Barry Bates and Mark Klemens--Valley free climbing

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 116 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Thanks, Jim.
It's good to know Barry's well.
Not so good about "Billy Goat Gruff" and his back.

Mark's Back.
Peter Left.
Kinda sounds like LAX terminal!

How did you like the Captain Beefheart video, if you have viewed it? I liked Born in the Desert the second I started listening to it.

Klemens that good on his sassy box? I swear to Bhudda I never heard him play anything else except that f*#king Louie Louie!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Apr 29, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
If I may be allowed to contribute to this thread:
After fifty years a rock climber, among my most vivid memories is how graceful Barry looked climbing difficult cracks.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 29, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Phil,

There was this time when Royal finally met and got to see Barry boulder. It was funny for me hearing stern and serious "old" Royal relate the experience. He put it in nearly sexual terms, that Barry's climbing was so esthetic, even sensuous, to watch that he had been mildly shocked even, his first time watching. It was in Camp Four boulders somewhere. Royal was admiring this of course but was also a little blow out.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Apr 29, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
a few of recent photos of Barry climbing. Will post a couple more but I need to find them


selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Apr 29, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
a few more

richross

Trad climber
Apr 29, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Barry on Guenese, Eldorado Canyon 1977.

Gilroy

Social climber
Boulderado
Apr 29, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
TFPU Selfish Man. Love the pic of those two old-timers reminiscing about how they used to climb. NOT. Actually look like two impish troublemakers about to make something happen. My heroes and contemporaries.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 30, 2012 - 12:12am PT
Nice to see neither Barry's ability nor his lunacy have lessened much over the years. Climbing hard at great age is kinda what I expected of him long time ago. Still looney after all these years.

And let's vote to ban the phrase I have come to despise:

BACKINTHEDAY
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Apr 30, 2012 - 02:15am PT
He climbed "Lunatic Fringe," but Barry was/is in fact a very
calm, sane individual, no lunacy about him at all. We spent many
hours together on the boulders, and each time it was the most
serene experience. No egoes, just two friends who enjoyed the beauty
of climbing on every new route we could find to place our hands
and feet....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 30, 2012 - 03:08am PT
Pat, you know I don't believe he's nutso; not at all. People who do things like climbing rocks are perceived to be crazed by many in the general population and I just wanted to poke the guy.

I shall do as you suggested and will get back.

Here are some tidbits about the Goat from the Warbler from six years ago:

Warbler--"...speaking of singing the name I post under was given to me by Mark Klemens, a guitarist with the blues down deep in his soul. He would never sing and used to make fun of me every time I did!

Blinny--"Don't feel bad, Kevin, Klemens made fun of EVERYBODY!"
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 30, 2012 - 03:37am PT
Great thread for a great guy! Bruce Morris's pic from Castle is how I remember him. I learned so much from bouldering with him at Castle. Those recent pics show me that he is indeed aging with grace. Cheers, Barry, and all those who made the thread real.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 30, 2012 - 09:00am PT
Selfish man...can you e-mail me a copy of that photo of me and Barry in IC.

Back in the 70īs Barry was the smoothest climber in the Valley...he made it look soooo easy. Oh, and by the way, I always kept my girl friends away from him, smooth works in many ways.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 30, 2012 - 10:44am PT
Good thread:
Barry the master of smooth

Mark the master of wide

and....
neither one got the recognition they deserved

but....

neither one craved it.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 30, 2012 - 11:30am PT
Berry was in the first group of route setters at Pacific Edge here in Santa Cruz. What a stand-up gent.

Gym route setting was still coming of age at that time, and harder just meant thinner, for the most part. Berry got the thin holds right, but he had a real flair for putting passion to plastic.

Most tradsters hold up their noses at the thought of a gym route being 'classic,' but what can you do. It's a medium, and Berry was an artist.

Climbing his list of routes in the Valley will put a real smile on your face. Hoist!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 30, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Barry Bates and Bev Johnson lived next to me in "the refrigerator" during Easter week of 1970 (I forget which numbered campground it was or it may have been Yellow Pineapple); they shared a tent and that's all I am going to say. Discretion. Silence. Respect for Bev, one of the greatest ladies ever to grace our picnic tables, not to mention the fact BB is a married man.

I do wish some people around the Taco would remember the words of Thumper's dad. Life in the Taco forest might be more...
civil, that's the word.

This doesn't apply to Werner. No rules apply to Werner.

Except for maxims. One is never bound by them as one is by rules.

With the exception of Merry, Werner rules. This is the "maximum maxim."

He is at liberty to express himself. :)

No comments, please. Go elsewhere if you wanna talk sh#t. See how easy civility can be?
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Apr 30, 2012 - 11:50am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was one of the first members of Pacific Edge.

Agreed, Barry's routes stood out in quality.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
Barry just recently started (a couple of years ago) reclimbing. He moved to a pretty place near Boerne, a suburb in the hills east of San Antonio when his wife landed a dream position at a university there. He lost weight, started climbing at Enchanted rock--about one hour from his home. He still moves the same way he did 40 years ago. I think he climbs most days.

Here is a photo pictorial of my reentry into the world of lead climbing.


What is this gizmo and how does it work?


Oh, I got it, it's boy jewelry! Stand proud, man.


What? Oh, yeah, the rope.


It goes how? And this is easier than hip belays?


Like this?



Hey Barry, by the time you get your shoes tied, I will have forgotten how to belay.


Good thing I learned how to belay the leader. Like you need a belay! Just like old times.


I-I-I-I'll be tough. J-j-j-j-just as soon as I take my nap.


You have to have really long arms to climb in Texas.
WBraun

climber
Apr 30, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
You guys rock !!!!

For your information Klemens is all fuked up with his back.

He's been that way since the late 70's.

He used to come up here to the Valley every so often and hang out for a few days and we'd talk sh!t.

The last time he came in late fall a few years ago some bear ate thru the front seat of his car.

LOL he was so pissed off. He had no food nothing at all in that car.

Cussing and swearing he said he'd kill that fuking bear, hahaha

The spring from the seat was sticking up out of the upholstery right where your ass sits.

He drove all the way back to LA with that seat spring up his ass he was so pissed .....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 30, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Mark is an ornery bastard, guess thatīs why I like him.

Rainy day in Rio.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Apr 30, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Barry just recently started (a couple of years ago) reclimbing. He moved to a pretty place near Boerne, a suburb in the hills east of San Antonio when his wife landed a dream position at a university there. He lost weight, started climbing at Enchanted rock--about one hour from his home. He still moves the same way he did 40 years ago. I think he climbs most days.

Here is a photo pictorial of my reentry into the world of lead climbing.

Roger, I suspect the only reason you and Barry climbed Sweat roped was to use those shiny gizmos. It doesn't look like Barry placed any gear anyway

Were you visiting erock on the day of the 2010 Granite Gripper?
Messages 61 - 80 of total 116 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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