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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Let's hear it for effort, honesty, and humble pie!
DR hook up with someone and write a guidebook for the place...
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Thanks for the offer, alas that day is a family camping trip. DO IT!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Rematch this weekend. Stay tuned...
Anybody wanna go? We already have 2 parties of 2 going. Woot!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
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Success!
I got the first pitch this time, Ez got the second.
U.N. Peacekeepers.
Sunset after we did another route.
Camp
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 25, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Way to rock it! Give us details on the route.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 25, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
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Awesome! Nothing like going back to finish what you started.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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Micro, pitch one and two are straight forward. Towards the top of pitch 2 you come to ledge, just shy of the top of the pillar. Don't stop at the ledge keep going till yoo get on top of the pillar.
From the top of the pillar you navigate the notch to get onto the face. Wheb looking at the face from the pillar, go around left (We tried going right last time!), put in a piece and crawl down with good hands to lower yourself down. Traverse the notch and start lead pitch 3.
Go up and belay just shy of the headwall. Note that I ran into double bolst when I headed off to lead this fourth pitch. They are to the right of the chicken-head belay. This is probably a better belay.
Go over the headwall on the right side on good chicken heads. Proceed up easy climbing to a bolted belay.
The get off here we traversed over and did a belly-lower next to an old rusty Leeper. Once lowered, walk across and up to the top.
Easy!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 25, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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When I saw your rope running up the right side on that third pitch, I just had to smile. (Even though that's usually the fifth pitch for me.)
Way to go!
Now you may want to try Mule Train with my buddy Lawrence Garcia's rightward finish, 5.9.
Cheers.
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
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Right on Blue, we got it done. Seemed much less intimidating to me after a couple years of climbing experience. It's definitely worth hauling a 12-pack up this route.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Right on Blue, we got it done. Seemed much less intimidating to me after a couple years of climbing experience. It's definitely worth hauling a 12-pack up this route.
Kinda ironic that you were the motivation for getting back on this. I dragged you out there originally and you had much less experience. Now you're climbing more than I do and pushed me to go back and "get er done".
Thank you, buddy! It was a fun trip. Those other routes were cool too despite me being pissed off for getting volunteered to do that other lead. In the end it was fun and everybody had a blast.
Kev had a big role in motivating me too, to jump on leads.
Mission accomplished.
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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"This aint 5.7!" ....giggle....
It sure isn't at the end of the day when we've each drank a 12-pack. Haha, good times.
Hell yeah Stevie, excellent weekend. I can't wait to see some of Mishka's photos.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
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This is the way to go on the notch. Go left-side...
The start of pitch 1.
One of the many junkshow belays with 4 people and 3 ropes...Kev was a bit pissed off about mine and Ezra's rope management skillz! "What are you guys doing up here, this is a shitshow!!!!"
Hahahahaha!!!!
Last man on the summit coming across.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Seal Beach, Ca
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Jul 23, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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Any driving/approach beta? Also is there a walk off or is rapping required?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Buy this map; http://www.natgeomaps.com/shaver-lake-sierra-national-forest
Trust me, you'll thank yourself on future trips. This map is the Forest-Road map of the area. They also sell these at The Forks Marina at Bass Lake. The gives you access to Shuteye and Chiquito areas too. In addition to Coutright, Shaver, Hungtington, Wishon, etc..
Take Beasore Road from Bass Lake to the first left after the Cold Springs/Chilkoot Lake turnoffs. Go past and then turn left. That should get you to 'Fresno Dome' from Beasore Road.
If you take Minarets Road, you have to turn left after Soda Springs I think. Better to go to the North side of Bass and catch Beasore Rd there.
Others probably have better approaches.
Memorize the sight of my 2nd pic fro the original post. Memorize that base. Light colored rock leading to grey, with the bushes to the right.
Finding the start is key. Alo that pic gives you perpective on what looking up the first pitch looks like, along with the first bolt protecting the easy 5.9 start. You can come in sideways from the right if you puss out on the 5.9 direct start. No biggie, it just needs a good spot until the first clip. Bad landing!
I would really recommend looking at this whole thread. The 2nd pitch is easy. 3rd pitch can be linked and prolly simul-climbed some. This gets you into the 'Notch'. Good place for a break.
Once you reach the notch from climbing up, you will want to turn right and face the last couple of pitches. When looking from the nothch you want to veer left around the notch and go down! About 10 feet. And then proceed acroos to the far side of the notch. Set a belay there and bring everybody else across.
From there you go up, veering slightly right. Stop at the headwall. Proceed on after that to the summit.
At the summit, continue walking towards the real summit. Lower down at 15 feet. Walk over to the real summit. Walk back to camp. This last part can be done un-roped, but is spicy. See my last pic in this thred.
2 ropes are required to bail after pitch#2, safely. Rope drag is gnarly unless you bail off pitch 2 with 2 ropes, going to climber's right. Rap into the steep gully.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
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When ya going, brother?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 23, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
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Most folks will take 41 North, through Oakhurst, then turn onto Skyranch road just past town. That winds up toward Fresno Dome Campground eventually. Not a bad drive compared to many Shuteye "proper" areas.
Have a blast!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2016 - 08:27pm PT
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Anybody going up next weekend?
Edit:
Most folks will take 41 North, through Oakhurst, then turn onto Skyranch road just past town. That winds up toward Fresno Dome Campground eventually. Not a bad drive compared to many Shuteye "proper" areas.
What Scott said...go that way.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Seal Beach, Ca
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Jul 25, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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I'm just planning to go up and solo the south face routes. Join me anyone? I'll be there Wednesday morning at 6pm or so. Unless I get lost.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 26, 2016 - 09:21pm PT
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Hi all, lots of free time here at Fresno dome/shuteye to climb if anyone needs some one to climb with! got some new fun routes on hawk dome as well 😊 happy climbing Mike A.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Seal Beach, Ca
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Jul 26, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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Mike A. and/or Bluering, is there a walk off?
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