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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Yeah, my first thought was that it looked kind of tall, then seeing the hand confirmed that. So attempts were made on it?
Was the approach from Starface or Rockwork Orange?
Still waiting on confirmation from bvb I guess. That looks a little taller than he seemed to be remembering. Regardless, looks like a great one.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 26, 2011 - 02:59am PT
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Yep, that'd be me standing at the base. I wouldn't exactly describe it as not highball...it'd be a similar picture with body parts all over place if you were sans rope and blew it on any of the upper moves. An onsight (no experience/beta) would be so BOLD. BVB, were you guys planning on bouldering it out?
We approached from Starface. We set up a TR (the rope hangs in space) and traded attempts. Super steep, leans a ton, and the few feet are small and in hard to use locations. The best beta we came up with is a mono ring finger jam with middle finger stacked on top. (think the first jam on Hear My Train, but not as good and without the feet) Basically it's super bad ass!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:04am PT
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that is most definately it. where did you find it?!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:05am PT
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Oh, and "lockless monster" was just a play on words on your Loch Ness Monster comment (although I do kinda like it). I went with "lock" because it seemed appropriate. And "monster" cause it ripped a huge chunk out of my finger. BVB, did you guys have a name for it?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:08am PT
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you were right on. 10 minutes west of starface, no trail.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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no name. just....that...f*#king...finger-ripping...crack. i got about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up it, if memory serves. don't remember getting any monster gobis but you know how those 25 year old memories are: euphoric recall.
too bad we can't get piggot in on this.
So attempts were made on it?
several forays, henny. this was right before joc and i moved to yosemite so it did not become the righteous project that it deserved to be. don't know if piggot ever went back, or if he ever took anyone else there, because since i was going there (in late 86 - early 87), i've never heard anyone whisper a word about the thing. it's been patiently waiting for some mutant to git' er done.
is the landing as flat as i remembered? the ground sort of tiled with bits of exfoliated flakes?
vauge memory of going there with epi once. we'll have to ask him if he recognizes it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:29am PT
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things are coming back now. hey doug, would a cheatstone make the first move dramatically easier and actually get you established on the thing?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 26, 2011 - 03:56am PT
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Check out these kids banging thru the brush! Im impressed! Finally some climbers who aint afraid of gettin stickers in their sox.
Keep up the good work lads
On that crack thing, find me an 18 foot tall cheater stone and i just might tick that puppy off
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Apr 26, 2011 - 04:21am PT
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This thing would be a bold solo, but doable. The ground is tiered with some exposed boulders. If you came off the top you'd hit a big one. There were some plants growing around the base that we had to remove.
One of the cool things is that the crux is low. It's pretty much the very first move with each consecutive move easing up ever so slightly. So in that respect it could be highballed as long as you kept it together after pulling the crux. A cheat stone would help a lot and allow someone to get established on the climb.
Oh and the rock is bullet.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 11:21am PT
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How cool is that, bvb?
I caught your play on words Doug. Seems like a pretty good name to me also, given the thread flow. Whatever it ends up being I'm sure a good name will be picked. The brush looks pretty dense.
Wow bvb, that's a razor sharp memory you have there - hehe. Pretty cool.
Now get 'er done... Pictures are still mandatory of course.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Wow bvb, that's a razor sharp memory you have there
well darrel, it comes and goes. every now and then i'll get vapor lock and walk into a room in my house, forgetting why i went there or what i was looking for. given the pickleing my brain has endured over the last four years, i should be grateful that occasional "senior moments" are all i have to endure.
but for some reason, i can still achieve instant, high-definition recall on every minor detail of every climbing outing i ever went on, going back to 1973. go figure.
hey eliot, how tall are you? i seem to remember being able to do a bounce move past that first jam and stabbing my left, thumbs down, into where the crack opens up. thought i might have used a small cheatstone as well but upon reflection there was no way -- piggot would not have tolerated it, especially when he was showing me one of his finds!
you wanna get this jam right hand, thumbs up, then stab up to where the crack opens up into a shallow but jammable slot, like 2 - 3 feet up.
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Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
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Apr 26, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
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Gonamok- Thank you for the kind words! I cannot wait to expand my trad leading repertoire.
Greg, Eliot, Doug- Heck yes on finding the elusive tips crack! I like the name too! let me know if you all need a couple of photographs, and i'll be there.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 26, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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That's exactly the beta we came up with. That next pod is pretty far (and freakin small) to stab to. It's funny, Eliot and I were wondering how tall you guys are. The most doable beta for me feels like I need to start with the jam and a dime sized gaston for the left, then lock the jam off to my hip and rock over a high step edge with my left, then go up to the second pod. It'll be a couple days, but can't wait to get back on it.
And I guess the thing about highballing is that although the crux is low, it's in your face the whole way. You get locks up high, but you only get an edge for your left foot every 2 or 3 locks (and the crack is so thin and leaning that you don't get much opportunity to jam your foot). So you just kinda have to smear your feet (on an overhanging wall), lock off, and stab for locks. Doable, but I don't plan on a boulder lap anytime soon
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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git 'er done, son. i'd love to go down there with you guys over memorial day...to, er, take photos.
rick and i are both in the 6' 2" range, and i have a +3 ape index...lets me reach through an awful lot of cruxes!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Apr 26, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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I'm 5'10" with a negative 1" ape. Doug's shorter than me though.
That's really cool we came up with the same beta. We were wondering how you guys were doing it. We tried nearly all combinations of starting moves and eventually decided that was the best (with the right hand thumb up). I have a feeling that even after sticking the left hand thumbs down the next move is still going to be just as hard...we should get back out there soon and report back.
BVB, it'd be great to hook up and head over to it with you. In the meantime we'll try to post more crappy photos.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
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Now we're talking, those are the pictures we want. And of course the running status on progress.
(I'm - paraphrased) in the 6' 2" range, and i have a +3 ape index...lets me reach through an awful lot of cruxes!
Nice. Not.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 27, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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I think I'm about 5'8" with a +1 or so. Would love to meet up with you BVB. Shout when you're down here.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 27, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Im 5-8 and my arms become shorter and weaker every day, to the point where I no longer register on the ape index. I am, however, a -5 on the penguin index.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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pretty sure this move and the next are the crux. crack opens up a bit after that. yes? no? it's been a long time...
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