Discussion Topic |
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 27, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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Thank you for all the responses.
This list is something you might consult if you happen to find yourself, for reasons unknown, near a cool rock climbing area, with a minimum of gear.
You could just pop into a library and get online, and look up routes and directions.
I figure with the price of gas, you do not want to drive around J Tree all night.
I guess most climbers drive around with six or seven beat up guide books under the front seat to keep the King Cobra bottles from janglin?
But just in case.
It helps if you give the rock formation when citing a climb in a huge area, like YNP and J Tree.
As a side note, what is cell phone reception like near the Needles and The Palisades?
The Incredible Hulk?
Thank you in advance.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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May 27, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
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Both Haystack and Corrugation have a fixed pin each. Of course the fixed pin on Corrugation is a "friend" piece, as you only clip it to have company while you fall.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
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Moof, that is funny.
And of course, make the distinction between "fixed" gear and "stuck" gear.
Although, some stuck gear does indeed become fixed.
There is a certain beauty in climbing long routes that are as clean as the day
before they went up. As you walk away, there is still just the stone.
Thanks for sharing these routes. I gotta get out to Temple Crag to visit some
of those beauts.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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May 27, 2008 - 11:06pm PT
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The Yawn had an old square-nut 1/4" bolt at the first belay, five or so years ago anyway.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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May 28, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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Sucks that bolts went in on Darkstar (such a great route), but there were a few fixed pins low on the route too (if I recall correctly), which means it is not "clean" by the OP criteria...
Brian
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 28, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
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Note that none of this is etched in granite.
ROUTES WITHOUT FIXED GEAR (In the old days at least)
-----------------CALIFORNIA---------
Idywild - Tahquitz/Suicide
DRIVING ROUTE
Google Map:http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=33.814525,-116.890411&spn=0.159168,0.368042&z=11&pw=2
Climbs:
Wet Dreams - Follows best part of Flower of High Rank - Northeast Buttress - Suicide Rock
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahquitz__suicide_rocks/suicide_rock/105990955
Here are links to Flower Of High Rank - Just In Case:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahquitz__suicide_rocks/suicide_rock/105788563
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Riverside_County/Suicide_Rock/NE_Buttress/Flower_of_High_Rank_59262.html
The Palisades - Easter Sierra
DRIVING ROUTE
Take the I-395 to the town of Big Pine.
Once in town, head west up to the Glacier Lodge trailhead and park at roads end.
If you fall short logistically, the Glacier Lodge store/resturant has a few "amenaties".
Take the North Fork trail of Big Pine Creek up to Third Lake (approx 7 miles). There are fairly good bivy sites scattered around the lake.
If taking an approach line around the eastern side of Third Lake, use caution in the talus field of Mt. Alice (slides occur often!).
Upon summiting, take the southeastern descent to Contact Pass and return to Third Lake. Better yet.....have some fun and glissade!!
Google Map:http://maps.google.com/maps/mm?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=37.15375,-118.341637&spn=0.038172,0.09201&z=13&pw=1
Temple Crag Overview http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=14625
Climbs:
Venusian Blind http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hitevenu
Dark Star http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2000/584.html
Swiss Arete on Mt Sill http://www.sierramountaincenter.com/rock_swiss_arete_sill.html
The Needles - Forks of the Kern
DRIVING ROUTE
* From 99 Near Tipton-Which is just south of Tulare
*61.5 mi – about 1 hour 33 mins.
*Head east on Avenue 144/CA-190 toward Drive 105/S Evans Rd
*Continue to follow CA-190 18.3 mi
*Continue straight onto CA-190 E/E Poplar Ave
*Continue to follow CA-190 E28.9 mi
*Turn left at CA-190 8.9 mi
*Continue on CR-107/Western Divide Hwy 0.9 mi
*Turn left at Needles Rd/NF-21S05 4.6 mi
*To:Needles Rd/NF-21S05
Alternate Route from the South-178 Out of Bakersfield to Johnsondale.
