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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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Yeah alright. I can see that. Makes sense. Maybe I need me one of them fancy WF Pushers™ I've been hearing about, and I suppose I need to swami up my game, too.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 19, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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here is the idea:
Note the slim waist profile with this set up. Even stuff like legloop buckles are a major pisser for me. I'm not tiny and getting into cracks is already a PITA at the best of times. Swami and maybe a legloop set up with no buckles. No belay loop.... I long knot it too.... where you tie a figure 8 about 18" from your actual waist as the tie in. Damn pesky knots! Keep 'em well away from the action.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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sweet drawing russ!!!!!
never tried the swammi.....may have to giver a go soon!!!
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Crushed velvet pants, or is that just stubble?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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"Crushed velvet pants, or is that just stubble? "
hahahaha Well, it *is* Russ, after all... So, probably both.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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Crushed, just for you Scuff ;)
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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To get an idea of just how TOAST the poor guy is...
Is that right side in, or left?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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in my mind it was left side in.... but damn... for an art major.... I never really "had it"
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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Well, if it's left side in, which it looks like, he's not
toast, he's a drama queen.
If it's right side in, he really is toast. At least.
I could never draw anything half that good.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
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Chill'en. The Scuff.
Look what you have been up to since last We peeked in!
Let me say this, as one of the original dragons of this stuff. These points have appeared before here.
advice from El Canoso:
If you are in fact trying to climb an offwidth beyond 5.10b or so, you better shed that effing harness---it's really lame, use a bunch of tubing instead, on your waist only---don't worry pilgrim, you will survive; we sure as hell did. The tie-in knot has to be on your side rather than above your crotch/below your navel/ centered on your wide spot; you will have to decide which side. I usually went for the outside but that is not always the way. And you simply can't have tons of garbage on board. There it is. Evaluate whether you even should have a trailing line. NEVER enter a hard wide crack with all things great and small. (separately, grin)
I have said this before. Leave the crap behind; have a valid and cogent plan; climb the thing with your entire heart in stiff shoes, stay as slim as you possibly can. Don't even wear a belt on the special ones. NO BULK. Stay relaxed, don't flex up and make like a wine barrel. Be happy with tiny one-inch moves. Make sure your feet are excellent---you always have excellent feet if you think about them and don't get all "upper body oriented" and fly right out of there. Quit thinking you need pro every effing 10 feet; you will live. Love that thing.
hugs p.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Feb 19, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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Wow you all are giving such good tips I almost want to get on some OW. To show my current state of ignorance, I am one of the poor fools who clipped the rope into a cam placed overhead and would just give it shove up or replace as needed. To my slight credit, it was always clear that falling at the wrong time would have been more than slightly "interesting."
Keep the tips coming--I like the mental ones such as PH posted, although I'm not sure they will help as much on the rock as they do when I visualize myself moving up nice and smoothly from the comfort of my living room.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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PtPP,
I didn't know we made a #12 BigBro. Can you send me a picture of one? What's the expansion range? The #5 'Bro, the biggest one I think we make, goes to 18". The #12 must got to four or five feet! Can't imagine why you'd want to protect a 5-foot crack but can't wait to see it.
Mal
;-)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 20, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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It must be a cave rigging tool or something..... [sheesh]
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MH2
climber
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Feb 20, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
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just passing by with a little aside for young scuffy, my b
from Shiprock Climbing History
The first time I ever saw a climbing magazine
Was that the year Hassan farted?
Token thread nod: I don't want to get into anything involving neoprene head "protection."
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 20, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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I actually had never heard of rock climbing until I was 18 or
so.
I was going to Sierra Designs to buy a sleeping bag because I
wanted to go backpacking in the Sierra. I knew I had to be
better equipped than for just sleeping outside at 4000ft in the
summertime (general Yosemite latitude).
Getting away from the cabin base seemed like a big deal at the
time.
After I'd spent some time on solo trips in the granite country
I realized that I'd better have somebody show me how not to
kill myself.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 20, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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where's the Reaper in that cartoon, I keep hearing about "talking to the Reaper"
good discussion on an refining the technique.
And it seems that the idea of having "just enough" to do the pitch, in terms of equipment, is a direction we're moving in...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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Mal - a picture of the elusive HUGE BRO™
I don't recall what size Big Bro this was, but you definitely got rid of it as soon as possible, and you never pushed it ahead of you...
Here ya go Ed - I whacked that reaper in there for ya...
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 20, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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Reaper? I keep hearing Darth Vader inside. Breathing heavily. "Who's your daddy?"
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Feb 20, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
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Well....I guess I'm a little embarrassed that I hadn't figgered this out by myself!!
The good news is that with Peter, Russ and Brutus' tips I'll be able to move directly from 5.6ow to 5.7+!!
Thanks
Gary
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 20, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Well, Gary, I was just doing some extended research in the
TradGirl/rec.climbing archives,
and it seems that engineers naturally gravitate toward the
more complex devices and systems.
Are you sure you want to skip over 5.7-?
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