Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
christa Marsh
Sport climber
traverse city, mi
|
|
omg- one of my biggest crack-climbing fears proven.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Christa, in the event of a really bad time, your remains could assist future climbers in overcoming a particularly difficult section of the crack... as far as I'm concerned, remains are ON!
So instead of fearing what could happen in wide cracks, just think of your potential legacy to future climbing... you'd be famous (albeit dead).
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
" ...Generator Crack would be 5.11+ if it were on pitch 8 of the Rostrum... "
Good grief.
Peace,
Kris
;-)
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Not Very Nice!
heehee
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Hey! I said "peace," and even smiled. That's more than most rabid grade inflators get.
Peace.
:-)
|
|
Jilli
Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
|
|
Karl & Erik, nice to meet you guys too!
glad you enjoyed the drum Erik! hearing all you guys play so well on it got me inspired and ive started to practice more
'ihateplastic' - wow! crazy story... thanks for sharing. man, that bench is dangerous... ill steer clear of it next time... if there is ever a next time...
actually, we should all go back there soon... ive got some friends in town from Scotland and they are keen to do some wide stuff... they can start by suffering on the Generator. ;-)
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Gillian's experience brings to mind that of Martin Boysen on Trango Tower, in 1975. He got his knee stuck in an offwidth - at 20,000 feet. No rescuers near at hand - after several hours, he battered the edge of a knifeblade until it was jagged, then used it to cut his clothing, which was fairly heavy, and self-release. Cutting his knee somewhat in the process - I believe the blood helped lubricate things.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
The topic of the fissure Boysen did come up, that day.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Kris, I was comment on Ed's post.
Peace, Erik
:-)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Nice post!
More like this please.
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Honolulu
|
|
Who did the Fa. of Generator and what year?IŽll bet they had afew beers after.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
Whymper and Joe Brown '61
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
I heard Rebuffat gastoned the thing....
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
I have found no information on the FA of Generator Crack my guess is that we might be able to narrow the time of the FA by polling the community... who did it and when did they first do it.
Maybe the age of the anchor bolts? (though I don't think the original bolts are there anymore).
It seems to be pre-mid70s.
Where's Roper when you need him?!
Maybe Eric Beck or Roger Breedlove can comment on the earlier history of the crack...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
I bet Werner knows
|
|
GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
|
|
Fantastic TR!!!
Thanks!
GO
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
I tried that route many years ago as a young neophite. Not sure my technique is that much better now.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
Hi folks,
Generator Crack was already a climb when I started in 1963. Most climbers avoided it, some didn't even know about it. By 1965 I was doing laps either side in and eventually by 1970 unroped it for a few years when I was really climbing hard. I have to suspect Pratt scored this climb, maybe by 1961. But I don't know. It sure is a good TR. and training crack. It had a lot to do with my loving offwidth.
best, ph.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Interestingly, there was another knee-stuck-in-wide-crack incident during the FaceLift, which led to a rescue. The afternoon of the first SushiFest (Tuesday) a woman got her knee stuck in Munginella, and YOSAR had to extract her. Jesse was late for sushi as a result - he had to use liquid soap to get her out. (He went back the next day and rinsed it off.)
Witticisms about 'clean' climbing may now begin.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
"unroped it for a few years when I was really climbing hard."
-Sounds familiar!
"By 1965 I was doing laps either side in"
 I was pretty much exactly 20 yrs behind you
Convergent devolution?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!