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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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The History of Rock Climbing by Pat Ament, by Pat Ament.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Atcha, I think that is by Ament, right?
I have always loved this historic photo though. The group should be reminded that Bev Johnson ended bagging both Bridwell and Barry, consecutively and it kind of looks like that is what is going on here. Great Shot by PA.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Hey pat, heres a thought, since everyone (Kauk, Bacahar, Kor, the Colonel, etc) is doing it, why not take your slides on the road? You could show us slides of the Slack, Supremecy, the Black, athlete's feet, all kinds of stuff, and talk about it all you want. You got the goods. We'd come to see and hear.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool photo. Maybe in the next edition, an explanation will be added about how the first pitch was originally rated 5.11 and appeared that way in the Roper guidebook, but was later downrated because Bev Johnson climbed it free. (Strange criteria but good story).
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WBraun
climber
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Most likely the first pitch was rated 5.11 because it was done in those blue Royal Robins wall boots. Most were still free climbing in those boots at that time. Those boots sucked for free climbing by today's standard.
Bates was one of the first guys to switch to EB's and in the process tearing it up on the free climbing and bouldering arena.
When I first saw EB's in the mountain shop in 69 the the guy there told me they'll never work here in the Valley because they are too soft.
WTF did I listen to that guy for???????
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Good point about the shoes, Werner - I didn't think about that.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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The first time I did that route the first pitch was called 10b, and was Wheels', we had EB's , I am not a face climber, I could only shudder about what was to come. Somehow the math worked out that I got the last pitch; challenging, but pure joy, made for a vedauwoo crack climber. Definitely one of the cooler climbs out there!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I have no idea what was going on when that picture was taken. It is sort of fun to think that it related to a rivalry between Jim and Barry for Bev's attentions, but I am not sure that that really happened. Bev was so independent that I cannot image what anyone thought that they could get out of folding one's arms or looking away. We all pretty much knew to lick our wounds in private.
Great lady, even from this long distance.
When was the picture taken away? Barry? Pat? I get the feeling that it was taken in 1972 or 73--that's when I remember Pat being in the Valley, but I am not sure. And who is over Jim's shoulder?
Regarding Jim rating ND 5.11 A1, the most important point, from a historical perspective, is that Jim thought it was 5.11. My guess is that if he had rated it 5.10 A1, it would have been several more years before anything would have been rated 5.11. By recollection only, it seems to me that most of the early 70s 5.11s in the Valley were originally rated 5.10 (Some one with a good memory and a latter guide can sort that out.) My guess is that Barry and Steve would not have rated ND all free at 5.11 if there were not a precedent to compare it to. (This is also the line of reasoning that Jim took in working out the a, b, c, d sub-ratings.) No one wanted to be first with a new big number.
By the way, this line of thinking started when I looked at the first 5.12s in the Valley and realized that there were several that are now considered 5.12 that were originally rated 5.11. In the case of "Hot Line," Meyers rated it 5.11 even after Ron and John rated it 5.12. It got me thinking that crossing those big number thresholds is less a matter of the actual final agreed rating than what climbers thought at the time. Sort of like saying that if we all thought that ND was 5.11 when Jim and Mark climbed it, it was, at least for as long as it had to be.
Peter, did you know that ND wasn't 5.11 A1 when Jim and Mark did it? Not trying to put you on the spot, but you were there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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ND was my first 5.11. When I first approached the crux I felt really strong and confident until the fixed piton nearly came out when I touched it, panic took over shortly followed by a fall. Composure regained, I went back up, tapped the pin in, and then noticed the thank god foothold to my left.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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My photo of Jim, Bev, and Barry was in the late
1960's, I'm sure, maybe '69? Though I'd have to get out the slide to check a more exact date. You see Jim Pedigrew
in the immediate background. But Bev was never quite clear
who she loved more, I think, Jim or Barry. The mood I've
always felt in this photo is that the lean had gone to
Jim, who is looking a bit exalted, and Barry a bit down and
out. I bouldered a lot and climbed with all three of them
during this time... I don't think the story is right that
ND was downrated because of Bev. Everyone paid her the hightest
respects, whenever I was aware. I think people simply do the
best they can with ratings, then later feedback and experience
allows them to fine tune. Clearly the first pitch of ND was
never 5.10, and clearly the last pitch -- though technically
it doesn't have one single killer move -- is certainly sustained
and awkward enough to be 5.11... when it was done free by
Barry and Steve. Thank you Peter for your kind words on the photo. I always had my camera around and am so grateful, because I have a goldmine of photos from those different years.
