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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 20, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
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Had another stellar day at Egyptian Ridge on Saturday. Rick and I finally had the chance to climb the corner system that splits the Spinx down the middle. The warm weather meant climbing in the shade would be preferable so we headed down the north side of the formation and around to the toe of the Sphinx located on the west side. Looking up the route, which is the most obvious line on the wall, it takes a direct line to the summit. A massive roof halts upward movement on the final pitch but it appeared that it is possible to avoid the feature and continue to the top on the right side.
Overall we were stoked on the quality of the line. Clean cracks and great belay ledges made this a four star route. Note there are a few blocks on the route I would avoid at all cost. Below is a description of the route.
3-19-16
King Tut
5.10 3 pitches
FA Laine christman and Rick Sumner
P1- Climb up easy rock to a left slanting hand crack. Traverse the arching crack and lieback to easier terrain (5.9). Continue up the corner to a stance below a large roof. Step over onto slick stone and place gear in the finger crack below a short, steep section of face, right of the main corner. Fired the finger crack utilizing a hand crack in a flake that's up and right (5.10). Watch the flake though, as the point of attachment looks minimal. Belay at the ledge via two pins and small cams.
P2 - Continue up the stellar finger/hand crack in the corner to a massive roof (5.9). At the roof follow a hand crack out the right side of the roof. Belay at the ledge.
P3 - Continue up the corner into an off width. A #6 is needed to protect this section. Follow the crack trending right. Gooding jamming in a chimney/corner leads to the top. Belay using finger sized cams.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 20, 2016 - 10:41pm PT
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Stellar Looking ,
Great to see you getting after it.
I said it Before. . .
the climbing, the positions,
it has so got me, still,
Hhaha X s everywhere, I used to feel obligated
X marks the spot . . . Yeah, corny but .,. .
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 20, 2016 - 10:43pm PT
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On a crag with many a quality climb this one stands out as one the very best. Certainly it takes the most striking line with the lone exception of the yet to be done double roof route. This route was done in pure style; no preinspection, no bolts, no falls, with Laine firing it with little hesitation and artfully placed protection points. I kind of think there is a couple 5.10 sections at the bottom and top of pitch two. Now that this cherry has been picked I feel the best routes within my ability have been done and I can move on to other (unknown and untrodden crags) equally good nearby formations without regret of missing a great fa. Thanks Laine.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 21, 2016 - 09:34am PT
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Jeff.... Not Nevada
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 21, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Did you get those shots with a drone Jeff Constine? Awesome angle.
By the way the op says nevada and elsewhere. Obscure crags anywhere I think are appreciated.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Nice job gents. I'm a little jealous. No worries though, plenty of lines to go out there.
Ain't just Nevada... there's stuff off the beaten path everywhere. All are welcome.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 21, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
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John, left of Tut is Tut's Mama and Papa-the two sidewall cracks between Tut and NW Buttress. They've got your name written all over them. Also, that new crag with the mega classic crack system, bigger than the Sphinx and just as good of rock.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 22, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 22, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Anyone repeating King Tut should use extreme caution at the "use at your own risk" flake at the top of pitch 1. I don't recommend using it for protection or pulling on it in any other way than via handjam. I examined it fairly closely while Laine was establishing belay 2 and I could have, and probably should have, trundled it. This section would still go without the flake via a left hand pinky lock and lieback maneuvers in the 5.11 range.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 23, 2016 - 08:24am PT
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It would be a shame if that flake came off (and dangerous for anyone below). I'll inspect it a bit more next time. Perhaps an epoxy job is in order.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 23, 2016 - 10:18am PT
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Scrappy Crag here.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 23, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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That's right Laine we talked about it. Would take a large quantity of epoxy and perhaps bolting and chaining it to the wall for an extra measure of safety.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Four of us made it out this past Sunday to the Sphinx and climbed Steppin' Out, King Tut, Orange is the New Black, and Washoe Zephry. On King Tut, my partner and the other team both opted for the loose 5.9 alternative section to gain the pitch 1 belay station. This involves stemming straight up the corner then moving horizontally right to the belay ledge atop pitch 1 rather than moving right onto the face and pulling the slick 5.10 underneath the belay ledge. While a bit easier, much caution should be used going this way.
I also inspected the flake/crack that protects the 5.10 crux of K.T. just below the pitch 1 belay and it's actually quite solid.
The Sphinx formation is now equipped with two rap stations that, with a 70m rope, will get you down to the base of S.O / K.T. To do this, approach the top of Washoe Zephry, set an equalizer on the bolted anchor and rap down to the ledge at its base (35m exactly). Move left to another rap station (with rings) that takes you down to the base of the formation. Climb a route to the summit and clean your upper anchor set up.
Cheers,
Laine
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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A little bit of Saline appreciation, it's starting to get a little too warm or at least it will be in the next month or so but I am going to try and get out one more time.
That last photo also shows Monkey Tranquilizer, 5.9, it takes the obvious crack system on the right side of the picture. First pitch takes the shaded off width and the second takes the hand crack off the ledge. Two raps to the ground from the top. Bolted rap stations.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I drove up 376 from Tonapah yesterday and was amazed by the Wild Granites.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2528821&tn=120
They are somewhat more extensive than previous posts show, although the best is clearly in the middle.
Just to the south is a whole other group.
And lots of challenges another few miles north, although the rock doesn't look quite as good.
I had driven up to the old mining town of Ophir, a few miles to the south. Although the road is a steep 4-wd challenge & fords a small creek about 6 times, it wasn't dangerous. Granite on both sides of the canyon, but I didn't have any routes call out to me. Anyway I was there to see the old mines & ruins.
Ophir's boot hill is at the mouth of the canyon, but apparently was a popular place, due to the great views.
In fact people were "dying" to get in there.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Good job Laine. The rap approach probably saves 15 minutes of time threading your way down through the fourth class boulders to the base. So, you did four of the best routes all in a day, now which is the best on the rock?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 11, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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My daughter may be moving to Boise to go to school next year. I been going up hwy 95 for years and may be going more often. Always wondered about climbing and wanted to camp up in the range just east of Hwy. Can any one shed any light on this area.
Thanks much,
Jeff
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 12, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Yea, it saves you at least 15 minutes if not more -- plus you don't have to bring any approach shoes on the climb (tho I know you don't anyway, Rick). The main benefit is it is much less dangerous than walking around. I know Tyson can attest to the treacherous nature of that deproach. Let's not forget about how it also protects the delicate ecosystem out there.
I'd have to say the best rock from bottom to top is on Washoe Zephyr. That thing is soooo clean. A great lead for those looking to get into off-width climbing. Nice job on that one, John.
Edit - The best line overall is King Tut IMHO. That dihedral pitch is intimidating from below, but a pleasure once you're plugged in.
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