US Forest Map:http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sequoia/maps/quad_maps/Sequoia_South/camp_nelson.htm
The Needles Mini Guide http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/NeedlesMiniGuide/index.html
The Witch - One of the Needles http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Western_Sierra/Needles/Witch/
Climbs:
Igor Unchained - The Witch
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/the_needles__kern_river/the_needles/105834219?highlightphrase=igor+unchained&
http://vertical20.com/Mo_Classic_Climbs.html
http://www.summitpost.org/route/162756/igor-unchained.html
Prescription - West Face of the Charlatan Needle http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/NeedlesMiniGuide/Charlatan/charlatan.html
The Land Down Under-Hermit Spire
(Note: This link is for the "Jazzing" route. I could not find much on "Land Down Under", but the approach should be similar.)
http://www.summitpost.org/route/157356/hermit-spire-jazzing.html
Here is a "Land Down Under" template, but no Beta yet:http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=76319
Joshua Tree
Guide From Rick Booth http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/articles/JoshuaTree.asp
DRIVING ROUTE
*Turn Left at San Bernardino
*Follow the "chalk" dust
Climbs:
Rusty Wall - Echo Rock Area - Echo Tee Road
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/echo_rock_area/105720813?highlightphrase=rusty+wall&
Coarse and Buggy - Dihedral Rock - Roadhouse Rocks
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/roadside_rocks/105725122
Equinox - Jerry's Quarry - Geology Tour Road
http://www.summitpost.org/route/349069/equinox.html
Fisticuffs - Tumbling Rainbow Formation - Real Hidden Valley
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/real_hidden_valley/105724495?highlightphrase=Fisticuffs&
Clean and Jerk - Sports Challenge Rock - Real Hidden Valley
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/real_hidden_valley/105721792?highlightphrase=clean+and+jerk&
Chockstone Chimney - Short Wall - Indian Cove
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/indian_cove/105721762?highlightphrase=chockstone+chimney&
Right Baskerville Crack - Baskerville Rock - Quail Springs
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/quail_springs/105723289?highlightphrase=Right+Baskerville+&
Yosemite
Climbs:
New Dimension-Arch Rock http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoarnewd
Via Aqua-Yosemite Falls http://www.exo.net/~pauld/climbing/ViaAqua/viaaqua.html
Beggar's Buttress-Lower Cathedral Peak - http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/025ymem.txt
More Info on the area:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105833490
South East Buttress of Cathedral Peak http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucasout
Absolutely Free - Lower Brother,Base http://www.climerware.com/yos996c.htm
South Face oh North Dome http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yondsout
Doggy Deviations - Camp 4 http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yocadog3
Doggy Diversions - Camp 4 http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yocadog2
Nutcracker - Manure Pile Buttress http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yomanutc
Regular Route 5.9 - Fairview Dome - T Meadows
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucowesthttp://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucowest
On The Lamb - Lamb Dome - T Meadows
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/tuolumne_meadows/105862991?highlightphrase=on+the+lamb&
The Yawn - Medlicott Dome - T Meadows
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/tuolumne_meadows/105903295?highlightphrase=the+yawn&
West Ridge - Mount Conness - T Meadows
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucowest
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/tuolumne_meadows/106167844
Lover's Leap
Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=lovers+leap,ca&sll=38.770547,-120.292397&sspn=0.029377,0.056219&ie=UTF8&ll=38.801591,-120.136271&spn=0.029365,0.056219&t=p&z=14
Climbs:
The Line - East Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loealine
Bear's Reach-East Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loeabear
Hay Stack-East Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loeahays
Corragation-Main Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomacorr
Traveller's Buttress-Main Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomatrav
Hospital Corner-West Wall http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lowehosp
Surrealistic Pillar-Lower Buttress http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lolosurr
Donner Summit - Black Wall
Map: http://www.kgt.net/rockclimb/donner_summit/index.html
Climbs:
One Hand Clapping - The Black Wall
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahoe_vicinity/donner_pass/105736426
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Lake_Tahoe/Donner_Summit/Black_Wall/One_hand_clapping_8791.html
Mt Russell - Near Mt Whitney
Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=36.589964,-118.290052&spn=0.032804,0.058365&t=p&z=14
Climbs:
Fishhook Aręte
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/high_sierra/mt_russell/105802684
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hirufish
Mt. Whitney
Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=36.577042,-118.291812&spn=0.016405,0.029182&t=p&z=15
Climbs:
East Buttress
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/high_sierra/mt_whitney/105789686
Sequoia/King's Canyon - Chimney Rock
Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&t=h&msid=105750964285840916889.00044e51b8143e0620061&ll=36.684389,-118.8625&spn=0.009602,0.021071&z=15>;
Climbs:
Wall Of Early Morning Fright-Chimney Rocks Area - Sequioa National Park
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Wall_of_Early_Morning_Fright_65738.html
--------------------NEVADA---------
Red Rocks -Las Vegas
DRIVING ROUTE
*Red Rocks is just west of Las Vegas and can be accessed
from various points in Vegas, and from Highway 160 from the Death Valley area.
Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps/mm?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=36.130111,-115.331039&spn=0.15473,0.368042&t=p&z=11&pw=1
Online Guides and Pics:
http://www.gearlooptopo.com/topos.html?area=redRocks
http://www.jakeburkey.com/rrc/default.aspx?View=Beulah's+Book
http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Nevada.html#50NAC
Climbs:
Olive Oil - Juniper Canyon - Rose Tower http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rerooliv
http://www.jakeburkey.com/rrc/default.aspx?View=Olive+Oil
Olive Oil Pics: http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Red%20Rocks/Olive%20Oil/Olive.htm
http://www.alpinefever.com/desert%202003/olive%20oil.htm
Mother's Milk - Hunter S Thompson Dome - Second Pullout
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/second_pullout/105884605?highlightphrase=Mothers+milk&
Open Country Joy - Left of Beaulah's Book-Solar Slab Wall - Oak Creek Canyon
(I did not find that exact route name anywhere, but here are a few nearby route links):
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resobeul
http://www.jakeburkey.com/rrc/default.aspx?View=Beulah's+Book
http://www.gearlooptopo.com/selectedTopo.html?topo=beulahsBook
Could this be the same thing?:
"Memory Lane: Beaulah's Book sandwiches a beautiful, thin dihedral
between extensive easy (5.6) but extremly run out pitches."
-----------------ARIZONA---------
Granite Mountain Area - Prescott, Arizona
Static Hwy Map of Arizona:
http://www.go-arizona.com/AZ/images/maps/Arizona-Map-Final.gif
Prescott Arizona Area Map:
http://www.arizona-leisure.com/gfx/maps/prescott-area-map-400.gif
Overall Guide: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/105787785
Middle Section: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/middle_section/105792404
Swamp Slabs - http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/swamp_slabs/105792392
Right Section - http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/right_section/105792415
Geo Topo:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2004/gardner_canyon/granite_mountain_area_topo.gif
Climbs:
Magnolia Thunder Pussy - Middle Section - (5.9), 4 pitches
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/middle_section/105886456
Grody Coyote (5.7), 2 pitches
Slammer Jam via Reunion/Classic start - Middle Section - (5.10-), 5 pitches
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/middle_section/105886478?highlightphrase=slammer+jam&
Said and Done - Middle Section - (5.9+), three pitches
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Central/Granite_Mountain/Middle_Section/Said_and_Done_15212.html
Debut - Swamp Slabs - (5.5), 2 pitches
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Central/Granite_Mountain/Swamp_Slabs/Debut_48377.html
Chameleon - Middle Section - (5.8), 3 pitches
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Central/Granite_Mountain/Middle_Section/Chameleon_48686.html
Chim-Chimney Direct - Middle Section - (5.6), 3 pitches
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Central/Granite_Mountain/Middle_Section/Chim_Chimney_48690.html
Falling Ross - Right Side - (5.10), 3 pitches
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/granite_mountain/right_section/105978206
Cochise Stronghold - Tombstone Arizona - Hwy 80 - Dragoon Mountains - Coronado National Forest
Driving Map:
http://www.cochisestrongholdbb.com/area/mappic01.jpg
Detailed Area Map:
http://www.cochisestronghold.com/cochisestronghold/maps.html
Driving Instructions:
Drive east from Tucson on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee).
Head south (right) on Arizona Hwy. 80 for about 20 miles.
Just before Tombstone, take a left on Middlemarch Road.
Follow this gravel road almost ten miles to Forest Road 687.
Turn left and follow this dirt road another ten miles to its end, keeping right at the ranch.
The last few miles can be quite rough, and conditions vary greatly with weather conditions.
Some may want a high clearance vehicle, but most passengers cars will make it.
In Sunsites, AZ, take Ironwood Rd. (off State Rt. 191) west 9.1 miles to campground entrance. Once inside the Forest, Ironwood Rd. becomes Forest Rt. 84. NOTE: After, 3.8 miles, Ironwood Rd. (and Forest Rt. 84) becomes a rough, rocky dirt road. There are five stream crossings on Forest Rt. 84 that can be forded if not wet weather.
