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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 10:20am PT
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The FA of the standard East Face route is credited to Floyd and Earl Millard in 1906.
Must have been a big adventure. But I can imagine that some Arapahoe Brave beat them to it generations earlier. Native peoples have been living here for (tens of) thousands of years. I can't imagine seeing the Flat Irons every day and not exploring them. Seeing eagles land atop these landmarks must have been powerful lure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 11:36am PT
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Then came the cowboys.
Nice portrait sent from Doug Robinson,
Taken during our post Flatiron ascent of Wind Tower:
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
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What you can't see in these shots is that while celebrating our ascent of Third Flatiron and psyching ourselves up for Wind Tower, we retired to Boulder for a beer and a margarita.
I could get used to this urban climbing....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Did the Wind Tower happen right after the celebration? Usually my celebrations
have the effect of un-psyching me for further climbing that day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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Yup.
Scrambled synapses imart a re-set, re-ordering effect.
Maybe the adrenals kick back in to keep stride?
Like ... day one, part two.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Party on belay Garth.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
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W/Eeyonkee?
I was never there...
I know nuth-thingk.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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Women may have been involved...
No matter: I'm taken.
Er, KEPT.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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KEEP on partying on belay, then.
As to the normally debilitating effects of cocktails, it is important to keep in mind a little-know backwater of psycho-pharmacology known as the paradoxical effect.
With weed, for example, it is known that 15% of the population behave paradoxically under the influence, actually becoming energized. Happy to say I am one of the lucky ones.
However, no weeds were burned to make those photos. Unfortunately.
Back to the drug in question that refreshed afternoon, one of my favorite (among many) quotes about altered climbing:
"Two beers and three Red Bulls, and for 20 minutes I can climb ANYTHING!"
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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"Two beers and three Red Bulls, and for 20 minutes I can climb ANYTHING!"
Forget the witness, Can I get a mantra?
Oh I forgot to add to my earlier post; Yippie Yi Yo FeatherBuster.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 30, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Sounds kinda like the Dreaded Beer Effect that makes a mockery of my pool shooting prowess past a certain pint!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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Ode to The Sweet15™™™
We happy few...one puff for me & two for you!
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Aug 30, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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What are those treaded shoes you are wearing on Wind Tower?
Good thread.
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Galibier Super Guides !!!
Oooops, wrong thread.
Those are La Sportiva Mega Dru......
A sophisticated board lasted boot, which feels slip lasted & lined like the Synchro: it has a deep heel pocket and is vaguely drop toe (not merely flat lasted; it helps load the toes forward without needing to fit tightly), complemented by a nice low profile toe box for thin cracks.
Re-fitted with a 1/3 sole, added up front, using 5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber: more firm than C4, similar to Onyx, & thick to better complement the edging oriented design afforded by the last & lugs.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Aug 30, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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You know, all the history stuff is cool and all, but.............
Check out that thigh meat! Yeah baby!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 30, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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Bump for the 'buster', whichever one he is!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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La Sportiva Mega Dudes Bump!
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skywalker
climber
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Oct 29, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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Tarbuster, thanks for the shots! Right side??? I remember free soloing (onsight) that side after running into crowds (standard route). I thought I was going to die... your cal age of photos reminded me of what went through my head on that trip but yours do not look like my family! Thanks
Cheers!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 29, 2009 - 09:42am PT
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Ament/McCarty's original blue guidebook listed as a recommended route not anything on the
E face proper, but instead the 1911 Gully. Does anyone climb that route nowadays?
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Oct 29, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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Excellent thread Tarbuster, great history, envy you folks that get to live nearby such great areas. As to Dougs shoes, BITD alot of hard routes have been done in Ninjas, one of my alltime favorites, had a green pair with a patch where my toes wore a hole in them, kept taking them to this shoe shop to be patched and the guy would examine them ever so closly but could never bring himself to ask what kinda shoes they were.
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