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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
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Imagine my surprise, as I walk in to the visitor center at Devil's Tower to have a look. There is a glass cased display of "ancient" climbing gear which includes a pair of my first climbing shoes: Kronhoffers.
These days I really like the Sportiva Mythos for all around, the Scarpa Inferno's (once broken in) for more technical, and I still have a couple pairs of the old Scarpa Edge's for the hard core granite razor blade stuff.
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guavajelly57
Trad climber
berkeley
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Feb 14, 2006 - 08:50pm PT
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As to the question "Has anybody tried on both Mad Rock and Five-Ten shoes? Is their sizing similar, I mean is the size 10 the same fit for both makers?"
When i was looking into new shoes last fall, i tried out a few shoes, Evolv rock star, various Mad Rock shoes, and eventually ended up with the 5.10 Anasazi, which by far out performed the mad rocks. But to the question no. I could not get my moderately wide foot into a mad rock, while the Anasazi lock on nicley. and when i sized up into a Mad rock to try it out the rubber was definately inferior.
my .02
adam
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 14, 2006 - 09:54pm PT
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Acopa "Sidewinder"
Acopa "B3"
Acopa "Spectre"
Real shoes for real climbers!!!! heh heh, jb
hobo - If ya really want another pair of Icampas I can get you a pair!!! You should check out the new stuff though...you'd be surprised.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:01pm PT
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JB, post up a link for those of us who don't know about these (never miss a chance for a shameless plug ), I'm in the market for a new pair of shoes.
Until then, the UFO's, got two pair, different models. love em both, ones on the second resole, ones on the third, both need another but might not be enough shoe left to attach any new rubber...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
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Blowboarder! No problem...
acopausa dot com /
Mexican rubber - eeet's verrrrry steeecky! Simon...jb
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:41pm PT
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jb, cool.
Care to compare the B3 and the Sidewinder? Those two jumped right out at me, hard to argue with velcro but the aggressive last on the Sidewinder looks tempting.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:48pm PT
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Barefoot on SoIll sandstone out at Giant City.
Otherwise, Blue Kaukulators - still climbing in a like-new pair I got on ebay. Never cared for the brown ones or the Megas. I have a pair of Megas, but I cut off the achillies' rands on them so you could actually wear them all day. Haven't worn them once since getting a new pair of BlueK's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:24am PT
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Blowboarder!
Yeah - B3 is a pretty aggresive sport shoe with improved outside edge action. Toe point is wicked - got Editor's choice award in Climbing magazine about a year and an half ago.
Sidewinder is way crazy - very specialized. It's basically built on a generalized mold of the foot in climbing position. The last isn't flat on the bottom like most (all) shoes. A little tricky for dime edges but good on pockets, bumpy rock, pebbles, smearing, and thin cracks. It's all I climb in nowadays but took me over a year to make the change. You can use all kinds of "non-Euclidian" features which are there but I never looked at them (if you got a square peg you look for square holes). If you got a flat edge shoe you look for flat edges. This thing's shape makes you look for all kinds of other features that you didn't realize were there - once you realize how many there are you want the Sidewinder more and more. Gripped magazine gave it a rave review for pocket climbing - pretty advanced shoe though.
Really, the B3 is more practical but the Sidewinder will change your footwork forever...
plug, plug....Cheers, jb
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
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JB:
Any retailers in San Diego County carrying Acopa? I'd like to try them on first. I've got a D width, boxy foot. I've never been able to wear any model of Sportiva shoe. My favorites were (1) the Scarpa Edge, (2) after a resole, the black and green Boreal Aces, which fit like a glove, and (3) Fires. I tend to face climb on granite more than anything else, so I like the board lasted shoes. What model Acopa would you recommend?
P.S. REI doesn't carry them anymore. None at Nomad Ventures either.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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John- I'd have to say go with the Aztecs! They're super comfy and good for edging. Kinda like an low top fire classic with way better shaping. The Mexican rubber is also really sticky like the old Fires. They accomodate a wide foot quite well. Peter Croft wears them too (he's got pretty wide feet too!). Gimme a shout if you need more help with sizing! I'm pretty sure you'll be stoked....cheers, jb
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jbaker
Trad climber
Takoma Park, MD
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
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My favorites are still the black and green Aces. Then Kaukulators. The worst I ever had were a pair of Kamets.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Feb 15, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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My however many cents:
Acopa has the stickiest rubber, most sensitivity, bar none.
Five ten is almost as sticky.
Sportiva is most durable, my miuras have been through six resoles.
Mad rock sucks my balls. Really, ive tried them, and there is a noticable sh#t-factor.
That has been my experience.
alex
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Feb 15, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
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Green and Black Aces did it all, only needed to carry around one pair of shoes. the Fire Cats were damm good could lace 'em right down to the toe. Had a pair of RD's resoled with EB rubber, kicked A back in the day with the leather uppers called them RB's.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Well, a lot has happened in a year. Still have the Synchros, still love them, but I've discovered really the perfect shoe for my foot. Maybe I should not fall victim to the discontinuation blues like so many before, and order like twenty pairs. Although, I don't think I'll have to, as they're quite popular, and not in a flash in the pan-type way either. I'm talking about the Muiras. All I wear now. LOVE them. So damn comfortable. I have a long (12/13), low volume, high arch narrow foot. I crank them down tight (the top view looks like a football, you can see almost no tongue until you're halfway up the laces) and I'm good to go. I don't take them off when I belay.
But I really, really want to try a pair of the Acopas.
As a side note, my bro gets Montrails for mega cheap, and has three different models. i don't know which ones, but he freakin swears by em. LOVES em. Loves the rubber and everything.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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My Fires and Fire-Cats have been re-soled a couple of times each, they work good enough for me. I'm keeping them until they start making high-top boots again. I use an old pair of Asolo Shoe-nard/Canyons for bicycling. Nice, stiff soles. Their smooth profile makes them easy to get into toe-clips.
Follow five-ten and ride 50 miles in the same shoes.
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LOWERme
Trad climber
Santa Fe N.M.
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Feb 16, 2006 - 02:45am PT
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And here I thought that the Valley was the only place men could go and feel comfortable talking about shoes!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 08:03am PT
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I had a pair of PAs that when they needed to be resoled I had EB soles put on, so I had the stiffness of the PA last for edging and the stickiness of the EB rubber for smearing. Worked okay.
But of course my first climbing shoes were RRs, tried Chouinards (Shoenards) but really didn't like them (though I understand Henry Barber really though they were the biz), and of course EBs and then Fires.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 08:51am PT
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Ventors have replaced Ascents as my trad shoe.
But you haven't felt real comfort until you try the Nike Cinder Cones. Unfortuneatly discontinued too.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2006 - 09:25am PT
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My first pair of the old red PAs. Hard unsticky rubber, but what a change of attitude when I first put them on. Free climbing, yeah!
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