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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 29, 2008 - 02:38am PT
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fascinating, Fletcher.
Yeah, don't shoot yourself in the foot, Crimp.
live long enough and you have these kind of incidences, I had one on El Cap. I published a story about it, maybe I can dig it up...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Jul 29, 2008 - 02:41am PT
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Don't shoot yourself in the foot, good grief.
Toes are highly over rated, anyway.
Besides, you've got another foot.
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tim_b
Trad climber
Corona, CA
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Jul 29, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm lurking and laughing my ass off here, just "lying in wait" for Crimpie to give us something MORE ... I'll HAVE to keep checkin ... DIRT, Keep eggin' her on ...
(btw, just came back from Temple Crag, healing my fingerprints, did the Moon, Sun, and Venusian, but not the Big DARKIE)
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forallthat
Trad climber
snohomish, wa
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Jul 30, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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I used to climb with a guy that just couldn't leave anything behind at the base.
He had 40 lbs in his pack for a short multi pitch 5.6 climb at Smith Rock. I mentioned that since there were chains at each stance we didn't really need all the extra meals because we could rap off for dinner if it took that long (we started at 10:00 am). But he was being safe. I tried to explain to him we wouldn't need the cheater pole because I could probably reach each piece I placed to clip it. But he said you never know.
So I'm bringing him up the second pitch on a redirected belay off my harness when I feel him fall (I couldn't see him at this point). I figured he was at the crux 5.6 off width. A little slack and he falls again. This went on for about 15 minutes when I hear him yell "Take". So I start hauling in slack, but there is a lot of rope drag. And the rope just keeps coming. After awhile of hauling I started working up a sweat, my shoulder began to ache, and I'm wondering whats going on down there?
Then I see it. First comes that 40 lb pack tied off to the belay rope. Then this guy comes huffing up 10' below it, tied off on the same rope. When he got to the anchor he explained that he couldn't make the crux with the pack on. And he also says he's too tired to continue up. I agreed that I was tired too :-)
We have amicably agreed not to climb together since I take so many risks by being unprepared. And he's probably right. I still haven't recovered from the inflammation in my shoulder because I didn't take any ice with me ;-)
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
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snicker snicker...
very unsafe, not bringing that ice...
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Trippel40
Social climber
CO
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Jul 30, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
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I was in Korea for a week and had heard that they had great granite so I brought shoes, chalk bag and harness "just in case".
I can't speak the language but had relatively positive interactions with folks there in the past and this time it was no different. I was able to find a climbing shop and from them get directions to a climbing area in that classic pantomime/pidgeon english/sign language/pictionary kind of way that gets you by when all else fails. One problem solved.
I stepped off the train (Korea has a seriously kick ass public transportation system) with 100 of my new closest friends all decked out in "mtn hiking" garb of knickers, multi-pocketed vests and silly caps and followed them to a trailhead that presumably went up to a beautiful granite capped mountain with amazing features like a slightly rumpled dwarf cap pertched on top of a mountain and about 4-5 honest pitches high. After the approach I realized that, true to form, Koreans were hanging like grapefruit off every feature on the crag. All along the base were little plaques and mini headstone-looking things which, it turns out, are all memorials to dead climbers. All I can say is it should have been a sign.
So, there I am, I found a great looking crag and now I just need a partner with gear and a rope. Finally, some guy takes pity on me and lets me rope up with their group. I get up to the belay station and realize that his belay consists of a quick draw clipped to one of those petzl self drives, the rope tied in to the draw. Yikes! As I lower back to the ground, another Korean rapping by me greets me in english. Turns out he speaks a decent amount of it and has a rope and rack and agrees to hook up.
He selects a route and I totally don't know the grade or where we are going but its his crag, right? No worries. I hand him the sharp end but he refuses saying I should lead the pitch. Im thinkin', "What a nice guy, This whole Asian courtesy thing is something we all could learn a lot from." So I start up and its pretty solid 5.9 slabbage for 30m with 3 or so bolts. I had not had a lot of slab time on granite and was used to at least a few features so it kept my attention. I was half way up and realized that besides being the only round eye there I was the only one wearing a tee shirt and shorts. Yep, just your average dumb American I guess. Well, I get to the belay and up comes my new Korean friend, Han. Fearing the possibility of losing a lot of skin should I whip I cheerfully begin to hand him the gear but he tries to refuse the next lead.
"No, I insist, your turn."
