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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
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No doubt Zander...
I was thinking a space blanket, a lighter, maybe some extra toilet paper could come in handy out there.
Of course we all know this!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Great report! Thanks Roy!
Your posts are what it's all about...
D Reid
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Very nice trip report, Roy. Good job. That's rough terrain and a heck of a job going up and down it. I'll have to pick your brain about what you thought the rock was like back there. It looks pretty good.
Jack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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Jack,
I sent an e-mail to Jeff Lowe asking for more specifics about Shoshone's wall. In one of my earlier threads about a two-day solo ridge traverse along the Continental Divide from Wild Basin over to Isabelle Glacier he posted up a great picture of that wall on Shoshone's West Face. Hopefully the ones I took will allow for more detail in terms of route description; of course I think I see the line!
The rock there on Shoshone looks pretty good; but I did not touch it...
Here’s an assessment which I’m sure many of you can relate to:
An interesting thing about these trips, from a climber's perspective, is that it is like an expanded (in terms of time), or contracted (in terms of technical difficulty), version of a free solo on technical rock.
While what's primarily involved in terms of movement skills may only be defined as second and third, maybe fourth, or easy fifth class challenges, with lots of hiking over loose terrain, the time commitment and the remoteness necessitate absolute concentration, serious attention to detail and persistent movement. Distance equals time, and time equals isolation. Out of necessity, there is no resting beyond a minute or two and the flow must persist, like a steady drip, drip, drip.
Attention to detail: like the carpenters say, “measure twice and cut only once”. Each footfall, even on marginally snow-covered or rocky trail, each swing of the leg and drop of the ankle has to be assessed and executed with a high order of fastidious care. Because, aside from a thin pile vest for my core, a handful of heat packs, and critical wind protection, the available clothing is sufficient only for a MOVING climber. One slip of the ankle, or a dead headlamp, and things get serious in a hurry. You’re a long way from home on these things and when movement stops internal body heat drains quickly…
The free soloist on clean rock slips and the end is typically quick. The soloist in the wilderness slips…....then time contracts, distance compounds, a completely new order of isolation takes brutal command.
Cheers & Happy Trails,
Roy
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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To give this fine thread one more run down the page ... not sure what peak this is,
but it's near Lone Eagle. Memory's fuzzy because it was taken 38 years ago.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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The prominence on the left upper edge of your photo is Iroquois.
The glacier extending to the ridge on the right is the Peck Glacier.
You were standing to the southwest of Lone Eagle, somewhere above crater lake, looking south east, toward the divide.
Photo from Gerry Roach's book on the Indian Peaks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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And just what pray tell, Larry,
Were you and your camera doing back there?
Lone Eagle Peak?
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Chasing after the elusive Colorado snow rabbit no doubt,
got a vicious streak a mile wide...It's a killer!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Well, I would have climbed Lone Eagle but those snow rabbits chased me off ...
actually, I think I was just hiking around with a camera that day. Here's a view
of Lone Eagle itself.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Glad this got bumped, because I missed it earlier. Ton of work went into this TR--- very nice, especially the cheesy seventies retro chic map/illustration/placemat to open.
Although the shot of you crouching, Indian scout in Cowboy hat, is not quite cheesy enough.
Gorgeous country. Every time I visit the weather sucks. I've given up.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's the route (approximate) that my cousin George and I did on that face, Tarbuster. I think it was 1982? About III, 5.10, 7 or 8 pitches? I think George went back later with Dougald McDonald and did another route on the buttress to the right, in the sunshine in the photo.
I think Kor had tried our route previously, backing off of a rurp on the 3rd pitch. When I got to that point, although the cracks petered out for the rest of the pitch, and the face climbing was probably 5.10 for a ways, I kept going and it eased up after awhile, giving access to good cracks in the upper wall.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Sweet .... very nice, awesome!
Here's a close-up of the apron at the base of your route,
And I believe you would've gone up this thin left facing feature just below the red dot,
Given your description above perhaps the face climbing is actually in the red dot:
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Found this closer shot of the face, Tarbaby. Maybe it shows the route better?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Yes that is better!
We don't need no stinking topo!
Rack and Roll..............
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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The Kor reference is fun stuff.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oooo, that route looks nice!
Thanks for posting guys.
Zander
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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stunning photography!
Thank you!
-e
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Thanks!
I like pikchures.
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Jake Wander
climber
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Tarbuster, I am heading to this area and have some questions for you. I sent you a private message if you are interested in helping me out. Much appreciated!
Jake
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Bump for the Indian Peaks
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