Amazing solo stories...

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rookers

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Jul 8, 2009 - 02:44pm PT

The Darth Vader picture and the request for a Derek Hersey story lead me to:

Mid 80's sometime, I am roped on either sh*t hooks or Darth Vader (I don't remember which). My wife is lounging at the base, enjoying a book and along comes John and he solos whichever one we were not on... He comes back around, sidles shirtlessly up to my wife and asks "What was that route I just soloed?", my wife (still) looks back at him and asks 'who the f*ck are you?' I thought my partner (Mike Forkash) was going to lose it right there he was laughing so hard. She got properly introduced at that point and we had a nice chat.

A few years (92?) later and I have dashed from work to do the first pitch of the Naked Edge, just because it's a favorite of mine. We get it done and I look over to the right and there is a new clip-up there. It looks pleasant enough and we decide to do it. Up comes Derek soloing from the base of Redgarden and asks what we are up to. I knew him a bit from the area and we had done a couple of things together at Devil's Tower. Anyway, Derek decides he wants to do this new thing with us and asks if we could wait while he gets his harness. So he down solos beneath us, runs to his bag, grabs his harness and solos back up to us! We jump on this thing (Slow Train Comin') and get it done.

RIP both of you.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Aug 14, 2009 - 12:13am PT

John Bachar on Father Figure, 5.12 Joshua Tree ;...photo taken by Allen Roberts ( The Voice).

TripleS_in_EBs

climber

Poulsbo, WA

Apr 3, 2010 - 01:32am PT

Happened to find this thread today. Wow. This stuff is treasure. And the discussion was started by John himself. This one's a keeper, for sure.

If it weren't for SuperTopo, how much of this history would ever see the light of day?

We all know there's much much more to be told on this topic.

One thought about ec's post:

ec said

Croft showed-up at Sunrise Mountain Sports years ago when we had designs for a new climbing gym/shop. Someone remarked about how tall the bouldering area was (I can't remember the actual height, somewhere between 15-20ft). Croft, looking at the plans and calmly says, "That's about as high-up as I would ever want to go."

We all looked at each other with a WTF look. Peter wasn't joking...

I'd be busting my gut laughing at that. One idea, though. If he wasn't joking, maybe he meant that's as high as he would ever want to climb on plastic in a gym. As in that would be all he could take before he got bored senseless. Just a possible explanation.

Chinchen

climber

Anacortes, wa

Apr 3, 2010 - 01:40am PT

This thread only makes me sad.

Jack Burns

climber

Apr 3, 2010 - 04:43am PT

http://www.archive.org/details/completebachar

Studly

Trad climber

Apr 4, 2010 - 12:16pm PT

The Growler was the topping on the birthday cake! Way to go get it.

Mason

Trad climber

Yay Area

Apr 5, 2010 - 11:55pm PT

Amazing.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Apr 6, 2010 - 12:19am PT

God bless you JB, a great friend and SUPER Climber!!

Mason

Trad climber

Yay Area

Apr 28, 2010 - 01:44am PT

Let's celebrate a life filled with generosity and compassion. One that inspired and enlightened.

MisterE

Social climber

Across Town From Easy Street

Apr 28, 2010 - 02:19am PT

One of my favorites, thanks for the re-bump.

Synchronicity

Trad climber

British Columbia, Canada

Oct 10, 2011 - 04:49pm PT

I liked Caylors idea for bumping old threads so heres a bump for the legend himself JB R.I.P.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Oct 10, 2011 - 05:19pm PT

It is so weird when I see John's name on the front page as the author of a thread... Makes it feel like he is still here with us.

Synchronicity

Trad climber

British Columbia, Canada

Oct 10, 2011 - 05:23pm PT

Like all legends his spirit lives on, I really enjoy reading his words on here. I never met the man but his stories have impacted my life and changed my way of thinking as I'm sure it has many of you. His life helped me realize the things I am capable of if I can control my mind.

climber

Oct 10, 2011 - 06:42pm PT

Dead is one thing. Gone is another.

jschwarz0

Sport climber

Oct 10, 2011 - 09:07pm PT

had to share this about Mr. Bachar.

So its 1984-ish and my first season in the Valley. I can barely climb 5.8, but I am having a blast.
My friend Jorg and I go to climb the first two pitches of Reeds Direct.
I manage to scrape by leading the first pitch (5.8?) and Jorg heads up the classic second pitch (5.9?).

Nodding off at the belay ledge I get scared sh*t-less when a chalked hand reaches up onto the ledge.
Its him...

He says, "sorry, didn't mean to scare you!". (He arrived you see, soundless, no gear clanging about, no grunting...)

So he starts shooting the sh*t, "where you from, what are you doing here, etc...", I was mostly rendered speechless.

So the rope gets tight and off I go on the second.

About halfway up, I am gassed, its hot, I am fat, its a mess.

I look down and there he is about 15' behind me... but there is a giant coil of rope at my feet!

"up rope"
"take"

nothing from Jorg, he must be napping (he will say it was the Merced!).

I do some quick math and realize, when I go, all the rope stretch is going to have me banging off him like a giant greasy haul bag.

So he must see my quivering (or was I dropping a rain of sweat?) and he starts, in a calm voice, giving me instructions on how the crack is various sizes, reach up or back and the jams are better, etc.

Did I finish from his help? Did I finish cause all I could think about was being the guy that killed JB?

I don't know.

RIP Mr Bachar, you were very nice to me that day.

Hofbrau

climber

Oct 11, 2011 - 01:12am PT

This brings back great memories of some moments I spent with JB an Peter. Early 90's climbing at Red Rocks, JB show's up at the Gallery to solo a bit. I talk with him awhile and asked if he wouldn't mind me taking a few shots of him cruising some routes. It was amazing to watch his effortless glide between every hand and foot movement. A real treat and a pleasure to see. He made Fear and Loathing look like 4th class. I spent another few days later on with an old friend of mine, Bill Freeman, to shoot photos of Peter Croft in Josh for his touring slide show. It was up to Peter to do whatever he felt up to soloing and we just set up for what was about come. I came away with the most rewarding photography experience I have ever had. One of the shots I took of him on O'Kelley's Crack was very inspirational to me and I had Peter sign it some time after.

Both of these guys have been icons for me and I am grateful for the chance to have crossed paths with them.