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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Nice film Micronut! Makes me want to see a longer version - a climb, then the pools, another climb, more pools, more...
Also, the rock on the photo above of Intrepid Voyage looks amazingly clean in the photo Tork posted. Is it as clean as it looks?
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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susu,
Nah it's a pile of choss like all of Shuteye....
T minus 51 minutes and counting till I depart!
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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Yeah Micro! Nice Video!
I am gonna hit up LE this week and see what all the fuss is about.
If I make it past the pools!
See you guys at one point or another!
Mucci
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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Kev - Just keep teasing us and you'll have us crowding you guys in no time! s
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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T minus 51 minutes and counting till I depart!
You suck Lost Eagle eggs, kev! JEALOUS!! :/
Beautiful vid of LE, Micro! You captured the pools beautifully!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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I see Tom Slater's NorCal guidebook is out (Maximus Press is selling it). 'California Road Trip' retails at $49.95. Nice shot of Grahm on the front!
Randy.....can you make it out Labor Day weekend? Hoping to get a good "hero" shot on Three Feathers! HAHAHAHAHA!!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 24, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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I'll email you, JR. I reckon you are referring to the thin friction climb "God In An Alcove" 5.10c
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 24, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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"Randy.....can you make it out Labor Day weekend? Hoping to get a good "hero" shot on Three Feathers! HAHAHAHAHA!! "
Hard to say, mooch. I'm supposed to possibly be working with Kris on a project and also a friend of mine has asked me about a shoot on El Cap. That week is filling up fast! Chat me up on FB or shoot me an email so we can chat about it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Aug 26, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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Trip reports are due on my desk first thing in the morning!!!
You know who you are.
And don't forget the pics!
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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We're swillin right now preping for our 35 pic masterpiece!!!!
Not to worry Brah - you're in it too :)
kev
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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bring it!!!!
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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So you asked for it!
First off I want to say thanks to everyone for comming to the KevFest! Thanks for everything all. A special thanks to John and Sue my shuteye buds for 13 weeks in a row!!!! You two ROCK!
Also want to add a 'Kick Ass' to Tork for the fun day and to Bluey for the B-day entertainment value!
Ok so here it is............
The fully stocked camp. Not all the adult beverages are pictured but this gives you an idea of the proper preparational efforts.
Mucci way to excited, modeling the beer bucket.
A typical meal professionally prepared by the iron chef Mucci.
Really the whole trip was a carcathon.
A few photos of the Beagles Nest...
The FA of 'Poultry in Motion' 5.7 (? - we've been called sandbaggers so you go climb it and let us know whacha think!)
The FA of 'The Will to Live' 5.10a. The name comes from comments made after lowering of the second bolt. The belayer MUST bring his A game and jumping skills to the belay.
Jeff doing the second Ascent of 'The Will to Live' a day later.
Don't blame us for the rating it was Jeff's call!
First bolt on another project after the patented Mucci slide.
Jeff drilling by hand - Josh and I are wondering when he'll toss aside his Bosch just as he's wondering when we'll pick one up!
Kev preping for the FA of P-Crack 5.8 OW. Mooch, notice i took your beer recomendation!
Sportin the wood!
The start...
Obligatory photo of Crunchy Corner 5.9 (done a few weeks prior).
Ok everyone, we're taking a beers break (no that was not a typo...and this realtime during the production of the TR...)
Ok were back now.
So a few months back I put up
Phat Beagle Booty Wants to Take a Dump (5.7).
I had to stop at the Death Dump. Since the climb felt unfinished I sent Josh down to flush the load. Here's the video of the flush - the climb has been renamed 'The Loose Stool' 5.7.
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Next up for your viewing pleasure...Yours truly putting in the second set of anchors down the left side of the Beagle. Two raps with a single 70m gets you down...Looks like I had a lot of beer for breakfast that day....
I earned this one.
Late in the day some day - chillin.
A typical evenings entertainment consisted of nature walks showing a few of the shuteye locals. We had 10 of the little suckers in our site one night. Not to worry we later learned of their high caloric value.
