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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
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Tradchick, Paul -- Total Recall (5.11b) calls for real edging skillz, too real for me.
Loose Lips has better holds, certain days.
Snakefoot on Loose Lips (5.10a):
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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GOclimb leads p2 and p4 (both 5.10a) of Lost Souls:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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JimE and Jerry Dodrill on The Last Unicorn (5.10b):
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Jul 24, 2009 - 07:50am PT
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Paul: Tomcat and I are looking forward to your visit! Can't wait to climb with you again and meet Kay too.
Chiloe: As always, great pics of stellar climbs! That finger crack on Loose Lips is perfect and it lets up just when I start to wonder if I'm gonna make it to the belay.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 24, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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This shot:
Made me think of Ed (Yogi Ananda RumBlahs) Sklar.
He used to go over to echo lake in the afternoons and plant himself in a beach chair, chest deep in the water with a cooler full of beer tied to the chair with a less than arm reach length tether.
He used to say it was part of pursuing his career as he had a degree in 'Recreation'.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Does anybody still play around on the short yet taxing, friction problems of the 'Ninth wave' area?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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TB, good story. Echo Lake had a more cosmic ambience before they built that damn hotel,
golf course and McMansion development between the lake and the cliff.
Does anybody still play around on the short yet taxing, friction problems of the 'Ninth
wave' area?
Back when I was brave, I led The Ninth Wave and Wave Bye Bye a few times. I suspect
they get toproped more often now, but don't recall seeing anyone up there lately.
For that matter, haven't seen folks on Interloper in a while either, which I used to think was
one of the better slab routes.
I wonder if JimE's route with the frightening name, Body Surfing, has been repeated more
than once.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jul 24, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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GOclimb leads p2 and p4 (both 5.10a) of Lost Souls
Your excellent TR made me think quite fondly of that day. Many of the same elements were present that day:
A mostly unprotected and slick first pitch. An intimidating overlapping section (but at a much easier grade in the case of Lost Souls) and a final bit that dissolved into slab and moss.
If I recall correctly, there was even a nice overhanging hand crack somewhere. What a bonus!
That was a fine day.
GO
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 24, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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vunderbar!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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I wonder if JimE's route with the frightening name, Body Surfing, has been repeated more
than once.
"He said it was like water-skiing on granite. Lucky for him, he knew how to water-ski."
 - Mike Warburton recounting another climber's long fall on GPA.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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it was part of pursuing his career as he had a degree in 'Recreation'.
There is, or at least was, a Journal of Leisure Research.
From the example I recall, the folk who published in it were either clueless or excellent at parody.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 08:07am PT
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There is, or at least was, a Journal of Leisure Research.
There was a journal named Review of Sport and Leisure, as well.
I'd know because I published in it once, on "The Changing Face of American Mountaineering."
My paper was a sequel to a better piece I'd placed somewhere else, but hey, there it was.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 25, 2009 - 09:37am PT
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Echo Lake had a more cosmic ambience before they built that damn hotel
That makes me chuckle, primarily because when climbing as a family we've taken the "when in Rome" approach to the White Mnt hotel and Echo lake. Our girls love climbing, but they'll promise to clean their rooms for a week if we throw in the icing on the cake. Probably helps that, having moved to NH in 1996, I never knew the undeveloped ambience. Regardless, family climbing outings in the whites have begun and ended more than a couple times with vodka tonics by the pool with this view:
And, strangely enough, the sound of kids playing at Echo lake has a calming effect on me while leading these days, although prior to my girls being born it used to freak me out to be sketching with some kid in the distant background crying for his mommy.
BUT, the coolest part of this thread = Chiloe sharing ropes in the whites with so many great folks over the years. In my Webster guide, several routes (e.g., like GOclimb, Lost Souls) have scribbled next to the description: "w/Larry." What a privilege. Who else have you tied in with on Whitehorse, Chiloe?
And, so many more great routes we haven't seen pictures of yet...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
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A few older shots from the files, of STers having fun on Whitehorse.
This would be young Crøtch, climbing Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Tranquility (5.10b)
on a cool tranquil day.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Tarbuster again, cruising Short Order (5.9-).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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A younger Jim E prepares to drill his first bolt, while making the first ascent of Swinging Hips
(5.10d R). The three pieces clipped already are part of the classic route Loose Lips (5.10a).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
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Not an STer but everybody knows Henry Barber, here leading Hallowed Eve (5.10a R) barefoot.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 05:52pm PT
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Lucander last fall on Atlantis (5.10b).
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Sep 24, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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I know Pate is frothing after climbing there yesterday and is grateful for your beta Chiloe. I'm sure he'll post up soon.
Awesome thread.
I love granite.
Can't wait to go....next year.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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I know Pate is frothing after climbing there yesterday and is grateful for your beta
Pennsylenvy, a past victim of my excellent Whitehorse beta, steadies his nerves on Tidal Wave
(5.10b R, with direct finish). There's no pro for miles!
I'm sure he'll post up soon.
Good. Another beta victim!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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Lookin' forward to your story, funky old bolts and all.
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