Roger, I was in the Valley every year, almost every climbing season, sometimes four times a year, from 1964 up through about 1972, then it slowed down, to fewer visit, but good ones always...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Pat,
I think you meant to say:
Clearly the first pitch of ND was never 5.11, ...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 25, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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New Dimensional Bump!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Aug 25, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Regarding the references to chipping by Bridwell, I'd like to point out that this can be a greyer area than first appears. He offered the example of a rotten scabrous flake attached tenuously at the bottom. It can be removed cleverly leaving a usable hold or unthinkingly leaving nothing.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 10, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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So I just did this route for the first time a few days ago...and I don't get all the hype. In fact, I thought it kinda sucked.
Sure, it's a clean, continuous crack system. But the climbing is inelegant, awkward and not really a lot of fun. Lots of reaching deep into flares for jams, and short moves because your arm is so extended. I think literally every route I've done at Arch is miles better than this pile.
Five stars? Call me a heretic, but I'd say two at most.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Oct 10, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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I guess I would say for three decades after its FA New Ds was THE classic. Sure there are "better" routes today but when you consider the history and the number of boys turned men (and men turned crybabies) by this route it remains a CLASSIC.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 10, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Great comment from Largo earlier in the thread:
I don't really know, but it's all interesting to consider so long as things don't get too serious. I like that.
Thoughts on the early thread: New Dimensions and Slack aren't, or never were in the same league.
I never climbed it when the "block" was there, but by my era Slack was something to do on the way by. New Dimensions was, and remains, the real destination.
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Double D
climber
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Oct 10, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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When I was a wee pup and 1st cutting my teeth on 5.10’s, I ventured out to lead the first pitch of New D. Just as I started up, Bridwell comes out of the bushes most likely on a candy induced walk. The Bird was the man back then and it totally warped my psyche to have him watching one of my first attempts at a 5.10. Just under the belay where I switched cracks I swung into a lieback and stepped on my line causing me to log some serious air time. I sheepishly finished the pitch feeling totally dejected by blowing something so simple in front of this hero of mine.
Adding insult to injury, Jim asked if he could take a tow and proceeded to waltz up in his converse high-tops making it look like a 5.4. When he reached the belay he said, “you’ll do ok if you just remember to not step on the rope.” Somehow his casual and humorous criticism eased my anxiety and led to a lifelong friendship.
New D has always the benchmark for Yosemite 5.11’s in my mind. When Ron and John finished Gate of Power, Bill Price and I were getting beta on it and Ron, with a straight face, stated, “yeah, Gate’s probably 5.11… you know if New D is 5.11.” … Minor Sandbag?
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 10, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Cool thread. I luved ND, did it several times and wish we would have done it many more. Regarding the 1st pitch and Doc Bridwell's scalpel work, lol ... I have done it with the chipped hold and without it (avoided it) & it didn't seem anymore difficult either way!
edit: btw, i have never mentioned this to no one, and it's gonna seem like blasphemy, but; i was riding along on the eastside one day with GM and out of the blue he pop's this one on me, "JB didn't really solo ND, he just said that to piss off the Bird!" I was somewhat perplexed at what I heard, but had come to respect George for his candidness and honesty, so I didn't press him on it and nothing more was said.
Bridwell was down in Patagonia the winter (summertime there) of '74-'75, and that word had evidently gotten down to him some how (prollie Mountain mag. note). Or maybe it was the year GM went to Patagonia ('75-'76/'76-'77??, i forget).
Regardless, even if he didn't do it that early he did solo it soon after (duh, no shit)!
I do recall an early posting/bulletin in Mountain on JB's free solo of ND, which I think was in the Spring of '75 and therefore coincided with Bird's Patagonia trip. But, maybe GM was just F'n with my head that day, although i sincerely doubt it!!
weeg - nun'a us ever fell off new d, cuz we wuz all badazz, bitd (or at least walked, talked & dressed like one, lol)! & badazz's don't know how ta fall off sh#t ... end up fall'n into a lotta sh#t tho! (c above)...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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hey implicitd!
amongst all this chest-beating,
do you care to share a tale
of when you....
fell off new dimensions?
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