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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Mar 31, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
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Steel shank notwithstanding, I believe the biggest difference
between the two Vasque Ascenders (green vs. brown) is the thick-ness of the plastic midsole/insole.
The green ones had a thick layer, 1/4" or maybe thicker, uniform,
heel to toe.
I pulled that unit out of one pair, ground it down in the fore
foot so that it tapered to nothing, and reassembled the shoe,
with a Nitrene sole. The shoe seemed wider because of the extra
room, though the change was actually in interior height rather
than width.
I think that was the actual difference between the two models.
I modified that pair before the brown ones were introduced.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 31, 2008 - 05:58pm PT
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that's way cool guys - rock on
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Mar 31, 2008 - 05:59pm PT
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Regarding the photo in Tarbuster's post...
left to right
Pivetta Spider. Specifically for climbers. Very stiff. More
midsole than a Cortina, which was the unlined Pivetta used by
Bob Kamps for many years. The Spider was also much narrower than
the Cortina
Kronhoffers with rands and Nitrene sole, modifications made in
1974
Kronhoffers with a stickier sole. No other mods.
Can't find my nearly-perfect Directissimas.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 31, 2008 - 06:16pm PT
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closest I had to a "real" kletter shoe
was a Pivetta Muir Trail,
think it was lined, padded in ankle/cuff -
very closely trimmed Vibram sole, kinda thin as
I recall - great boot.
gee, might need a trip to the Neptune boot museum
pretty soon
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Mar 31, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
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Lowe Pinnacle/Little Finger-1976-5.10c Hartmans Rocks Gunnison, Tom Pulaski new Vasques
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 31, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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handsome foot-wear there,
geek free,
beautiful.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 31, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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I too pulled the midsole out of the green Shoe-Nards. Soft as slippers they became, before there were rock slippers, and my favorite guiding shoes for a season or two.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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The Red Spider was Pivetta's knock-off of the Robbins Boot.
The Muir Trail was the successor to the Cortina, but it was
lined, a very comfortable hiking boot for its time.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Nice photo, Tar, of Scruffy's booties. I, too, started off with a pair of Muir Trails, but eventually justified getting a pair of boots solely for climbing. Here's a vintage pair of authentic kletterschuhe. Note that this pair of Kronhoffers still has the original sole and (I believe) the original laces:
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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...wandered out to the junk room looking for some ballistic cloth to patch my crash pad. In the box, I found two pair of pristine Gallenkamp Scats. Both priced, on sale, for $9.97. Totally forgot I even had them!
Scats. Truly the shits!
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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veddy interesting. . .
Gosh, I got into it with my RR's, then went to
PA's, EB's and then Fires. . .
but no kletterschue. . .
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Your last entries are stunning, Robs.
The Kronies have to be on their original sole for the uppers
to be that nice.
The Semperit KletterSuper.
Tarbuster's Directissimas surprise me a little.
All the Directissimas I've seen, and some Kronhoffers as well,
had the Marwa Klettersohle. Tarbuster's have the Semperit
Klettersohle which has the double row of lugs in the middle.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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The Scats were phenomenal.
Really sticky rubber.
I think what makes a running shoe work is the degree of stiffness in it. The overall construct of a running shoe being a little bit squishy due to the soft uppers and foam midsoles; finding something with some stiffness, or adding that by resoling it with climbing rubber really helps to support the foot on an edge, yet you still benefit from some overall comfort over a climbing boot.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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Look again stuffy,
The pictures I posted up show the Marwa sole.
Are we nerdly or what?
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Thanks for the prompt, Roy.
Looking again would have been a good thing to do.
Trying to figure out what I was thinking, I think I
was fixated somehow on the soles of your Robbins
Boots, which are unusual.
Your directissimas, of course, have the same sole they all did.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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OK, a little story to tie some ends together, or just reinforce
people's opinions , or something...
8 years ago, I was going through the consignment store in
Jackson Hole when I spotted some Kronhoffers. No glue on the
toes. A small hole worn through the toe of one. Pretty small
looking. Hmmm. Size 3 1/2B. Hmm. Vibram/Shoenard sole.
Whoa. Hold it right there.
I'd held that pair of shoes in my hand, in 1975, in that exact
condition. I had resoled them in 1974, for Sherrie McVoy.
The sole had come from the green Shoenards which I dissected and
modified for Dale Bard.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Kronie's show up in unlikeley places...
1972, "Silent Running" a sci-fi w/ Bruce Dern:
(just watched it & nabbed these 'screenshots)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
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Scats were the inspiration for Charles Cole's original Five Tennie.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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these brown scats have me confused. every pair of scats i ever owned -- and i must have gone through a dozen -- were blue, with a blue rubber that was super lightweight, almost like a very, very hard foam. and there was no rubber layer up around the toe like you see in rob's scats, at least not that i remember?. rob, what year did you buy these? they look totally different from any i've ever seen.
fwiw, the scats i ran were every bit as good as e.b's for most routes. when they were right out of the box they had phenominal edging power. i did many hard routes at suicide in them, the south face of the throne in baja, all the hard faces and cracks up at woodson. at 16 bucks a pair i wore them not so much for the burn-off factor but because they were so much cheaper than e.b.s, and a lot easier to con my mom into buying for me!
scats -- the original "accidental kletterschue."
edit: ok, i think i may have had a brown pair -- could be false memory -- however, all i truly concretely recall is blue.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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What a fun thread! Just today I had all my climbing shoes out playing with them. Lined them up. Oogled. Tried them on. Oogled. Wondered why I'd not been wearing many of them.
During this fun, it occurred to me how interesting a shoe thread would be and voila - here is one.
Thanks for bringing this back!
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