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Chris2
Trad climber
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Nov 17, 2008 - 04:32pm PT
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Melissa may be remembering her early days on that 5.6 slab climb over at Echo.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
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Despite efforts to punish myself into enjoying it, most of my slab climbing is remembered unfondly.
Chris...how do you know about my ugly beginnings at Echo...or is that just a lucky guess?
If you guys do WideFest this year, I'd like to try TRing the famous Gristle. It's been built up to mythic proportions. Jaybro, what climb in the gym do you recommend to train for it? }:-)
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Only because you asked...
I saw you crying and was worried about you.
I was over on Touch and Go.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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I was a pretty big ass on that climb. And after it too. Thanks for your concern, but I was really just being an idiot, unfortunately. I guess my memories of that trip have been mostly replaced by the fun stuff. I miss my old partner, Justin Shields (where is he?), now that I'm thinking about it!
I don't know too many climbing Chrisses and knew fewer then. Which one are you?
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Nov 17, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
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Left Ski Track
Hot Rocks
Poodles are People Too
Imaginary Voyage
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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My "rude post" for the day:
Anyone who can seriously propose Heart of Darkness for a top 5 Josh list has obviously never climbed at The Needles. Talk about the miniature golf of climbing. Jeez...
OK, I'm feeling better now...
Cheers.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
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I've climbed at the Needles. Which Joshua Tree climbs should the Needles have made me like more? I should probably go try them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
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Sluggo, age, (and beauty, come to think of it) before... whatever; Scuffy will be leading the Gristle way before me. It would be easy to pro, especially if you had a Rack Caddy™.
Melissa can't go with us, cause she'd run up it on sight, and wonder what the fuss was about.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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" Which Joshua Tree climbs should the Needles have made me like more? "
A great question in response to my silly rant...
How about:
Rock Candy (It's not a continuous crack, but it is kind of Needles like in a way, and very high quality and a bit sustained for it's grade.)
Snake Book (Short, but still long enough to be out of the "miniature golf" category. Very nice clean corner with good but tiny pro like you often have to use at The Needles, plus you have to walk a distance to get to it.)
Black President (Again, the combo of an actual approach, a bolt protected face move to finger locks and gear...)
Such a Savage and Middle Age Crazy offer up Josh's version of the longish pitches of exposed face climbing one finds at The Needles. Of course the hike is too short.
Insomnia. Oh wait. That's not in Josh. Nevermind.
Cheers.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
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So many cool climbs to choose from...
Bird of Fire
Colorado Crack
Bird on a Wire
Feltonian Physics
Cake Walk
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matisse
climber
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Nov 17, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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coarse and buggy
29 palms
popular mechanics(can you tell I like dihedrals?)
heart of darkness (must be a girl thang,cuz I've climbed at the Needles too)
SW Corner
edited to say can I have one more
poodles are people too
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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The official "Big Five" are:
Rubicon
Perpetual Motion
Coarse and Buggy
O'Kellys Crack
Clean and Jerk
A super fun day is to go climb 'em all, preferably where each climber leads all five. A delightful tour of Josh!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Nov 30, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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equinox
illusion
cryptic
saddle rock....I really like that 5.5 or whatever it is. has a sense of adventure
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Nov 30, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
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saddle rock....I really like that 5.5 or whatever it is. has a sense of adventure
Right On
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Nov 30, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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there are way more than five, but some of my fun ones are:
Tip Toe
Touch and Go-definitely
WOTWS
Black Tide
Sail Away
Honorable mention-Split Personality, Rock Candy
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Gotta plug Orange Flake again since Sheep has come up. If you're looking for something different, it's way better than Right On imo, and there won't be anyone else on it.
Always wondered if Space Mountain was good, now it's definitely on the radar.
Another one to file under "hour approach for 20 ft of climbing" would be Hex Marks the Poot out on one of the Astros. Great climb though and there is a second pitch.
Fisticuffs taught me to fist jam but it could use another 60 ft or so.
Sweet, sweet bivy on top of Mental Physics/Lenticular if you want to sleep somewhere remote, windswept, and starlit with your partner.
Every time I drive past Hemmingway I remember the times I saw M Reardon climbing the hell out of it: up Overseer, down Feltonian; up Scary Poodles, down White Lightning...
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Misa
Trad climber
SJ
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Can't argue with anyone's picks. They are all why we go back for more abrasion year after year. This is kind of off topic, but does anyone know the name and rating of a newish bolted route next to Cherry Bomb? Misa (the woefully ignorant as usual)
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Because they all offer different qualities, I can't say I have "favorites" but I do repeat these routes the most : )
* Lady Fingers
* Chalk up another one
* Bird on a wire
* Heart and sole
* Toxic avenger
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tinker b
climber
your local park
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1. illusion dweller
2. dog leg
3. heart of darkness (partialy for the location and the view...it is a bit short)
4. hot rocks
5. caught outside on a large set
honorable mentions
skinny dip
double cross
toe jam
the flake
wanger banger
o'kelley's
those ones up at the white cliffs of dover
gun smoke
run for your life
knight in shining armor
hercules
light saber
uncle so and so's deep sea fish market
rock work orange
equinox
touch and go
ebgbs
figures on a landscape
the creeping jew
and i love walking a long way to get to a climb, i love being out in the desert with noone else around, i love it when the descent is more difficult then the climb, i love my friends who come back every year, i love lying in the sun in the rocks...that is why i love jtree and obviosly we all climb for different reasons and are different people, so of course we would like different things. joshua tree is about loving it for what it is and not comparing it to something else.
if you didn't look through the crack of heart of darkness and see what it framed, and instead just saw how short it was, well then yeah i guess you would be disapointed. indian creek has nice long crack, yosemite is so huge and unbeleivable, but there is magic in jtree that makes us return, and i guess it is how you look at things.
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PRRose
climber
Boulder
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Top five
Figures on a Landscape
EBGBs
Swept Away
Solid Gold
Hot Rocks
Second top five
Such a Savage
Big Moe
Touch and Go
Clean and Jerk
Ionic Strength
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