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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 24, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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Hey Clint,
I've unscrewed old 5-pieces in Owens (maybe 80-100 total?), Pinnacles (about 10-15), Tuolumne (about 10 or so), Josh (about 5?), Red Rocks (about 10), and maybe a few others here and there. Of those, I probably only extracted or drilled through the sleeve on about 10 of them - mostly I was switching Leeper hangers to modern hangers, replacing cold shuts, simply removing the bolt to turn a 3-bolt anchor to a 2-bolt, etc.
For cone spinners - I only saw a handful of those, and they always unscrewed by outward pull plus unscrewing (I often would just clip in with a draw, lean back, and unscrew the bolt).
I have had about 10 just plain snap off when unscrewing, always at the point where the threads start on the bolt core.
When the rust was super bad, I found that the sleeve would disintegrate into fragments, which sometimes jammed the cone so you couldn't funk it out. That's when I discovered that a 36V drill plus a 1/2" bit will just blast through the old bolt - much easier, especially since they were mostly crux bolts that should be 1/2" anyway. Not much use for hand drilling at Pinnacles though. A few times, I used custom sleeve extractors that Mike White made - they worked fine for a bit, then bent/wore out the little catch ears. Bernie & Shaggy used to pound a nail into the sleeve along the split in the sleeve, curling it in, and then using a long hook or needlenose pliers to pull the sleeve.
The worst rust was often on bolts at Owens where other bolts right nearby were in much better shape.
I thought someone (you?) suggested screwing in the correct size lag screw with a hanger, funking out the sleeve, then funking out the cone like normal (after tapping the cone in to disengage from the sleeve of course).
I'm sure some others here have experience and some more (or better) tips. It's a very good topic, since many of us will be replacing more and more rusted 3/8" 5-pieces in the coming years...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 05:46am PT
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Thanks for the beta, Greg - you've been there and back with the sleeves!
I've used a lag screw/bolt to extract the lead sleeves for Star-Dryvin bolts.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Sep 25, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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Thanks for the solid effort on the bolt replacement. I have climbed this route probably once a year for the last several. Some of the cleanest rock at the leap. Nice route. I looked at the run out bolts as I passed and deemed them old but in good shape! Interesting (read scary) to see how easy they actually came out. Seems pretty clear if one of those potential big falls were to be had, the bolts would have ripped.
I owe you a beer
Cheers
Aidan
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Stewart Johnson
climber
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Sep 27, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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do we ever try to contact the first ascent team before working on their routes? just wondering and thanks for the retro.
more routes thins the herd.
thanks again!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 27, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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That is sweet! Thanks for all your hard work. I love how you "realized that you were having a good time". Bump!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
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Stewart-
It depends on a few things:
If certain fixed pro i.e. pins need to be removed and replaced (in another location due to rock quality)-yes.
If you are going to change the nature of the climbing, like adding a bolt where a blown out pin placement is- yes.
Outside of that, on a standard rebolting job there is no need to notify the FA of an upgrade in hardware.
Of course there are situations where you might want to let them know, out of courtesy.
Mucci
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Sep 28, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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Good job on the re-bolting Mucci. That routes been in the cross hairs of a few people for re-bolting for the last couple weeks. It's great to see that someone actually beat them to it. It means the local climbing community is aware, able and willing to get out there and upgrade these old routes.
Next time you're thinking of upgrading a route, give me a shout. I can give you a hand, also I have access to a lot of stuff to help get the job done. I also have a sh#t tone of beta for routes at the Leap.
Again, right on for the replacement.
Routes that have gotten new shiny bolts at the leap this year.
Fear No Evil,
Psychedelic Direct,
Epitaph,
and... Hemorrhoids in Flight.
Round of Applause for that.
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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I just needed to have a 69th post.
Prod.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Dec 15, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
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Hey Nate, thanks for posting the links for the Rawl/Powers bolts! Those prices are way better that what we were paying for the non-stainless 3/8” x 1 7/8”. I didn’t bother to search for better prices and just went with the local supplier that George has previously used. I’ve still got a box of ‘em left, but will order from the Internet next time! Thanks!
Yeah, the stainless bolts ain’t cheap!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Leap + Bolt beta bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!