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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
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There may be a tiny bit of tilt on Ed's last photo! It doesn't overhang like that. There are lots of good rests.
A "must do" for any Sierra climber, mega classic.
The 5.8 hand traverse down low is fun!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Third Pillar met and conquered - with the help of a Supertopo rope gun.
Route more difficult than I expected, but my partner, who I picked up sight unseen off of Supertopo, pulled off all the hard pitches.
10b "crux" (traverse after pin) has an easy work around in my opinion. Particularly if you are willing to step on the pin. ha
Last 10a layback bit on pitch 5 shut me down. I blame it on being height challenged (my common excuse), but I could see this bomber finger lock that was just 8 inches out of reach as I repeatedly barn doored off the delicate smearing layback. Granted it was the end of a long day and I had a pack on but shit; didn't feel like any 10a to me. After 4 failed stabs at it (each ending with a discouraging 5 foot rope stretching descent back to the ledge) I resorted to bat-manning up the rope. First time I've ever had to resort to that. But hey, whatever gets the job done. (see Walleye's first picture at the top of the thread for exact location; pro in right crack but we climbed the left crack. not sure if there is another option)
Beautiful weather, 8 people - conga line style - on route that day. Incredibly beautiful location - and sufficient time waiting at belays to take it all in.
Here's Bryce finishing up final pitch.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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Yo, Rocker! Congrats. Glad you had a good time--and you didn't die. Can't beat that.
bAd
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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karl:From the approach, where I thought I was going to die: Mt Dana:
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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DIdn't someone here post a pic a while back of a mt. lion that was at the base of Dana, looking up at them? Might have been somewhere else, but pretty sure it was at Dana.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Awesome rockermike!
That was the first time you ever had to batman up a rope. I envy you!
Great job.
Zander
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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A fellow supertopo member sent me this beta back channel. Now I re-read it I'd say its spot on - except the 5.8 bit I don't actually remember. What I do remember is the 5.6 chimney just after pitch 2's 10a is way hard with a pack on (oh, maybe that is the 5.8 he's talking about?). Thanks again Ben.
"The message is:
Saw your post on Third Pillar. Great route -- did it last year. It is very impressive and intimidating, but there is not really any good reason not to go do it if you have stable weather.
I have at least four different topos, no two of which agree. The Supertopo seemed closest, with the following exceptions: (i) the second pitch seems easier than 5.10 if you can reach around left as soon as possible to the hidden holds behind the rib; (ii) the belay on top of the big flake at the top of the third pitch is indeed spectacular, but the quality of the gear available for the anchor is underwhelming; (iii) the move by the pin on the fourth pitch seems way easier than 5.10b, more like 5.8 (looks like a block just above the pin recently fell out, leaving a jug hold); (iv) just above that move, the “5.6 hands” section before the next belay is apparently out of sight to the left (so I've been told, anyway), and the logical line up to the ledge is about 5.8; and (v) the tips layback on the last pitch is more like 5.10c, but it's really just one move (the topos don't even show this as the crux, but I thought it was miles harder than anything else on the climb technically). Excellent climb, tiring day. "
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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Yay, rockermike. Thanks for taking the route on and for the pics. You are an inspiration to me.
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adam d
climber
CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Nefarious...perhaps you were remembering this one (from the base of OZ)
Taken from the base of the sweet corner, Tail not visible in this zoomed in p&s pic but it's no bobcat!
Anyone do this traverse variation on the 3rd pillar? right of the regular route I believe, a few pitches up. Traverse left from the belay and around a corner to a wide-ish 9 crack?
rockermike: agreed the thin crack on the last pitch was the crux for me as well. Might have had something to do with linking the last 2 pitches though with 2 10.2 ropes!
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Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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another photo; above mentioned airy belay on flake with marginal gear for an anchor
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 18, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
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Hey, RockerMike's not dead bump..........WooHoo!!
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 18, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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man i am so going to solo that thing. I guided it 8 times one year. Never got tired of doing that rt. Never did it this year..yet.
May not die, just a lot of boulder problem cruxes with ankle breaking potiental.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 19, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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Oh, you're Still SO goin' to die, man.
Forgot to add that.
See Ya!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Nice topo. You must be a very strong climber. Color me impressed.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2011 - 08:31am PT
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Gotta be the most talked about 4 pitch route in the Country. I thought you had a lot of options regarding multi-pitch climbs in California? Must have been mistaken.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 11, 2011 - 10:55am PT
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Nice route, tons of fun and years since I did it. Repeat needed.
Regarding Merriam....5.10+???
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Jul 11, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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Did the 3rd Pillar this last Saturday under beautiful conditions. The approach had some snow, but easily doable in approach shoes. It was my first 5.10 lead and I loved every minute of it! Ill throw a trip report up later but here’s two photos.
This one is the overview of the pillar. Such great Rock!!!!!
Here’s the death flake on pitch 4! It’s either 10a fingers to the left or a 5.8 Flaring/Ow to the right. We went right and it was interesting!
Personally, pitch 4 was easier than pitch 5.
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