The Idiots Guide To Descending Lone Pine Peak

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John Moosie

climber

Beautiful California

Mar 26, 2009 - 04:26pm PT

Yowzer. Nice tale. Great writing.

Thanks !!!

kev

climber

Mar 26, 2009 - 04:32pm PT

Yeah I've got a Banner Story. Cr0tch - was it you and your wife that Ian and I met up there last summer. We help you through the free crux and you help us (US = 2 ICE/SNOW noobs) on the descent.

We had crappy baby insteps.

kev

dankras

Trad climber

Mar 26, 2009 - 06:50pm PT

With all this wonderful "discussion" going on, I just had to chime in...
Nate: to answer your question, we did go straight up, deciding against the death gully; there was some unimpressive climbing (2 pitches or so) which lead you to an obvious finger crack - the crack begins at an overhang and becomes harder, my guess on a good day, dry it's 11+, 12, so we decided against that being in plastics and with a pack. I headed right, past the crack and climbed what was mostly an easy pitch, with a short section of 5.7 but with good gear; then it became easier - drc took some other variation, as I placed only 3-4 pieces for the entire rope length - I am not sure if his variation was easier or harder, but he did bark something about "screwing the second." I don't think it is the route described on the summitpost page, but am sure there are many ways to make it onto the plateau from the notch.

drc

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 06:51pm PT

Ah Kras, velcome to the taco stand brah;)

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Mar 26, 2009 - 08:35pm PT

hey there, say... i always love it when you all draw the routes on the photos...

say, thanks for the share...

Fritz

Trad climber

Hagerman, ID

Mar 26, 2009 - 10:13pm PT

Great Epic Story! As a old fart climber who had his adventures in the 1970's and 80's------I am impressed that you were able to share this epic so soon.

It used to take me 5-10 years, and a lot of alcohol, before I could confess to the route gone wrong and the horrible, stupid (only in retrospect) retreat.

Wonderful reading, and yes I would love to see more of this on ST.
thanks, Fritz

crøtch

climber

Mar 27, 2009 - 04:20pm PT

Yup, that was us on Banner last summer, a climb that just kept going and going and going. Did you guys take any pics? I think I left my camera in the bag most of the day.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland: what's not to love?

Mar 30, 2009 - 02:16pm PT

10/10!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jun 16, 2009 - 09:05am PT

Nice!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jun 26, 2009 - 12:56am PT

bump for one of the most humble and hilarious TR's I have ever read twice!

DRC/Dirka/Iron curtain cowboy, you are the man.

Daphne

Trad climber

Mill Valley, CA

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:06am PT

I recently recommended this report to someone and then read it again, too. Still one of the best in years, in my recall.

Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber

Berkeley, CA

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:07am PT

Did this route make it in the new Secor "Peaks, Passes and Trails: 3rd Edition," or do we have to wait for the 4th?

Wayno

Big Wall climber

Seattle, WA

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:19am PT

Nice writing and some good chuckles. You gotta love a good epic. Worth reading again-bump.

climber

Just takin' the long way home...

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:53am PT

OMG...

I am laughing so hard, the tears are running. In another lifetime I might've suggested being kinder to yourself because, after all, we all make mistakes...even multiple dumb-arse mistakes...one right after another (mine is called Sleeping With Farting Strangers: The Day I Didn't Summit Whitney). But the whipping-boy tone of this piece, drc, has me rolling on the floor. Brilliant storytelling, simply brilliant.

Thanks for an excellent TR of a happy-you-lived-to-talk-about-it epic. The photo of the "fine dining experience" will live in my memory forever...