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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Jun 24, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
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Great TR Holly. Super inspiring. The Shield Headwall is so unique, and your photos caught alot of that. We did it a few year after C. Fowler's clean ascent, and placed less than 3 pins. Probably placed around 5 heads (memory's fading). Still remember the groove as one of the scariest pitches I have lead on the captain, because of all the fixed junk and dead rurps and heads. Lots of tiny parachute cord had been tied thru some of em, but was fraying and looked like shyte. F%$#, I could see myself zippering the whole line and going past the shield roof if I peeled near the anchors! Spooky.
A friend took a shot of us on the headwall.
Thanks for the TR!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jun 24, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
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This sounds like a great way to do the route.
Do fixed lines always exist up to Mammoth?
Haul the gear up. Take a rest day. Then Free Blast it?
Is that how it was done?
Juan
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JAK
climber
The Souf
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Jun 24, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
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Good God the Shield is a badass route.
Awesome TR.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 24, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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OK, here is another photo from Kristoffer Szilas' website, showing the transition between the real 1st and 2nd Triple Cracks (not the 2nd and 3rd!):
I believe it shows exactly what Holly described. The bolt between the cracks is clipped with a silver sling to a red biner on the rope, just above the follower.
Above that, there are two more placements in the 1st crack, before reaching right to the 2nd crack. So the bolt is there, but apparently the bottom of the 2nd crack is too blown out to get a placement, so now people traverse higher (without using the bolt for the traverse move).
http://www.bivuak.dk/szilas/foto/07_yose/album/slides/R0010920.html
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Jimmy Jam
Big Wall climber
Naples, Florida
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Jun 25, 2008 - 08:38am PT
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The best El Cap report. Ever! Great photos on the Shield, and the photos of the other routes gave a nice perspective.
Thank you for your time and effort putting together this fine report. And congratulations to you and Lorna for your full-on climbing skills up the Shield.
Schwing!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 25, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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Holly,
I know from your previous post that you're certainly no newbie (in fact you've climbed the Captain way more than I have), so I assumed that you would've tried and been able to use other options had they seemed realistic.
To be honest, what bothered me the most when we did it way back when was the proliferation of bolts at every belay, stretching four or five across, even though you could often get great gear in the crack. That's a whole 'nother issue though.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 25, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
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Jim,
Your photos were good, too. It looked like maybe you were able to reach from the bolt to the second crack, without placing higher stuff in the first crack?
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Jun 25, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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Awesome, those pics of the headwall were bliss
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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A great trip report and really great photos as well.
Very very impressive.
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Yeah Holly!!!!!! You are bad ASS. We screamed happy birthday up to Lorna, did you guys hear us? Sweet pictures. BITCHIN!!!!!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Bump
Because this is just flippin cool!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 30, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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bump for team send it alot
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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bump-day bump!
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Hey, Did I miss this feature. Are trip reports going to show up in both the trip report section and the front page? That is great !!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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There are places you go in your life that you will never forget. The shield en toto is one of those places. like I said above, this report puts me right back there. Great work on the climb and the report, thanks!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Very nice indeed good to see this back up on the front page
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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You two are just incredible!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 10, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Proud!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 10, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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That's about as close as I'll ever get to doing The Shield. Totally proud TR!!!!
Best
lars
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Oct 10, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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Great! Good for you! : )
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