Detailed Driving Instructions to the Wasteland:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/the_wasteland/105824758
Dr.Topo:
http://www.drtopo.com/includes/images/download_topo_btn.png
http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/usa/arizona/6/cochise.pdf
The Wasteland-Cochise Stronghold - East Stronghold
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/the_wasteland/105824762?highlightphrase=the+wasteland+&
--------------------UTAH---------
Wasatch Mountain Range - Salt Lame City
Google Map - Lone Peak:
http://maps.google.com/maps/mm?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=40.53285,-111.763573&spn=0.124206,0.233459&t=p&z=12
Topo of Approach:
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/377534.jpg
Climbs:
Triple Overhangs - Summit Wall - Lone Peak Cirque 5.10a, 4 pitches, Lone Peak. I don't remember any fixed pins, but a few might exist.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/lone_peak_cirque/105741389?highlightphrase=triple+overhangs&
Eleventh Hour - Sun Dial - Big Cottonwood Canyon 5.8, 4 pitches, Sundial. No fixed gear and should remain that way.
At least one person has suggested adding fixed belays.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/big_cottonwood_canyon/105740582?highlightphrase=eleventh+hour&
Center Thumb - South Summit Wall - Lone Peak Cirque 5.9+, 5 pitches, Lone Peak. At the time of my ascent(97)
I made a special notice in my guide book about the lack of fixed gear.
It now appears to have at least one pin and one bolt at separate belay stations.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/lone_peak_cirque/105741161?highlightphrase=center+thumb&
--------------------MONTANA---------
Gallatin Canyon
Dynamic Map of Montana:
http://www.mdt.mt.gov/travinfo/maps/montana_map.shtml
Climbs:
Pineapple Thunderpussy - Pineapple Buttress
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/montana/gallatin_canyon/pineapple_buttress/105961779
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Montana/South_West/Gallatin_Canyon/Pineapple_Buttress/Pineapple_Thunderpussy_39289.html
------------------COLORADO---------
Black Canyon National Park - Gunnison
Road Map:
http://www.black.canyon.national-park.com/images/areamap.jpg
Park Map:
http://www.black.canyon.national-park.com/images/blackcanyon.jpg
Climbs:
Comic Relief - North Chasm View Wall - Black Canyon
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/gunnison/black_canyon/105750646?highlightphrase=comic+relief&in
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 29, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
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Dr. Rock, thanks for correcting "The Needles" photo.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 29, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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Couple of things. First, there are zillions of alpine rock routes that don't have fixed gear.
Second, a question: Most of the posters to this thread seem to agree that "no fixed gear" equals "better experience". But doesn't "no fixed gear" require descent either via a walk-off or via some other route? What about cases where the only sensible descent is back down the way you came up? Virtually all of those routes require some kind of fixtures for the rappels, which, in almost all cases, means fixed belay stations. Is this bad? Is a route you have to rap worse than a route you can walk off the back side of?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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May 29, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Come to think of it, someone out there (baby frog?) was telling me the story about when the army rangers were doing mountain training at the leap, hogging all the classic 5.6's and 5.7's. The very Alpha male sargeant (or whatever he was) of course had to do better tha his pee-ons, and got onto Haystack. Sarge kept taking whippers on the fixed pin below the roof (rather than placing any gear higher. Stubborness and testosterone had taken over.
He eventually slugged it out.
Later at the bar baby frog and I believe Linda suantered in and were talking about Hospital Corner. An interesting exchange ensued, leaving the Sarge taken down a notch having whipped on a 5.8, while this scrawny chick he just finished mocking cruised a 10a on lead.
I've mangled the story, but it was a hoot.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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May 29, 2008 - 04:59pm PT
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Ghost,
Ideally one will walk off as the ultimate in experience, and the ideal for leave no trace. Heck, in Jtree most fo the walkoffs are more terrifying than the climbs. Rapping the route you just did of course clogs the route for the conga line going up behind you.
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itso
climber
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May 29, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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Dr.Rock, very good effort. For great pictures of the Kern Needles check out monsteroffwidth.com. Also note that Igor Unchained features some fixed gear(piton, rap rings), and Equinox has rap/TR bolts. I believe OP's intention was to describe routes without any intentional, or permanent fixed gear. These are rare beauties!
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bkalaska
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 18, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Great to see a pic of Acadia. Green Mtn. Breakdown is a great route w/o fixed gear the last time I did it, but there is a large hex stuck further up the dihedral on Chitlin's Corner.
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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Feb 18, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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Community Pillar in Red Rocks had zero fixed stuff when we did it couple years ago.
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Nkane
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Feb 18, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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Lots of gearless routes at the Gunks (though many have a pin at the crux...)!
Also a story about Nutcracker - I was following the first lieback pitch, and cleaned all the pieces. I went to return the gear to my partner at the belay, and he looked at one beat-up Wild Country Rock, and said in his Eastern European accent, "but I tzought zat vas fixed!" It's been on my rack ever since.
Unfortunately the clouds moved in so we decided to bail from the first ledge. Hope to get back on that route soon...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!