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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 21, 2005 - 05:25pm PT
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For a slightly different "out there" experience, I recommend a route I route I did (yikes) forty years ago: The (now) regular route on the Needles Eye in the Needles, S.D.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 21, 2005 - 07:46pm PT
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I'm going to have to agree with the Thank God Ledge traverse. I walked like a man, but my wife left her camelback on and fell right off. :( She was way too tired at that point...
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Jan 21, 2005 - 07:53pm PT
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OMG!!, Needles Eye! That's a winner! props for doing that one!
(rgold - thanks for posting the info on the Conns too)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 21, 2005 - 08:14pm PT
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Back when I lived in South Dakota, I used to look at the Needles Eye ... and it looked scary. Years later, at the height of his fame, Hot Henry told of following it, and made it sound scary too.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 21, 2005 - 11:03pm PT
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I think one of the most intimidating looking climbs for the grade anywhere is Geronimo in J-Tree, until someone explains that you can just reach through to the top of the roof!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 21, 2005 - 11:24pm PT
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"For a slightly different "out there" experience, I recommend a route I route I did (yikes) forty years ago: The (now) regular route on the Needles Eye in the Needles, S.D."
No more entries, this one is it! in '83 I was climbing a lot, I did the Zodiac, my first wall as head nailer, I lead the Acid traverse on The last Unicorn, blah, blah,blah. I was never as scared as on the Needles Eye. Where else is the consequence of popping a tiny friable hold over ancient questionable fixed pro going to be a free fall to a cheese grater to a landing on a car in the parking lot?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Jan 22, 2005 - 12:44am PT
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Speaking of the needles (SD), what's the best time of year to go there?
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Marc from Quebec
Trad climber
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Jan 24, 2005 - 05:14pm PT
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Although only 5.7, the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, NH, is more out-there than any other route I've done... Exposed the whole way.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 24, 2005 - 06:30pm PT
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I forgot about the Thank God ledge pitch on rnwf. I didn't know anything about it when I lead that. And it starts out so easy. I was walking and yelled back to my partner "this is a piece of cake" or something like that, and he said "well, place some pro anyway". Then I got to the part that thins down and I was like "sh#t, dude, I might fall here, this is sketchy" as I walked across it fully upright. My partner whipped off it following. (He too tried to walk it too except he's about 6'5", which probably makes it even more off-balance).
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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Bump for good ol' days.
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MisterE
Social climber
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My favorite although only 5.7, Panic Point, Monkeys Face, Smith Rocks Oregon. Climb out of the Monkeys mouth to massive exposure, classic.
Spot on, Bilbo!
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Rick Linkert
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
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Satan's Slab (Boulder) is a pretty wild 5.8 with some runouts
Arches Terrace (Yosemite) 2nd pitch holds your attention as well.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Maybe not the most out there anywhere, hank, but how 'bout that Alice up in Eldo?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I don’t have a photo of the 4th pitch of Knights Errant (5.8) in the Swell -- this one is looking down P2. But I was gripped leading P4 on fragile sandy holds, going farther and farther with no pro.
Late in the day, after we regained the canyon floor, we found that the route’s first ascentionist Paul Ross had been watching us through binoculars on P4. It seems that a previous party got off route in that spot (it’s not obvious) and experienced a horror show on unprotected, terrible rock. Paul seemed surprised or relieved that we didn’t.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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P7 Touchstone
I originally called it hard 7 but many others call it a 9.
First the right wall overhangs, then the left wall overhangs, but every time you reach up there is a good jam, and just enough footholds where you need them.
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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I'd like to add this one to the list... Church Bowl Terrace. Not to be confused with the two other more popular climbs, Church Bowl Chimney or Bishop's Terrace. No, this was a brutal flared squeeze chimney that I've occasionally done after rappelling from Church Bowl CHimney... and it keeps me humble every time. I am too scared to try to lead it and am always thinking, "damn, this is 5.8?!?!?"
Another runner up... Harding's Chimney at Sugarloaf... 5.8 squeeze, run-out, another humbling old school 5.8.
I also am a little embarrassed to admit it, but that first pitch of Traveler's Buttress at Lover's Leap always makes me hesitate at the top through that damn bulge, still haven't found a way to do it without saying, "watch me, i think i'm gonna pitch."
My favorite 5.8 pitches?
p4 of Nutcracker... I know it's borderline cliche to mention it, but I do love that pitch, so varied from some friction moves to jamming and my favorite move on the whole route is pulling through that bulge using a downward hand jam to mantle on!
also p1 of one hand clapping, splitter twin hand cracks, awesome!
also that second-to-last pitch on sons of yesterday, the hero pitch with the laser cut perfect hand crack
cheers,
 doug
p.s. Ed, I definitely hear you on the stemming/chimney pitch of Braille Book. That was one of my first climbs in the valley and I remember I kept thinking, "thank god this isn't 5.9!"
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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oh yeah... fire by trial, damn i sweated on that thing. pure 5.8 squeeze with nothing but featureless flaring sides to keep you honest.
... and bong's away at reeds!!! who could forget? another 5.8 with some wide/awkward stemming/squeeze experience
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