"I um, I no lead, only follow."
"Sh#t,"
OK, I guess it IS my lead again!
He points the way and I notice a slimy seep crossing the path up the remainder of the slab to a nice diehedral. He reassures me its OK so I set out with his "rack" of draws and 3 cams for P2. I get to the slime and there is no way to friction through it- the rock is covered with algae and slimy. Im gettng a little worried so I find a face feature I can get one of the cans in and french free over the slime off it. I am feeling better as I reach the corner but as I keep getting higher, I realize the bolst ended at the corner and its natural gear only for 60 feet or so. My 2 remaining cams disappear fast and Im a long way from the anchors. Crap! I desperately look up over the arete forming the outer edge of the diehedral and see a line of bolts presumably for someone to climb the arete itself out on the face. I can barely reach them and clip them with draws. It creats an awful lot of rope drag but its all the pro there is. I should mention I was in no way ready at that time to attempt the arete proper. Anyway, I make it to the anchor and find some sort of eye bolt made of 1/2" or larger stock and 2 bolts arranged in a 1/2 circle with the eyebolt at "12 o'clock" and one bolt each at the 3 and 9 positions all linked with a circle of cable. If you can visualize it, only the eyebolt holds any weight, the other two are really just spacers. Well, I've got my climbing fix and my spidey sense is telling me to git while the gittin is still good and I don't earn one of the plaques at the base of the wall. Han shows up and I state that we are going down. He is cool with it and after confirming its a 60m rope with him I arrange the rap and toss the rope.
Im not fooling with Korean anchors (maybe Largo needs to translate "Climbing Anchors" for them? I rap first. The ropes end (with rope stretch) about 3' above the next station. I reach down, clip in and unload the ropes which spring back up a good hand full of feet. When Han comes down Im careful to grab the ropes above him before he comes off them. I now suspect they are in fact not 60m ropes...
The rap to the ground is also short but by 20 feet or so on blank slab. I spy a small piece of shrubbery 15' to one side 1/2 way to the ground and we aim for it then the ground. I promised Id never climb with Koreans after that!
Han was a good sport and did take me out drinking that night and I am alive so its cool I guess but sure didn't agree to meet up on Sunday for more!
I have some awesome pictures of some of the anchors and dead climber monuments somewhere. If I ever find them Ill post them.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Jul 31, 2008 - 09:40am PT
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Great stories!!! Keep 'em coming! (except Crimpie, of course ;-P)
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shwilly
Trad climber
vegas
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Jul 31, 2008 - 10:50am PT
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I can't believe I missed the video. I believe this a safety issue. may I please see the video. please
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hbriceno
Trad climber
Lyon
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Hmm... I just wanted to add a word to say that sometimes it does work out and sometimes it doesn't. I guess the most important thing is personal safety and chemistry. Although, the only exception (to chemistry, never to personal safety) is when you really really want to do a route, otherwise it is not worth it.
I had a great experience with John in Yosemite even if it was a crazy plan, but I also had simply bland experiences with other climbers, where you completed the climb, but you did not feel like writing a report or did not leave with a feeling that you had that much fun....although overall it has been good.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal Hell
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Met this guy online, we went climbing out at Josh and everything seemed fine. Later went on the trip to Tuolumne Meadows, things began to go wrong on the ride up, he was an ass with a capital A!!!
Very narcissitic and just plain mean. I was in tears by the time we got to Mammoth.
I tried to ignore his behavior knowing I was stuck with him for the next few days. Went up to the Meadows to do a multi-pitch climb. At the last anchor, he brought me up, I clipped in when he announces that we are walking off there, at that anchor! I freaking could not believe it, it was still 5th class- 5 pitches up! I begged him to continue to the top so we could walk off the back, the proper way-in my opinion- to descend. He refused.
I was never so scared in my life doing this insane walk off from that anchor! all the time he just kept haranguing me, mocking my fear, we got down safely. Got home and told him to take a hike, no desire to continue to see such a creep!!!
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Living in a different state and not climbing for ten years finding partners on line was a quick fix.
My first time out after hiking down into a canyon with ice in the stream the guy points to a small rock and states belay on the rock.
I look at him and state your rope is going to get really wet cause I’m not standing in the stream to belay.
When I meet with female climbers I pick a coffee shop or similar place to meet up.
While hanging at a belay for the first time one gal said picked me for my choice of meeting spots.
