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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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you didn't do the whole route did you bump
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:42pm PT
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 11:06pm PT
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You mean some folks don't do the last pitch? The shame! The shame!
I didn't do the last pitch. It was shameful.
For me, Reed's Direct was a perfect Valley Classic. In other words, it was a classic example of getting N00b Schooled on Old School 5.9 after being sandbagged by Roper's green guide book's numbers.
Roper said it was only 5.9, so how hard could it be?
It was hard enough that I hung on a Hex near the top of the second pitch, to gather myself for the wider finale. In hindsight, I'd wasted my energy putting in too much gear below. A n00b and his rack are soon parted.
My partner went crazy: "I'm not a goddamn belay machine, so that you can hang on pieces!"
After I belayed him up, he was no longer berating me.
He declined to lead the third pitch, and I wasn't up for more verbal abuse, so we rapped off.
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