Ed Webster Appreciation Thread

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Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 10, 2011 - 01:35am PT

When I was visiting with Layton and Karen Kor in the spring of 2011, Layton and I agreed that one of our top three climbing books was Storm in the Kingdom.
o-man

Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 11, 2011 - 05:29am PT
I had a great time back in the early 80's camping,climbing and hanging out with Ed, Ken Simms,and Doug Snivley before they went up on PO Wall.That was a fun time. It seemed like every one you could think of was in the valley that season.
Many of my all time favorite, most memorable and must do again before I die climbs are Ed Webster routes!
Cheers to you Ed Webster, your legend will live for ever in climbing's lore!
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
May 11, 2011 - 07:46am PT
Ed is a warm, friendly guy. It is amazing to me that after 40 years of climbing on the same cliffs, we never did a route together. I guess it was partly due to the fact that Ed was busy freeing some of my old routes while I was off working in the woods on my timber lot. Ed left a legacy of great routes, especially in the desert.

I'll be climbing on one of Ed's favorite cliffs today- Cathedral Ledge, hosting another legend--an early Australian pioneer John Ewbank.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
May 11, 2011 - 10:07am PT
SteveA- you going to Crow ? With Ewbank ? Nice.

When mt future wife met Ed for the first time I remember telling her- " Ed has all the hottest girlfriends" Her comment " No doubt, look at those eyes"!

Talk about no fingers- when i was helping out with the '96 guide to NH Ed's fingernails DID keep growing and the clatter on his computer was kinda disturbing.

Hat's off to a great guy
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 10:46am PT
Steve- Ed contacted me recently to buy a copy of Bonnie Kamps Diamond DVD and it ws the first time we have connected in thirty years. He did D1 solo back in 1977 at 21 years of age!

I hope that he will pull up a chair and share some stories from his stellar climbing career.

See if the estimable Mr. Ewbanks might join in the fun here. These threads might interest him:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=642582&msg=1410466#msg1410466

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1403361&msg=1457448#msg1457448

Have fun out there!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
Ed sent me this note recently along with a check for a Diamond DVD.

Very Big Day for the estimable Mr. Webster!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Lil' Eddy and the Hobbit Bump!
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Mar 15, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
Ed is in London at this very moment, celebrating the 25th Anniversary of the Ascent Kangshung Face. A great climb by any measure!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 16, 2013 - 04:40am PT
Ed's old east coast routes are marvels.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 16, 2013 - 08:48am PT
I learned to climb in new england, still have his book with a hole I drilled through it, so I could clip it into my harness, which I also did with the little gunks books.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
I give thanks for Lil' Eddy Webster.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 26, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
Nice shot Stewart.

You should start a thread about that expedition if you have more photos to support it. Ed doesn't post here but I bet that he would if it was in support of that trip. Life changing doesn't even come close to describing Ed's experience.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
Little Eddy Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
Maestro Webster just weighed in on the Metanoia thread.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2927435/Major-Eiger-Route-Gets-Second-Ascent-METANOIA
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2017 - 11:11am PT
Bump for WebEdster...
Vic

climber
Nov 27, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
I would wager that Ed has been involved in more FAs of classic routes enjoyed by the average climber in the Black Canyon that anyone ever was, or likely ever will be:

Scenic Cruise (IV/V 5.10+), Journey Home (IV 5.10 [5.9 R]), Checkerboard Wall (III 5.10+), Comic Relief (III 5.10), Escape Artist (III 5.9+), A Midsummer Night's Dream (III 5.11-), Highway 61 Revisited (IV/V 5.11-), Lauren's Arete (III 5.8+), Leisure Climb (III 5.9), The Flakes (IV/V 5.10+ [5.9 X]), Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+)... as well as many other equally demanding yet lesser known routes.

I am immensely grateful for his contributions to the new Black Canyon guidebook as well. This was an excellent piece of writing that he gladly donated- a shortened and tweaked version of a more extensive piece he wrote called "The Book of Kor" in Beyond the Vertical.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 08:02pm PT
Ed has his pulse on all things Layton which is why I made sure that he was in Boulder for the Diamond Reflections event and for the AAC memorial.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2126118/Diamond-Reflections-1959-67-Remembering-Layton-Kor-6-21-22
ED WEBSTER represents the BEST of what American Alpinism has to offer, plain and simple.
Those of us who have had the opportunity of interacting with these iconic American climbers out of interest and respect reap the deep rewards of getting a glimpse into the soul of real alpinism. Ed has spent a lot of time drinking from this satisfying well.
I am eternally honored to call him a friend.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Nov 28, 2017 - 05:15am PT
Ed just realizing he has severe frostbite
After getting off of the Kangshung face
On Mt Everest.
okay, whatever

climber
Nov 28, 2017 - 06:17am PT
I went to Colorado College in the early-mid 1970's with Ed, and did some climbing with him in the Garden of the Gods, mainly, but also at Turkey Rocks. He was certainly ambitious, climbing-wise, and liked to write about his climbs for the magazines. That put some people off as self-promotion, particularly in the Colorado Springs climbing community, which prided itself on being not-Boulder back then. Personally, I always liked him and his endless enthusiasm....
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