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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 25, 2009 - 02:31am PT
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Hey, easy on Indio. I was born there (no shit) - when there was like three cribs, a gas station, two burros, seventeen Mexicans, and me.
Crazy thing is, two of the Mexicans climbed Paisano.
JL
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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Hey Will; Man you can do this thing!!! You have better Pro! Hell, Largo Underclinged the shitzz. Holy hell! I think not. (For me.) But I bet he did. You know what to do. Do it!! Your way. Do it! Just pump the f*#king thing out.Then down climb Paisano Jam Crack.
All the best.
Dogtown.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2009 - 03:32am PT
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Hey, Gaines
Pipe up, I know your lurking. Give the boy a bit.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Once a upon a time Mr Scarpelli led Paisano. He has refered to it... Later I heard that he did it on his 40th birthday, the other night it was on the tip of my tongue to ask him about that while we were all granfalooning around the campfire. Somehow the conversation took a different turn and I never got to ask him... I was 33 when I led it.
Happy Lucille day,
go send, Will!
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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thanks matty....some serious inspiration there. Great video.
Well, it was great right up until they had the closeup of Guerin's rig in the short-shorts. Pardon me while I go dip my eyes in vinegar.
Oh yeah.....rock it out, Will!
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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Wow, that clip is seriously bad ass! (xtreme marble sack close-up aside)
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Hey Will.. next time..
you got this!
Thanks for the video. Gives me ideas on good camera angles
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 02:08am PT
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Gave her a go today. Near moment of terror with a stuck foot incident and visions of a well gaffed Fish in the same exact spot. Around the 3:30 mark, I'm trying to turn the lip and my f$^# foot is cemented in place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw3bmPfhy9w
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Nice!!!!!!
I also liked how, if you play the audio backwards, you hear Sgt. Pepper's.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 28, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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nice mang. solid effort.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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KICK ASS!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 28, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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Brilliant!!
Was there much chalk in the crack?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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"Was there much chalk in the crack?"
Ha ha, you funny K-man. No chalk, no tick marks. I can't imagine it gets tried too often, which is a shame because the position is ridiculous.
After we finished trying the overhang, lowered down to the base of the 10b flake pitch directly below, it's the last pitch of Ishi maybe? Anyway, really cool pitch and worth running a lap on while you're there.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 28, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Awesome that you're going for that climb. It's always been in the back of my mind as a "someday." When I saw your post, it inspired me to start training the wide a little more. Luckily I can get a little practice at Woodson, and R. Long's Crack is an inversion offwidth so I've been improving at that. What other inversion offwidths are there to try/train on in So Cal? I've heard Boulder 13 at Woodson is, but the trail was overgrown last time I checked. I'll work some of the other offwidths first before trying to find/make a trail over there.
Josh
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Thanks Mike, will likely take you up when I'm ready for round 3. Getting to be prime weather up there real soon. And would be nice to have some manpower in case the stuck foot thing happens.
Josh... "What other inversion offwidths are there to try/train on in So Cal?"
Gotta be a bunch at Woodson, but Boulder 13 for sure. Way overgrown last winter getting to it (the non-trespass way) horrible schwacking around but great problem, probably about mid 5.11/V3.
Josh:
Inquisition V6,
Maneater .10d
Fly Away .10d
Leavittation .12b
KD Live V6 (under the boulder at the base of Figures on a landscape), Comfortably Numb .11 can go with an invert, Emotional Rescue .12a has some kinda leavittation move at the end where it goes wide.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Russ, you got too much information on those places and the high-noon pole jockeys. Shudder
ECIYA, nice effort!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 28, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Nice Job Will!!!
Way to go!
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