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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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The best place to look is here:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/07/incredible-hulk-101-tips-tricks-and-beta/
Here is a Solar Flare topo
I'm going to try Solar Flare in two weeks so I can give out some updated info then.
The gist of it is a few crack pitches followed by 4 mostly bolted pitches.
The Bolted pitches are in the 5.12a-12d range. You can rap the route with a 70m rope but the raps are very close (tie knots). The stations are a bunch of tat but I plan on cleaning that up in two weeks.
At the end you want to swing over the the P2 anchor of Blowhard and rap into the gulley. You may have to do a little down climbing to get to the P2 anchor and a little more 4th class off the back if you only have a 70m rope.
 Luke
EDIT: (Vlad did you delete your post?)
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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Thanks for all the info, Luke. Yeah, I watched the video again and realized the topo is sort of in there already. That's plenty of info to do the route. Thanks for the rap recommendations. I think we'd use a tag like and would be able to do 60 m raps. Nobody wants to climb with a pack (-: The route looks fun! Have a good time in two weeks!
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jul 21, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Damn Luke! That's amazing. Seven parties on Positive Vibes? Someone climbing Eye of the Storm?
What is the story back there this year? Permits are required?
Jake, Nalazak looks sicko. I looked at that line when up there before. Looks plenty action-packed. There are still more lines up there. Mostly variations, but they look damn good.
Has there been any new pitches going down this or last year? Seems like the activity - new activity - has diminished of late.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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The seven parties were at the Hulk on the last weekend before the permit quota started.
~ June 28th until mid September they only issue 8 entry permits per day. 4 of those are available for reservation. Before this you can self register at the Bridgeport ranger station.
I don't think any new routes are going up. I agree there are more pitches to do. I've seen some parties in odd places on the spires across the canyon. Seems like there is potential there for new routes. Haven't heard any reports though.
The first two parties, that I know of when up Lost in the Sun this past weekend. Psyched for that!
More people are starting to get on the harder routes. Venturi is super popular in this department.
I bet a few shorter routes could be done on the left side of the hulk, but it is more work than people are willing to do.
Someone asked me if there was a good info on all the base routes.
Here you go:
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 30, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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Did anyone repeat The Bard Harrington Suicide route? Where the hell does that go up. Saw the description in Secor but did not make much sense, since astrohulk is right of it, but only tradewinds and venturi close by to the left. Didn't see much space for another route...but I didn't look to carefully. Seems like an independent line though.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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richard leversee and I repeated the Bard-Harrington in 1988. It was during that ascent that I got the first idea of what became the Astro Hulk line. their original line (we had an old topo Bob had given richard) started on the right side of the triangular recess, went up the chimney pitch then moved right over near by where astro-hulk and tradewinds now goes then pendulumed left into the left facing corner on the opposite side of the pillar where the enduro pitch of Astro hulk goes. Leversee and I went up there to free it, which we did all except for the 30 foot pendulum section. I recall the crack above the swing being very gritty and not that fun to free...we were getting pretty carved up as night was coming on...before the swing I looked up the right facing corner at that time and thought...hmmm? and eventually went back in 1996 with Mike Davis to climb it. Astro-hulk is an all free compilation of pitches from the Bard-Harrington Suicide route, The Donaldson Aid route and we added some new climbing including the Enduro pitch which caps off the route. On my original topo I called Astro-Hulk a free "link-up" rather than a "new" route as it was mostly just freeing and combining existing pitches with a couple of new pitches.
There is an image on this thread from 2013 that outlines many of the base pitches (titled "cragging" at the Hulk" hmmm...?) of various routes which is fairly accurate as far as location and grade but not as accurate historically as far as route names associated with those pitches. no big deal, but as an example, everyone pretty much assumes that Positive Vibrations starts over on the left side of the triangular recess and that IS the most popular, fun and accepted start, but what is usually called the first 4 pitches of PV is actually the first 4 of Astro-Hulk...they intersect at the big "bivy" ledge midway up the wall. Bob Harrington helped clarify some of this earlier in this thread as well. Maybe someday when the dust settles out there a comprehensive collection of route topos and some historical background and fun first ascent stories would be cool to compile..?
BTW, a couple of days ago Peter Croft, Andy Puhvel and I completed a mostly independent line of 8 new well protected pitches on the Hulk that goes directly up the steep terrain in between Airstream and Astro-Hulk/Positive Vibrations. Lots of good, varied and sustained climbing with mostly comfy belays and tops on the last pitch of PV about 30 feet from the Venturi raps. it's pretty clean as it stands now, but having a few more sets of fingers on it would help...a name is still being kicked around and the grade stands at four pitches of 5.11 and four of 5.12.
cheers!
Dave Nettle
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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New Hulk route! Thanks!!!!
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Nice job on the new route guys! Glad someone finally climbed those amazing features. We thought of taking Nalazak up through that region but by the time we finally sent that one pitch we were pretty worn out on the proj. Can't wait to see the topo and get up there someday!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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When you come up with a name please share the detailed topo on yellow paper we all know you've got!
Thanks for sharing, this thread is awesome.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 11, 2015 - 09:57am PT
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Hulk smash!! Anyone been up lately? Heading over soon, and I'm getting way to psyched.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!