She said another guy who answered her post was taking instant gratification before even meeting or climbing.
Said if when meeting I turned out to be a total creep she could bolt .
She hooked me up with her boyfriend to climb as well.
Before full time employment, families and what not it was easier to hook up at Humber or the Lodge parking spots.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Humor bump!
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Total humor bump!
Also: hello Hector! (in case you're around)
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Bump for climbing stories
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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I recently recovered the contents of an old hard drive and ran across this gem from a few years ago. This is not my story. It was written by "Crotch" about his experience climbing with a dumb tw#t named Randee who went by the handle "Enigma" over on RC.com waaaay back in the day. I haven't seen Crotch post much around here lately, but if you're out there, dude -- let me know if you want this story yanked.
"We made plans to meet at HVCG at 10am. Plenty of time for me to drive up from San Diego. Wanting to be a good partner, I packed the night before and got an early start.
I was at the park by 9am so I decided to solo some easy routes to kill some time. 10am rolls around and I'm at HVCG but no Randee. By 11am, I give up on her and start climbing some more on my own. At 1:00 after climbing 6 or 7 routes partnerless, I find a campsite at HVCG, and set up camp. 1:30pm and I've decided to walk over to Gunsmoke, do a few laps, then head into town for an outdoor concert put on by Coyote Corner.
Just as I'm about to start walking, guess who pulls up. I make a quick decision that I might still want to climb more, so we settle on Toe Jam so that I can get a feel for Randee. As to why she was 3.5 hours late, she says that she went for a run the night before and had a hard time getting out of bed!!! I should have bailed right there, but I'm thick-headed.
It takes her forever to get her disorganized sh#t together and then halfway there she realizes she's without a nut tool so goes back to her car. Then she realizes she has to pee, but the nearest toilet is too stinky so she goes to one farther away, making me wait even more.
Finally, I'm on belay and climbing and by the time I get to the top I realize that as much as I love climbing, I despise this chick and won't share a rope with her. At the chains, I offer to let her set up the rap (2 bolts with chains, a no-brainer even for a sporto) but she says she'd feel more comfortable if I threaded the rope. Whatever.
Back on the ground, I tell her that our climbing soiree won't work out. Something to the effect of: I like to share my rope with people that I respect and that respect me, and that I feel like I'm rewarding her by climbing with her.
Her reply to this is that she won't tolerate me treating her like a child, and that I must not be able to handle strong, independent women. She says I'm lucky to have a girlfriend who can put up with my bossiness and women-demeaning attitude because no other chick would put up with me. It's like a break up after a five-year relationship and I've only known the chick for 15 minutes.
The irony is that my girlfriend is about as independent as they come. She can thread her own rappel anchors :), MD, Ph.D. student, author of a book, has onsighted .11c crack, first ascents in Alaska, you name it. If only Randee knew how ridiculous she is. So I sent her home packing and had a good laugh.
The following monday she posted something here about how she met some blonde-haired hunk and ended up in a cave with him at sunset. Something to make me jealous I suppose, but it made it more clear that she lives in a fantasy world.
Cheers,
Crotch"
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I was on a wall with a friend of a friend of a friend. I was leading a pitch and needed a piece of gear that I didn't put on the rack. It was over halfway up the pitch, so I tell the partner to untie the haul line from the pig and send a continuous loop.
So I am hanging onto the haul line with one hand when he undoes the pigs and starts lowering them out on the very overhanging pitch. He didn't quite get it. Picture this:
Screaming guy on junky gear holding a full pig in one hand. All of the slack in the rope is dangling in space. I hang on while he lassos the pig somehow and pulls it back in.
Since we were starting the route, I bailed at the anchor. The bastard went back and soloed it the next year.
No lie. I am scarred by it to this day.
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WBraun
climber
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Base104 -- "So I am hanging onto the haul line with one hand when he undoes the pigs and starts lowering them out on the very overhanging pitch."
Holy sh'it!!! LOL
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Swear to God.
I was pissed! Hanging onto the pig with one hand and about fifty feet of slack. 40 feet or so short of the end of the pitch. Just picture it in your mind...
I thought that I was pulling up some baby angles.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Bwah-haa!! Hilarious! First time I read this E, busted a gut! Bowel fixation! You just scared the Sh2T out of him that's all!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't.
No sweat, K---- -....We have differing styles, is all.
I HATE yours. Not you.
Relax, sista. You'll have more fun.
Still love ya.
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