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spectreman
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Mar 17, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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Lumpy has some great routes. Here's a list of classics:
Pear Buttress
J-Crack
Melvins Wheel
White Whale
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
Loose Ends
Fat City to Cheap Date (best route at Lumpy?)
Thindependance to Loose Ends to Cheap Date
Stretch Marks
Pressure Drop
Finger Licking Good
Living Dead
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2008 - 04:47pm PT
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High up on Turnkorner, Sundance, at Lumpy Ridge:
Crack of Fear on the Twin Owls:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2008 - 04:49pm PT
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And speaking of RMNP
The Diamond!
I've only been up it once, via the Yellow Wall.
One of my favorite shots of Layton Kor, cruising those finger locks and long reaches on the Yellow Wall:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
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The South Ridge of Notchtop, a high quality RMNP 5.9:
Entering the crux headwall, up near the top:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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The Petite Grepon:
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Pewf
climber
nederland
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Mar 19, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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Purty Blue Lake pics!
As for Lumpy, I remember sore toes from pasting feet into those flared crystal filled things that seemed to look so splitter from the ground. But I also remember Orange Julius (spelling?) being fun, with some sort of cool hand traverse. I liked Fat City crack too.
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spectreman
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Mar 19, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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Climbers on Casual Route, Black Dagger, Yellow Wall, and D7. George Lowe is the top climber on D7 (I think that's what they did). He did it car to car that day at the age of 70 something?!!!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 19, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Spectreman,
you are soooo busted.
Don't know when you were there but today George is 64.
I believe the car to car part though.
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spectreman
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Mar 19, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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Thanks Ron, That's why the question mark. I couldn't believe he could be in his seventies but I wasn't sure. Pretty impressive even though he is only 64! What a great guy. He was super happy to be up there and was just having a fun outing on the Diamond.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 21, 2008 - 11:37am PT
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From Climbing number 64, January - February 1981
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 21, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 21, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
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From Climbing number 48, May - June 1978:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Mar 22, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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survival-
take note in that picture of all the parties on the Diamond. See how the Casual Route is the only one featuring permanent shade? It's too bad that this is the easiest route on the face, but so it goes. You get a couple pitches in the sun before you traverse into that corner, and then you shiver and wonder what's taking homie so friggin' long to lead that pitch. Possibly it's wet. Likely you are waiting for other parties. Piton Ron's effort over to the left, Pervertical Sanctuary, is a bit harder (sustained but straightforward jamming) but soaks up solar gain as long as it's there to soak. The Diamond Freeway, a link-up involving several routes on the right side of the Yellow wall, is also a good bet for 5.10 crack climbing.
Any way you slice it, the place is rad. I don't even go up there until I see a bit of Canadian clarity sweeping down to push the thunderstorms out in the late summer, cuz it's a long way to go to end up bailing and I've had enough close calls with the lightning for one lifetime. A good strategy for dealing with the likely traffic on such a day is to have a couple of backup routes in mind and the rack to climb them in case someone has beat you to the chosen line. Stuff still falls off up there,
p1, yellow wall
and fighting over one foothold freezing with your partner at a hanging stance is a crummy way to spend a Diamond day.
And then, you look over to the right to see the happy people climbing in the sun on the Red Wall...this is indeed excellent training for the Diamond- same approach, shorter routes, same altitude. I have never climbed there.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2008 - 02:09am PT
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YEAH!! I have been out of town for a week and you guys just rolled it up. It's the middle of the night here, so I'll have to tackle some of that text later. Really got ol' Roy going with posting some ultra cool stuff there. I'm getting psyched but of course won't have time to take in near what I want. Thanks for the great stuff.
B
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 24, 2008 - 02:59am PT
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hey there ydp18s...man, WHAT A PICTURE!...
thanks for the share of it....
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 24, 2008 - 03:03am PT
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hey there tarbuster... say, great pics, too... i did not backtrack enough....
just had seen that SHEER ROCK... sure like that snow-range, though.. .thanks guys..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 31, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
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We had spring warming conditions for the last week or so.
But yesterday we got some snow, so I decided to go out for a tour and a look see.
I skied the seven miles up Wild Basin at the southern border of Rocky Mountain National Park,
A nice place to end the tour is Thunder Lake, at the patrol cabin just under the east face of Mount Alice.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 31, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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Poor visibility yesterday to be sure,
But nice fresh snow and a sweet atmosphere:
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!