kind of thing, not to mention that time spent in the slammer cuts into fun time at the precipice.

Hey, Greg - do you remember the time I almost made Daryl cry? You & Blair were out at East Sooke Park with Daryl & myself. We decided to grab some lunch & I whipped out a bottle of beer, which I passed around until it got to Daryl - who would not give it back. Soon it became obvious that he planned on finishing it off, and my earnest but lame threats weren't doing much good. He took another swig and put the bottle down within easy reach. I was seething, since I had carried the damn thing in myself, etc. Anyway, while Daryl was chortling away, I picked up a rock and heaved it at the bottle, which shattered into a thousand pieces, spilling all that precious beer into the ground. He was truly speechless. I was truly satisfied. Made my day.
MH2

climber
Nov 25, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Pretty good storytelling, and I think there's even a moral in there, too. Aesop would approve.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 25, 2011 - 04:05am PT
Great stuff, Stewart. I give thanks for your efforts on this thanky holiday. The Dibble story was really enjoyable and relax, your writing isn't boring at all. Go ahead, stretch it out a bit.
Timmc

climber
BC
Nov 25, 2011 - 09:49am PT
Good stuff Stewart- keep it coming!
Auto-X Fil

Mountain climber
Nov 26, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
Bumping political garbage off the main page.
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Dec 4, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
Hi gang: Sorry for the endless delays re: the photos & story about the Zodiac epic. I suppose I could keep offering excuses, but I'll merely ask for (and thank you for) your patience. I'll try to come across with something soon.

Just for an atmospheric memory of the '70s, I do remember that after Daryl & I had finished the day's adventures we would grab some beer and watch people on Grand Wall, which was a Grade V in those days. Anyway, it appeared that the vast majority would make it as far as the top of the Pillar. More often than not, that seemed to be the stimulus for what would often appear to be an animated discussion followed by the start of a series of rappells(sp?) back to the deck. By the way, the word "rappel" also means to recall a falcon (reference: the Compact OED), which I suppose kind of fits.

Incidentally, when Daryl & I climbed Grand Wall, we came across a "summit register" on the flats (I think) that was crammed with accounts written by previous ascensionists. What made me remember the book so clearly was an earlier account of a climb by a guy who climbed it with his wife (or girlfriend) and bivvied there. Let's just say that it appears as though they didn't spend the evening sleeping, and I have wondered to this day if the female half of that team got around to reading the (graphic) account left for posterity by her companion.

Yessir, those were the days.

P.S.: Mighty Hiker, perhaps the safest comment I could make about the Dibble is that your candidate (at the very least) is someone who shares a septic tank full of the same DNA.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Yes, there was some sort of logbook in the Pardoe Hut on Dance Platform. I wonder what became of it? Perry?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:16am PT
Although I do know what happened to the much busticated remains of the Pardoe hut, I have no idea what happened to the register. Chewed up by snafflehounds? Absconded by itinerant history buffs?
No se.
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 5, 2011 - 10:28am PT
What was the reasoning to the removal of the hut?
was it in bad shape?

luke
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
IIRC, the Pardoe Hut was badly damaged by falling ice, between the time it was built (1970 or so) and when it was removed in the late 1980s. Maybe some rocks, too - although ice is a kind of rock. With heavy storms and lots of freeze-thaw, there is a lot of ice and snice plating the rock of the upper Chief, which comes plummeting down when it warms up.

Also, the climbers on El Cap were getting envious, because we had a hut on our cliff and they didn't.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 24, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
(This thread is now a total of 25 MB, if you download it all at once.)
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Dec 25, 2011 - 02:08am PT
Beauty Xmas eve shot MH!

Cheers!

A.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 25, 2011 - 10:21am PT
Nice shots MH! Looks like you went for a wee hike last night. Merry Christmas
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 25, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
No hiking was needed, on a quite rainy day. Simply had to drive to my brother's house in the highlands, and take a few photos. Well, OK - I had to pay attention. There were distractions.
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 25, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
awesome pics anders, and thanks for the reply as to the (rise and) fall of the pardoe hut. Is there anything in the master plan that prohibits another cabin from being erected on the dance platform?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 4, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
I'd have to look at the master plan to see. Whether or not it allows reconstruction of the Pardoe Hut, anything built on Dance Platform gets a fearful pummelling from falling ice and rocks. Also, it may not be something that's used a lot - most parties seem to either scuttle off Bellygood, if they lack time or intestinal fortitude or both, or continue if the stars are aligned.

I'm darn sure that the master plan prohibits gondolas anywhere in the park, though, including to Dance Platform. No waltzing around that one.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 17, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
Bump for the original Squamish Gold!

Stewart- Any luck with the Zodiac tale?

Any hut on the Dance Platform does seem ill fated...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 6, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Bump for history!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 5, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Bump
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 15, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Some sad news which recently came my way. Richard (Dick) Willmott, who made the first ascents of Snake and Clean Corner in 1962, died last summer. He was 82.
http://www.gulfislandsdriftwood.com/obituaries/?cmpRegion=&paper=172&name=Willmott&paperSelect=172&submit=Search+obituaries
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