Followed by Sylvester the puddy cat. Susu, don't look at this.
A typical rest day.
Screw Gilligan and his little dingy - we set sail on the FA of 'The Titanic.' It's the chimney/crack system going half way up Grey Eagle.
Me cleaning to the new anchors on the Iceberg Ledge. You remember what happened to the Titanic with the Iceberg don't ya?
So sitting on the Iceberg, Josh start telling me that the A3 lead is mine. WTF I think, I've never nailed, only climbed two easy walls and he's the self proclaimed God of aid. I respond 'A3 is not my fortay!' So Josh tensions left to the corner and begins the scariest 2 hours of our lives. As he heads up to 'The Sail' (the big f*#koff detached flake in the photo below), I hear moans of fear from josh and moans of our deaths from the flake. Midway into A3 expando nailing Josh yells 'I've got to throw a few hooks, hang on.' I can hear the wimpering as he drills a bolt from the last hook. With the bolt in place suddenly he yells 'Kevin extend your leash and move to climbers left! CLIMBERS LEFT - THIS THINGS GONNA BLOW!!!!!' I immediately light up what appears to be my last cig of my life and tell him to stop f*#king hammering. The dust settles, the flake moans more then seems to go back to it's nighmareish sleep. Josh lowers off the bolt, leaving all the half driven baby lost arrows in place too scared to clean them. We will finish this over labor day weekend :) And now you know the story of 'The Sail.'
On our rest days we did a bit of exploring...And it payed off.
Some goodies around here.
Obligatory B-day Bluering shoot.
B-day weekend begins...
Susu leading the second ascent of Gray Ham and Chicken Heads (Grahm's new line.)
Josh rapping it later. Mucci says 'Susu you're his hero!'
Me on my birthday starting up yet another Owl Wall project, 'The Golden Shower.'
Check the the B-day post that Mooch started for the after party pics....
Here's a topo of a route we did a month or so ago just incase you're interested in checking it out - seriously we want to know how you think it should be rated.
Sadly I'm back to home, taking a rest weekend (WTF - you thought i could keep up this pace all year? I had to take one weekend off to clean house (my truck) - not to worry I'm back for 4 days the holiday weekend!
G'night all!
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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Unbelievable, A fine TR on what was the best 11 days of my climbing career!
Way to go Kevman!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:26am PT
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yep, 100% badass!!!!!!
I had a great time. One of those pieces of wood seemed to have a .40 caliber hole splitting it (after I got there).
How did that happen? Good times!!!!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:02am PT
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nice rock. crazy peeps. :)
FYI, it may not be the first, but Gerry (tiki-jer) has a shorty sporty route on Fresno Dome called "Golden Showers", est. in 1992.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:13am PT
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Damn, Tiki beat us to it by 17 years! Great name.
Where is Tiki, haven't seen him around lately?
That guy is one cool cat.
Mucci
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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Good work boys, A+!!!!!!!!!
Heading out there today. Planen on getting back on Gray Matters, that big ass chimney above the Hellion.Wish me luck.
Jeff
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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Love you guys! Totally faithful to it all. Hoping we can hook up on Labor day. Jealous on this end.
Kev-- you buccaneer! you've earn 5 mooch points by converting to the "dark side". HA!
Davey wanna try scary A3 root!!!
Good job guys.....and gal!!
As for Tiki-Ger.....he's been working a bunch and putting some focus on his family. Working on getting him up there on Labor Day. Want you guys (kev, tork, john, mucci, sue and crew) to check out a formation. Will email Kev.
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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Tork,
Nice route names - love Gray Matters!
kev
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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Sweet TR! Kev earns the honorary local award this year. Your prize is more wide crusty cracks. You know you love em!
Those scorpions are huge. In the years I have been up here I have never seen them that big. Guess your just lucky. I don't know about eating them though!
Congrats to Sue on getting the second on the first pitch of Grey Ham and Chicken Heads. Bad ass.
Keep the FA's coming all. I'll post some pics up when I get a chance too.
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