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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 20, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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High on the second pitch of Day trippin. Four star moderate classic on Sphinx' south face.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 10:17pm PT
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Nice!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 21, 2016 - 09:08am PT
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I like the spirit y'all have, very fun looking things happening in Nevada.
I'd like to check some of it out when I get up there.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 21, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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Any time is the right time Blue. We need all the help we can get. Literally decades, if not centuries of quality new climbs to be done on the 30 mile ridge of the Selenites; some sections just for the hardiest of souls who don't mind death march approaches, other sections with easy 15 minute jaunts to the base, and still other lesser pinnacles and boulders you can literally drive to the base of.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 21, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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If you like the thread Vitaly maybe you should join us out there on the rock. The place is frequently climbable in winter when your Sierra walls are buried under ice and snow. Most of the remaining lines will take someone of your talent.
What town are you guys close to? I'd be happy to meet up and go climbing. Fear the drive is a long one from the bay area...No natural talent here that's for sure, but I do like to climb to the point that I don't think about it only when I sleep. :)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 21, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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A loosely associated group of friends strung out on the Sierra eastern front from Reno to Woodfords climb there Vitaliya. My place is NE of Reno about 20 miles, and exactly 78.1 miles and 78 minutes from the easy approach Sphinx/Obelisk parking. Come on up, should be a about a 5 hour drive for you. Drag old Ed H along for good measure. Will show you around to routes I'll never be able to do. With a few notable exceptions it's just cragging, no where near the size you've been racking up, but good rock in a great location.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
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Glad I was able to get out with you, Rick. However I worry if we let Vitaliy in on the goods there will be no more climbs left after a month. ;)
On another note, I heard from a good friend some folks were getting their feathers ruffled by all the "new" activity out in the Selenites. The details were vague but suffice to say, according to some unnamed historian, its all been well trodden out there. Regardless of an FA, repeat, or simple tick, its quite adventurous fun in a beautiful place.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 22, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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Laine, I wouldn't worry much about all the routes getting done and lines forming at the base by hordes of the standard type of possible incoming outside climbers. I've been inviting climbers out there for 3 years now and other than those that post here (about a half dozen) nobody else has managed enough stoke to actually climb out there. Additionally,in more than thirty trips to the range I have yet to encounter any other climbers other than those I already know and some boulderers at Limbo's base. Then again, Vitaliy isn't the standard climber as evidenced by his ravenous appetite for new routes in the Sierra back country. So Vitaliy, the historians, ghostly apparitions of climbers past, and the few active locals ( i guess myself included) now respectively request you not climb out this pristine range.
Don't worry though Vitaliy, I've found at least 3 other good mountain ranges I can bring you to.
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:17pm PT
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Sure seems that somebody is having too much fun. This is a great thread.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
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If I make it out there, it would be more for the hang, than climbing the place out. If I wanted to put up new routes with short approaches, I'd drive over to Mt. St. Helena area in the north bay. I'm sure there is plenty to work on there. But I like to keep the ratio of miles to pitches higher than any sane person would prefer. :) anyway, I'd be happy to do some sort of a weekend supertopoer meetup. The more people from the forum can come the better. I can do my best to bring Ed. I see him at the gym sometimes.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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I'm just kidding around about V. His vision for routes would be a great addition.I think it's great there is so much interest in this area. You are right, Rick. A few lifetimes worth of lines are out there. I dare say the facing climbing will likely rival the cracks in terms of steep pulling. I look forward to having more folks enjoying the goodness.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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You may be just kidding Laine, but I think we should keep Vitaliy blindfolded and wound up only for the very most killer approaches. This guy is a whirling dervish and if unimpeded could disturb millions of feet of delicate virgin cliff eco system as he lays waste to FA after endless FA.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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I haven't posted in this thread but I appreciate all the stoke. You guys are doin it the right way out there..
V - come on up to st. Helena anytime and the north bay crew will show you the classics and some new stuff.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 26, 2016 - 06:03pm PT
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Looking up at a to be done first pitch of a 450' buttress at undisclosed ER location. An easy 20 minute all downhill approach and an even easier 15 minute downhill and sidehill descent to the car parking. Like an adventure?
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climberevan
Mountain climber
Gardnerville, NV
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Feb 27, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
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Hi all, I've been lurking around & following this thread for a while. I'd love to get out to the Selenites & elsewhere at some point to check out the remote walls. I did a big dirtbike loop around NV last year & found all sorts of amazing rock, and it only whetted my appetite for obscure climbs. How does one go about hooking up with you guys? I live in Carson City.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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PM me or Rick, Laine too. We're all local. I'm in Carson too. They're just north of us. I'd be happy to meet and chat, and we can probably carpool the next run from here, that is... next time the wife lets me go. Right now my household's down with the flu and I'm mired knee-deep in prepping an albatross of a house for sale, so I'm unable to get out when I'd like. Other than that, it's all good.
As far as unnamed historians getting their feathers ruffled, maybe it's about time they step up and name what they proclaim to be already done. No evidence of it exists, or at least none's been found. There's so much rock out there I, for one, would be more than ecstatic to give a wide birth to any formation on which "it's all been done" in favor of sending new FA's on any one of the other hundreds of lumps of useless choss out there.
Step up. Claim your history or let it crumble like the dust of so many vast ranges of rock lain to waste in the annals of Earth's countless eons.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Feb 28, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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Working in central UT West Desert, might have to expand this thread to the other side of the state!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 28, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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Yeah, post up Oldfattradguy 2. Are you talking Utah or eastern Nevada? I've checked out the eastern state a bit and found lots of big limestone. Would be good to see some pictures.
As far as remote NW and central Nevada. Lot's of all kinds of rock. Little sign of previous activity.Ron and i saw some old rap tat on the Trejo slab. Saw some bolted limestone routes in the Humboldts. There is some toprope tat on a few lesser ER pinnacles that are easily accessible, Limbo has some sporadic history starting 40 or more years ago, same with the Granite Wilds, but the vast majority of medium sized crags that take some exploration to figure out access have no signs of previous activity. That's not to say somebody visited them and did a route or two, but certainly there was little to no development
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 28, 2016 - 09:55am PT
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OH LALA!! looks a bit wide , at least up through the middle but who can tell sitting to far away. Im all sorts of Jealous....
And the overhanging Face and cracks on the right Hand side, up high! WOWZA!
That I would call "The Gnomes Divorce" (TGD)
dreaming ....Dreaming BIG for me....
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