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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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Munge!
isn't the pic you posted Brandon. back when he was working for me?
Note the then new "Joshua Tree" shoes.
as for glue ups and chops, I think under the 210 freeway at Arroyo Seco in pasadena was the grandest. Brett did the first route, the one with the mantle. The last was "Girbles" done by Ron onthe southernmost pillar dubbed the Richard Gere Buttress.
All chopped by CalTrans after Troy proceeded to lead the LA Times there in self agrandizement mode.
So, Russ, did you chop it? Riddles in the Dark I mean, yes I know it got renamed for a while, I've never seen you balk at telling the truth, don't start now.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Ed: no... and I can't remember who did, but I remember the stink about it.....
If I had to guess, it would have been the heavy hitters of that time, or someone with their eye on the route?
I always take the high road on my chopping. If I do it/did it , you'll know about it.
Edit: yeah... Arroyo Seco... that was the best crag in Cali I was referring to upthread. Good stuff under there! Say, didn't Levy get the job of removing the holds or bolts or something for CalTrans?
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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sorry Medusa,
Hans F did not create the place.
Brett M put up the first route there out of too many rainy days that season frustration and being bored with the short hand cracks under the 210 at Huntington drive in arcadia/monrovia
eastbound off at Huntington, make 3 right turns. 11c/d cracks and 12-13 face.
Also Ron, resperatory therapist Ron, did both routes on the southernmost pillar and out the roof to the lip.
Thank Troy Mayr for the whole place getting removed. not that Randy Vogel did not give it his best shot to try to work with CalTrans.
Bev was a friend and is missed. I will ever regret not going to Jackson to ski with Mike and Bev.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Edit: yeah... Arroyo Seco... (same bridge, that was the exit Oak Grove)
Also Bret did the Sports Chalet, Comp. that David Lee Roth came to?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Ed, the one at Hart Park... Nah, not Brandon. Do we have a missing twin syndrome?
Palm Springs wall was a lot of fun when I stopped there one trip. Shady underneath, sandy landings.
Up here in the Gray Area, the Foothill Expressway took a dive a long while back. you could eeek out some moves and do some aid routes still 4 to 5 years ago, but mostly it was beat out for free climbing.
I eye balled the one up in Fremont a long time ago, and it looked blasted off.
Now the 237, that's something that might work on afresh, but I'll leave it to some smart young kid.
There's a nice retaining wall of decorative brick near Zanker and River Oaks and the creek bridge. Doesn't appear to be private property and it has nice edges. Nothing hard, but I can get a good pump out of it.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Glue ups were the best BITD. Like Craig, we spend countless hours literally "putting up" lead routes. My faves were under the 22 near Hart Park and the Jamboree roof routes (though we would tour all the different spots in LA and OC)-- boy could you get strong.
Keep the photos coming (unfortunately, I don't think I have any).
Before Glue (ah yes, PC-7) started appearing on concrete public structures, we established a small glued on traverse on the side of Rock & Ice (a small store in Fullerton). Dan Leichtfuss (a super generous guy) made Maria and I a great Crack Machine which we installed behind the store as well. This was well before any gyms or plastic holds.
And before glue, many locals (like Dave Evans and Matt Cox) sought out all sorts of buildering problems -- slumpstone block walls provided great raw material.
Back to Ed's original inquiry, I too would like to know who chopped Riddles (I was once accused of chopping it). Also, anyone know who removed the bolts on Stand and Deliver? Another quality route that should be replaced.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Does the 22 even exist anymore?
Fwiw, I think I actually saw you guys working on the 22 once.
I'll see about rummaging thru the old prints for some more arty walls.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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Medusa,
you must be having a cold water on the left day....
it wasn't hans,,,
and Mike and Bev had a home in Eagle Rock, not Pasadena.
Hoover, explained his logic...
great house in a marginal neighborhood or marginal house in a great neighborhood, they opted for the former...
then Mike in his wisdom of course went out on the roof the day after they moved in, and sent two high powered rifle rounds into the back yard grass, Hoover said he wanted to make sure that word got around the neighborhood that "that guy is crazy"
they never had a problem. even in Eagle Rock.
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Ah yes, the 210 pillars. Think there were only 2 routes when I was there. To answer Gobee's question, yes, Brett did the Sport Chalet comp tower too (I helped for a day IIRC).
Monrovia cracks were always exciting (I lived 2 blks away at the time).
Eaton Canyon/New York Drive bridge was pretty popular glue up traverse with the original traverse being left 20' in the sky after flooding washed away the dirt at the base. Had some decent aid climbing and lead routes too.
Then there's the more recent (8 yrs ago) glue up under the 210 in Sunland. 200' of finger-friendly endurance training. It's been covered with graffiti since this old pic. Official name is "The Sanitarium."
Unfortunately, someone less skilled also tried a Bondo wall directly across from this one. That monstrosity needs to be knocked down.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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How about the UCI wall? still there?
there was a big ole crystal as one hold. Very cool. Some petrified wood, etc. too.
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